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No Crust Racing

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Everything posted by No Crust Racing

  1. No Crust Racing
    Yes, definitely in tears here. You got me.
  2. No Crust Racing
    Still, only 4 cyl to do the work and what, max 2.4L? Vs 3.2L mentioned above. RB just old tech [emoji20] If GTRs didn't look so porn I wouldn't have bothered.
  3. No Crust Racing
    Sad when the Evo is outdoing everyone 0_0
  4. No Crust Racing
    Ok ladies simmer down. Time to start taking bets on the power figure.
  5. No Crust Racing
    I only wanted 500rwhp and I live in Victoria, the land of the bend you over defect for singles. Low mounts ticked the boxes so get f**ked (Still want a full TS EFR setup though..)
  6. No Crust Racing
    And then?
  7. No Crust Racing
    Aggravated/Exacerbated an old back injury, work will be on hold for a little while as I get it assessed and determine recovery time
  8. No Crust Racing
    Ahh, I see too are a bolt stripper
  9. No Crust Racing
    So, some progress and a pic of my shameful molestation of the engine mount bolt. I really should have just taken the k frame out earlier, it was a 5 minute job in the vice with a hammer and multi grips and would have saved me lots of stuffing around under the car. Behold my makeshift rack support system, meant I didn't have to crack any lines for the power steering. Holding the frame up and in place one handed to get the nuts on finger tight was interesting Using some mild adhesive on the engine mounts to hold them together worked perfectly, they held together "just" enough for me to get them in place and finger tight before breaking free again. The new trans mount is noticeably thicker than the old one and I see that the box now sits a bit higher than it did before. I'll have to see if that causes issues anywhere else. The nut/bolt setup on the trans mount is annoying, you have to drop the transmission support out completely, attach the mount to the support, then attach the support to the car again. The bolts have to be threaded from underneath, leaving a nut on top that you need to get onto to stop the whole assembly rotating as you tighten it. The standard setup is a nut with a shaped head/washer that sits against the transmission housing and holds itself in place. Unfortunately I saw there's still a leak coming from the extension housing This is annoying given I am positive I put a brand new oem seal in it when the box was out for a clutch. Is there a trick to getting these to seal up properly? From here I need to try and sort that box leak, finish off some mounts for the rear diffuser thing then it's off to the tuner/fabricator The GT-R is also at the tuner so it's gonna be killerwasps everywhere soon.
  10. No Crust Racing
    Yeah I'm aware of the max limit on 8" which is why it has 235s all round now. I can go larger in the rear but I wanted them square so they could be rotated. If yours last 2 track days and mine have done easily 8 events, I'd say you're using a proper R comp. I'm only using an RS-R (road tyre), It woul be, even the second hand semis I used once were awesome. I considered going 235 front and 255 rear semi's but that moves away from the budget concept. A full set of new RS-RRs is about 650-700 and they last quite well. It feels too serious if that makes sense? Cheers, but hold that kudos until you see the pics in my next post... Also, I have been a hack before, we cut out the brace between the trans tunnel and the sil on the driver side to flat mount my seat to get it lower, we did however put in new lower hat section all the way and stitch it to the floor pan, chassis and sil. I'm not above being a hack when it helps
  11. No Crust Racing
    Been busy here, but chipping away. Used 2 small dabs of adhesive on those engine mounts to keep the top and bottom plates in place but can easily be removed if needed. Worked out I can fairly easily remove K frame without touching rack, got started on that last night. actually not that much too it when the car is already on stands and tools under it lol Disconnect LCA from k frame, Swaybar link and castor rod from LCA so it can just be swung out of the way. Had a fiddle last night with my 9" rims up front, using some washers to space the wheel out to get clearance to the shock. It needs a HEAP of clearance if I wanna run 9" up front and get a 255 on there AND get some camber on there. I guess this means I will need flares and easily 30mm bolt on spacers (or wheels with about +5 to +10 offset) and given I already have some rims I can use in 4 stud and don't want to go 5 stud and need new rotors etc, I might just have to go the spacers route and flares. Unless someone has a better idea? I did also consider a smaller spacer, keep the 8" front rim and just run a 235 or 245 but in a better compound than RSRR.
  12. No Crust Racing
    Or another idea. Could use hub centric 15mm or 20mm 4 stud bolt on spacer and then be able run the rear 17x9 rim i have from the other set of the same rims on the front so I can get 255 on it all round). Seems there's plenty of guys on there using proper hub centric bolt on spacers, it;s non hub centric and slip on people don;t like.
  13. No Crust Racing
    Checked threads, not comfortable running spacer on those. Given how hard it is to find a square set of 4 stud 17x9, any issue with running 10mm bolt on spacers only at the front? Would mean front track was wider than rear, which is not standard. Or could just run them all round, keep track even and make car wider.
  14. No Crust Racing
    Car blew up on the dyno. Nah, Cams turned out to be for R33 CAS (neither seller nor I realised this, woops) it should arrive at Kelford today/tomorrow for modification then be sent back. Expect results next week
  15. No Crust Racing
    Oh damn, that's a big boy version I will stick with my new cams, when they go in, until something blows up or I sell the car.
  16. No Crust Racing
    I thought it was just a head off situation for oil gallery mods or something. I'll just send you my head and you can sort it all Good luck today btw,
  17. No Crust Racing
    Give me the Vcam, thx xoxo
  18. No Crust Racing
    RIP in pieces,
  19. No Crust Racing
    Just put a 3.4L bottom end on it, should help response. Easy.
  20. No Crust Racing
    Part number on those sr mounts plz
  21. No Crust Racing
    Such size, much dose. Wow.
  22. No Crust Racing
    Oh... Goody. They are poly so I thought they'd have some give. Oh well, see how we go.
  23. No Crust Racing
    So, doing my best to make a mess of that nut. Looks like i will either need to remove the rack to get better access to it or drop the k frame out and go from there. Removed the top nut without issue. The problem below is the block on the rack where the hard-lines connect. Stops me getting in there properly. Had a quick look at the passenger side engine mount setup and these mounts are painful as they are multi piece and only one threaded end so you have the get the engine in the precise spot to hold it all in place while you get the nut on. Spare hands might be needed.
  24. No Crust Racing
    Lol I'm not much of a hack Sealing in the rear section combined with the number plate hole should be enough. Started working on engine and trans mounts. Found one mount nut is stripped but i don't need to salvage it or the thread so I'll just get medievil on it. Wait, maybe I am that much of a hack..
  25. No Crust Racing
    Box seal replaced. Easier with an angled rachet spanner. Bolts are all 12mm and you also need cirxlio pliers to remove the shifter. ECU in, noted you can't leave the usb connected because it sits up against the firewall. Car started for the first time in ages. Idles and revs ok. I've already reset the SAFC so it's just a gauge now. Doing this on mobile so can never tell if pics work properly or not. Rotation tends to be an issue. Next job is engine and trans mounts then off to the tuner/fabricator.
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