simpletool

Yep he was good to me too. I got 190rwkw on 11psi R33 with std turbo but full exhaust etc. Mine even was a bit strange with s1 ECU but s2 car and we did it via mail but he was very good, answered a lot of questions from me too. Definitely one of the best guys I've dealt with about Skylines. If I lived in Sydney I'd just see him for servicing and everything.

I stick to my ignition curve data - which is not exactly as it appears on the map but easier to understand. It does not explain why it is doing it stock. Cam timing does play a role here. My car even with timing taken 2 degree out (less timing) around VCT change-over gets a kick at ~4800rpm and above. Might just feel flat at it builds boost until 3500rpm, then flat, then cams give it a kick at top end. Normal RB25 behavior see website HKS GTRS maps.

It's the standard ignition curves. The ECU has load maps (actually airflow maps which relate to boost pressure) that go past the stock boost pressure to about 12psi. At stock boost pressure running up the revs (down the rev table) the ignition numbers are roughly : 4000 20 4400 21 4800 21 5200 21 5600 22 6000 22 6400 23 At the highest boost (airflow) ~ 10psi point the maps look more like this: 4000 14 4400 6 4800 4 5200 4 5600 8 6000 14 6400 14 so as you move towards this over-boosted load section of the ECU maps then you get massive drops in ignition timing - hence the slow response. It's called R&R and it's most noticeable around the 4 - 6k revs - it does pick up a lot after 6k. Totally normal for boosted R33, get an aftermarket ECU, SAFC or remap.

It's good for replacing the stock turbo but only if you have th piping, injectors and computer to run it. If you mean how much power it will make then that depends on boost ,cams, tuning and airflow restrictions. Simple answer is 280rwkw.

Pity you don't live in Brisbane or want to post

If you are on stock turbo and want response DON'T go for FMIC - use R34 SMIC. I went from stock to R34 SMIC to Hybrid FMIC and the change in mid-range response was noticeably negative when I went to FMIC. If you are running a larger turbo such as 2530 or GTRS than FMIC makes sense due to the higher flow required. For response I'd run an electronic boost controller set to 11psi, a R34 SMIC, find an R34 turbo for a bit more flow, full 3" exhaust from turbo with metal cat, then get it tuned with Power FC. There is almost 200rwkw. If you don't mind spending a bit more cash then put a GTRS and some cams into it (256 with a touch more lift) - 240rwkw. Then focus on suspension and brakes. Suspension: Lower 1" (no more) Dampers urethane bushes sway bars pineapples change tow to zero front and rear. steering rack bushes get rid of Hicas check your rack ends and tie rod ends - replace it required Rims: 18 x 8 +30 18 x 8.5 +30 Brakes: recondition calipers decent pads (street/track pads) decent fluid - Dot 4 brake cylinders stopper Chassis: foam fill chassis rails and pillars front strut brace (rear not required on R33/34) take as much weight out as you dare and then enjoy.

I think it was a good idea to post all the information up. He clearly stated what was needed to see the difference in the lines. That is what his point was. Thanks for the post. Obviously 20psi is going to flow more than 17psi with or without headwork. As for the intel CPU comparison - I think that more proves the point of what PM-R33 is saying. Some PC manufacturers DO get good CPU's and put them on crap chipsets with little ram and pathetic graphics card and they go slower than a cheaper CPU with good MB and RAM - in this case it would be interesting to see their performance compared as is.

OUCH - one of these housings with a cropped 3071 would make it similar to HKS 2835. BUT I'm not so sure if the nozzle shape of those housings suit the 3071 turbine.

You don't need a torque curve when you've got a power curve - torque is related to power (just power/revs). If it makes the same power at same revs then it's making the same torque. IF it is indeed making those numbers and it seems LESS linear if anything then perhaps it's all in your head. Are you prompting people to say it feels slower?

Don't compare treadware numbers BETWEEN manufacturers. They can only be used as a very rough comparison - best kept to compare between a single manufacturers tyres. I'll say I've VERY happy with my Sumitomo ZIII (Z3). Prob a touch more street than the KU36 but a very stiff sidewall if getting the usual extra load ones.

King springs and bilsteins would be fine. There is an Aussie distributer for bilsteins somewhere on the interwebs. I like my bilsteins a LOT, was HEAPS better than stock.

sweet as 'ey cuz.

Could be the rack end too? I have a lot of play in mine and was told it's the rack ends. I have a HICAS lock bar in it, but they still move about 3mm either way.

11 blade turbine wheel.

Skylinecouple.... did you have the R33 rear housing or the OP6 rear? Alternatively I would want the 3071 with T3 0.82 rear with suitable dump but it's a lot more money. There seems to be a big gap between boost point of 2871 and 3076 though, about 700rpm. Existence: I'd be wary of T2 based 0.64 rear - they can't flow much.

Yeah I've pretty much settled on 2871 based highflow in OP6 housing. Now I'm looking around for an OP6 housing - it's taking some looking that's for sure. A mate had 2 of these about 18months ago....sold both.

Will the larger rear be 0.7 A/R with skyline bolt pattern? I want 230rwkw at about 1 bar or less, I'm thinking a 2871 would get there easier with the slightly larger housing. Is R33 rear housing 0.58 A/R? And where did these 0.7 A/R housings come from? Couldn't they have made them 0.82 or something to flow a bit more?

It's prob the best turbo for highflow. They should a 2871 cartridge into it with the machined housings and you'll make 220 to 230rwkw without killing the turbo on about 15psi.

$3070 is a bit rich. I'd really like a 3071 with 0.82 internal gate rear. I'm thinking that 230rwkw would be really pushing a 2871.

Suspicions confirmed then thanks Munkyboy. You get a price for that kit?

Hi Guys, So has anyone had any experience with the new (I presume) GCG turbo for the RB25? GCG code = XTR-GTST-GT3071R specs are based on cropped turbine garret 3071 in a 0.7 rear housing that bolts up to standard dump. XTRGTST-GT3071R 700177 front = 71.0mm 56 0.50 rear = 56.5mm 84 0.70 Int-Wastegated My fears that this turbo would boost creep like the 3071 with the 0.64 rear housing? Purpose would be for a stock RB25 running 0.9 to 1.0bar. Goal is to achieve ~ 230rwkw with wide power band. Would the 0.7 rear housing be large enough to allow this flow without boost creep or being too sensitive to throttle ? On another note what is the A/R of the stock R33 rear housing?

You opinion on condition of gearbox (since your opinion is all I have to go on)...any issues with box. Must need reco at 200,000km surely !

Indeed copper grease on shims - just a light 0.5mm coating all over the shim. The noise is likely from the shim vibrating against the back of the pad and the shim against the piston (metal on metal vibration). I tried all the other remedies and this works for about 20,000km for me. The copper in the grease stays on the surface even after the grease wears/burns off leaving a lower friction surface. Obvioulsy be careful you do not get grease on the rotor or pad surface (or close to it) - only on the shim/back of pads. And when I say shim - I meant shims

I'm guessing you mean 71mm comp with 56.5mm turbine. I guess you use this on the larger rear housings as the stock R33 rear housing isn't large enough? Would the larger rear housing turbo be suitable for a remapped ECU R33 car if only running 9psi? (currently runs fine on 10psi stock turbo) As a replacement for stock turbo until I get off my arse and get injectors, AFM and powerFC?

On that note does anyone have the larger rear housing they want to sell to me? Let me get this straight the 45v4 is the OLDEST turbo with the larger rear housing found on the VG30 single turbo engine?