No Crust Racing

Yes, can log with Haltech, it will also flash the engine light. Also have a wideband so if it was lean it will know/flag/put it into engine protection and throw codes etc.

New when I did the fuel system upgrades, but I have heard that when switching to e85 you should replace it after a few thousand k's as e85 tends to clean the fuel system out of shit. Can't hurt to grab one as a spare when it goes in.

I've seen videos, but I've never personally fisted a pussy..

No, it wont be that 100% certain the cat is fine.

Haha, nah, it won't be that.

Dont want an additional gauge cluttering the interior. Will get map sensor then just use ECU manager to do some diag runs and review boost. Already have wideband.

Why? Stock regulator is fine at this power was my understanding? 1000cc injectors and 460lph pump.

Whiteline camber bolts on the way, have ,axed out strut tops at around -2.5 up front and wanted a little extra. This part pretty much fits all Nissan's http://www.whiteline.com.au/product_detail4.php?part_number=KCA414 Get them cheaper on eBay. Picked up what I think is an S14 rear sway bar last night, certainly different to my rear sway bar. Sourcing some front end links now.

Waiting on tuner to give me the price he can get the Haltech one, as he gets better prices. Otherwise, any issues with this? http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/151315040163?_trksid=p2060353.m1438.l2649&ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT Probs just grab the Haltech one n the end, but nothing wrong with having a backup plan.

Is there anything special about the Haltech sensor that warrants 3x the price of any other universal sensor?

No extra boost guage, not forking out the many dollars to get the Nismo MFD upgrade and don't like additional gauges. Am sourcing a map sensor now and will go to closed loop when it goes back in for cams and springs. Appreciate the feedback

Sorry if I misunderstood? Haltech is the only Map sensor in the car, it controls a mac valve connected to both waste gate actuators. Not sure if I'm missing something else here?

lol, deep breathes 1) Yes. 2) He said it's best to have the 3 bar sensor but that we can tune past it and see how it goes, I guess this is part of the answer. 3) No, but I'm certain the car would have only had the IAT sensor leak (small), if at all, as the response and power both on and off the dyno after the tune was solid. I only started checking for leaks as I felt the difference in the car. The big leak was the gasket between front turbo and TT pipe connection.

Yep, It was tuned on the dyno at 24psi, on his gauge and using my onboard wideband as a cross reference. The anti lag is just a couple of tick boxes and were not turned on when it was tuned, it's also off now so it's not a factor. Wouldn't matter even if it was on as the launch control has nothing to do with what we're discussing here (wot performance) and the rally anti lag only fires between shifts after you lift off the throttle. What I'm talking about is how much power it's making/how hard you get pushed back into your seat, during full throttle stints. That doesn't feel consistent currently, but i cant figure out what the variables are. I thought it might have been purely IAT, as i have pods (shielded yes with cold feed from headlight and inner guard, but still not as well shielded as stock airbox) but the other night out and about for a big Chrysler show locally it was hit and miss with similar air temps.

Could be, then again I was told the same thing - as well as I'm just used to the power - when I thought it wasn't right before and then found two boost leaks. Need to get it in the dyno me thinks

When we did the pods/cooler it was happier to make more boost so was tuned a few pound beyond the onboard map limit. Similar to what race pace used to do when tuning beyond max flow of the standard AFMs. Done on the dyno of course. Anyway can get a sensor, not a big deal if seeing max boost is the absolute first step.

Was holding off as the upcoming cam install meant I'd likely need less boost for my goal (500rwhp or so). Can bovs be intermittent​? Am i just clutching at straws there? Disconnecting boost control solenoid not gonna tell me much is it, other than actuators are fine to standard pressure (1 bar I think)

Any easy way to test them? Boost leak test doesn't help as any leakage stays in the intake so total pressure remains the same.

Sounds like you need to go back to Barstow...

Intermittent Performance 34R, -9s, e85, haltech etc etc. Approx 350rwkw at 24 or so psi. Have recently fixed 2 boost leaks (front turbo to TT pipe and IAT sensor on back of plazmaman cooler) but am finding that even after this the "punch" is intermittent, sometimes it's there/good, sometimes it's lacking that extra kick at WOT. Using onboard haltech map sensor so it stops telling me anything useful after 21psi. No faults being thrown, car has wideband and oil pressure kit also. I thought it might be intake air temps (pods with an enclosure), as it's been warmer here, but I've had the car feel great and not so great on 27 deg intake temps in the same driving session. Car is going in soon for cams and valve springs, but if there's anything else I can check, I'm all ears. I've boost leak tested the entire intake tract up to 40psi using a leak down tester. The difference feels like when I went from airbox and 21psi to pods, better cooler, and 24psi, which was about a 20kw/100Nm gain. What power are stock GTR bov's good for? Any point in me disconnecting the Mac solenoid for a test?

And this was its last outing... As you can see it's very unsettled, bouncing through corners and being nasty on tyres. The changes mad prior to that day were swaybars. If, after all the above changes, subframe, roll centre adjusters etc, it still sucks I might just go back to stock swaybar up front also like Josh at MCA recommended (picking up an S14 rear bar tonight).

Budget CA S13 Track Car Moving my build thread from NS over to hear as NS seems pretty dead these days. Had the car for quite a few years now, has sat dormant for the last 18mths because I bought my 34 and poured all my time and money into that Current mods/specs. 1989 CA18DET 5spd in secy two tone. 146ks on a stock and original bottom end fresh head gasket and ARP studs. Engine/Driveline GT2560/T28 BB on 17psi/18spi - 198rwkw 3" Turbo Back Exhaust with de-cat Greddy intercooler. Catch Can and Morosso Crankcase evac kit. Turbo Tech Boost Tap - The original and still the best. Adjustable Wastegate Actuator R33 BOV - plumbed back. Grex Oil Filter Relocation Kit BTR Oil Cooler Thermostat JJR Oil Cooler Apexi SAFC V2 Apexi SITC AEM Wideband Air Fuel Sensor and Gauge RX7 460cc Injectors. Surge Tank Setup Walbro 400lph lift pump, Walbro 255lph main pump. Aeroflow fittings and hose. Alloy Radiator "Custom" Semi Solid Engine Mounts. CA18DET Exhaust Cam on the intake side and Adjustable Cam Gears Xtreme HD Organic Clutch. S15 helical diff centre with original crown and pinion to retain better ratio - Solid bushes. Brakes Braided lines all round. S15 Front Calipers/R33 Rear calipers (no handbrake anymore) Ventilated and Slotted Rotors TRW Pads all round R32 GT-R Master Cylinder R33 Brake Booster DIY Brake ducts front and rear. Suspension BC BR Coilovers S15 Power Steering Rack GKtech high misalignment tie rod ends. Nagisa Auto roll centre adjusters Cusco castor arms. R32 FLCA's S15 RLCA's Front Strut Brace ISC Rear Camber Arms GKTech Rear Toe Arms. S14 subframe with reinforcement plates Solid subframe bushes. Whiteline adjustable front swaybar. R32 GTR rear swaybar. Other/Rice C-West Twin Blade Adustable rear spoiler – alloy mounts under boot skin for support. Dry Cell Mounted in Boot with Battery Isolater/Kill Switch cable up front + remote pull. Aftermarket Steering Wheel D1 Quick Release Hub Momo Gear Knob Momo Pedals Auto Guage Water Temp, Oil Temp and Oil Pressure Guages Velo Podium FRP Race Seat with Velo Harness and side mounts. Custom Seat Frame, lowered for roof clearance. Pro Fab Half Cage (dealing with Brad was fun...) 17x8 and 17x9 Volk(Rays) Rims. Federal RS-R 235s R32 GT-R Grill Hektic body kit. Semi stripped interior, no AC etc. big dollar tow strap DIY Front Splitter Soon to be rear diffuser. Currently finishing off the front end suspension work/reassembly Getting some new front end links, changing out GTR rear swaybar for standard s14, car needs to go off to have some exhaust fab done (new hangers etc) then put it all back together and drive it for the first time in like 2 yrs... I pulled it off the road as the last out it was a realy handful to drive (with the new swaybars) and was torching the outside of the tyres. Full history/build is here. http://www.nissansilvia.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=533091&st=0

Can that tool from Amazon be bought locally anywhere?

Can that tool from Amazon be bought locally anywhere?

And that's on an RB head? So that tool will work head on?