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No Crust Racing

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Everything posted by No Crust Racing

  1. Bummer, but these old cars need TLC like any other. If it happens only when the car is warm it could be vac line that expands, could be bad sensor (I once had a bad CAS and an O2 that would only play up warm). AFMs with dry solder joints can also play up when warm if they are only just started to go. You need to pop the bonnet and get in there for a look. Dos a boost leak test, get a field services manual and multimeter and test some sensors. If you are not comfortable with those basic testing things take the car to a workshop that knows RBs. Factory ECU? You can buy a consult cable (I think like $100?) and download ECUTalk for free.
  2. I still have the same sensor in the plenum, but the MFD is using data from the cooler, as is my ECU. Check crankcase breather system/PVC etc. I thought restrictor removed ended up with about about 14psi. IF it's only getting 12 and seems a bit rich, any chance it has a boost leak? Easy enough to test and for the sake of knowing, check the cat condition.
  3. I've heard that ping is power so I can guarantee it will make good power.
  4. I'll do it for free, I managed to tune my Silvia and it's also single turbo, how much harder can it be
  5. Must be the temp of the plenum then. I just had an epiphany also. I was comparing your temp to mine, but mine is an R34 and the IAT readout I'm talking about comes from the cold side of the intercooler core. Not a reasonable comparison. I would say your temp sensor is reading accurately if the surface temp matches it, as was mentioned though, it's not doing much with that info. You did mentioned the car was running rich though, does it have any other drivability issues? Check the o2 sensors.
  6. Nice work but bummer bout the box. Are they cheap and easy to replace in an Evo? I thought those 5spds were a good thing? Or is yours a 6spd? I dunno when they changed.
  7. You wouldn't have that problem with a V..... Oh wait. That's shit news, sorry to hear. Least spares are cheap and plentiful. Good time to throw a cam in...
  8. So, excitement. Car has all 4 wheels back on and is basically on the ground. I might even wash it soon. Added some additional bracing/fixings to the rear infill and called it a day. Especially proud of the driver side rear one, used a spare guard liner clip on the plastic tray to make it captive as I couldn't get in there with a nut. Nylock nuts everywhere else. A little flex in it but will do for a prototype. No fins for now as that would require removal and I want it at the tuners and aligners. Still thinking about front spacers, they look gumby compared to the rears.
  9. Yeah I'm pretty sure you guys are all drug dealers and pimps
  10. How long have you been hoping this... Should I be sending you my parts bill
  11. I would buy MCA blue instead of BC if I was doing it again, thye weren't around when I bought the BCs. I have no issues with the BC except they are maybe a bit stiff for a full grip setup. So if you get BCs, pay the extra and buy softer springs as they have to be valved for them at purchase time. Strut braces are cheap, just do it. If the car was fully seam welded, sure maybe don't bother, but on a 26yr old chassis in my case, a little extra bracing for $50 isn't hurting. Which reminds me, I still need a rear brace
  12. Still has pads? Weak source. They should be removed for 1000hp builds... Do it.
  13. Factory core good for 300rwkw+ without issue at all. Might be time to extend/alligator clips and do some more testing in other locations/outside engine bay etc. Any Nissan dealerships around you/import shops that might have a proper consult so you can get a readout from the ECU? You cold also buy a consult cable and use ECUTalk (which I think was free).
  14. Shit has been busy AF. Managed to find an hour last night and finished engine mount install, torqued etc, as annoying as the trans mount. These better not suck because I CBF removing them. Reinstalled all the front end suspensions/rack etc. Put strut brace back on and put oil filter relocater back in place (removed for clearance to driver side mount). Can now move onto the back and just finish that infill section off then get it to the tuner. There's a track day on the 4th of June that I would love to attend for a shake down. . Idea with the tune is simply to hopefully match previous peak power but to fix that big phat torque dip through better control of the inlet butterflies. I am willing to sacrifice top end if we can move more power into the mid range and have a better total area under the graph - Also to have some proper knock protection given it has a fresh head gasket on it, I don't want to be doing that again.
  15. He already checked the resistance he said. Where abouts is the sensor located. If the Greddy is the only way you can read that data, my guess is the calibration is wrong. The car would drive like shit with 50deg intake temps/
  16. Wait wait. I just realised you're US, are you talking Celsius or Fahrenheit?
  17. Yes definitely not right. IAT on cruise will usually be a few degrees higher than ambient, but not 50. That's crazy. Sensor location issues or bad sensor.
  18. It ran AWD at Powercruise I think. They said in one of the Motive vids that it was "sorted" and that was the last I heard about it, sounds like you've got more info on it though.
  19. That's old news and old power Maatouks have it now.
  20. At this power it won't make a huge difference. The Greddy will be fine. Plazmaman is popular here because it's a good product, well priced, and easy shipping.
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