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No Crust Racing

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Everything posted by No Crust Racing

  1. The car needs an alignment anyway so I'd just have it all done at once. It was more about whether the valving will be too firm anyway and I'm wasting my time. In your case that would have been less an issue as you wanted it firmer.
  2. I've got BC ERs in my 34 and I find them to be too firm for the street. Justjap said I could drop the spring rates down to 8/6 from 9/7 without revalving but couldn't guarantee it wouldn't bottom out at the track. Given i will be lucky to track the car 1-2 times in the time I own it and will only be on street tyres, I doubt that will be an issue. For $380 worth of springs, is that worth bothering to try or will the damper just be too firm anyway? Car has to go in for an alignment anyway so there's already labour costs.
  3. Broken all the time, cost 20k in repairs, still loved it. Are you sure it wasn't a GT-R Having a hard time finding good info on what "needs" to be done to an earlier 35 trans to protect it.
  4. A45 is a hot hatch, as cool as they look. Mustang I imagine would be depreciation city. The more I look the more I see why the 35 is such a big deal. There's basically nothing in that price bracket that can match it performance wise and it's still apparently semi comfy.
  5. Been driving it regularly since the tune, went for a blast today too, was good
  6. Hmmm, I've seen a few with "box upgrades" but I dont know enough to be sure of what absolutely needs doing. Clips, pressure sensors, etc
  7. Thanks for sharing, matches a few things I read. I'd need to save a bit more to afford one that new.
  8. Bingo... If there was someone here who had 35 experience that would help me feel comfortable. I have the only 34R here and there's one 35 within 200ks radius.
  9. No hot hatches. Looked at c63 but as with every other bloody thing listed, there's also a list of common faults. Then again, the RB isn't exactly known for being bulletproof either. I did consider putting nicer shocks and clutch in the 34 to make it a bit less harsh to just drive. Its ok when you're on it, but a bit too firm and rough when you just wanna cruise (BC ER coilovers, already got damper and rebound on max soft, and ATS twin plate carbon). Any choice is a compromise in some ways. Maybe that's why the 35 is popular, keep the performance but a bit nicer to live with. It's the box issues that scare me.
  10. Ideally no more than what I can get for the 34, less is better. It's a weekender only, so 2 doors is fine, a bit of go with some tuning potential witj bolt ons, can do manual or auto depending on the auto. Depreciation is something I guess I should consider also. I went back and had a look at the E92, seems people can get just on 300rwkw NA which isn't too shabby. Would be older than the other examples I listed though.
  11. Cheapest is in the low 90s, I won't get that for my 34. That's R35 money also and given the performance difference, not hard to see why they are so popular.
  12. Not a fan of the IS-F, RC-F too pricey.
  13. Pretty ugly, a 2 door version would help.
  14. There's not much else that's got a bit of poke, is newer and comfier, and has a bit of class. I'm not into hot hatches, the TT was a stretch as it was. Lexus maybe?
  15. Sell 34R for something Euro? Just looking at the moment, but what are peoples thoughts on these 3. http://www.carsales.com.au/private/details/Audi-S5-2012/SSE-AD-4247803/?Cr=4 http://www.carsales.com.au/private/details/_/SSE-AD-3914407 http://www.carsales.com.au/private/details/_/SSE-AD-3960289 I realise my 34 will suck the doors off all of those, but I'm looking at what's around for the money I'd get selling that's newer, comfier, quieter, etc. I have the Silvia for track duties/thrashing/that raw feeling etc. The GT-R is kind of in limbo for me so I'm just have a look around. I was warned off the 4.2L Audi V8 and the E92 M3 styling doesn't do much for me. R35s seem too expensive for the age/potential repair costs etc. Also there's nobody here that can deal with an R35s more complicated issues if they did arise.
  16. I damaged mine in the GTR while doing an intercooler install, woops. Are all 34 condensers the same?
  17. He also added: No problem what so ever Dan I’m glad to help, just for a matter of interest Tomei pon cams are 9.15mm cam lift on both and are 8.7mm valve lift on the intake and 8.77mm on the exhaust, that also means they run very large ramp heights or in other words big valve clearances, that says the lobe is lazy and will have more seat timing that inherits a loss in throttle response, just thought I would put that out there.
  18. He also added when I questioned lift. This is the max valve lift you can run for a drop in RB26 cam, we allow for any differences we have seen in head castings as core shift is quite large on RB26 heads. Some other cams on the market may state a little bit more lift but it is more and likely cam lift or they may reduce the base circle, and lift the bucket higher to allow for more lift but then that defeats the purpose for a drop in cam. I thanked him for his fantastic customer service.
  19. He explained: Yes that is the cams, I have stated cam lift not valve lift, the link you sent through is correct for valve lift.
  20. I'm a bit confused as earlier in the email he refers to the cam as L182-A 264-9.2mm cams But L182-A on the site only shows 8.95/8.9mm lift. http://www.camshaftshop.com/products.php?productid=1051 A 10% gain from boost on wards would be pretty tasty...
  21. I said to Josh: Based on your cam recommendations, what would you expect the behavior/power/torque differences to be? He said: It will all depend where you put the cams and start moving them around on the dyno, the L182-A will come on about the same on 110 114 centrelines, you could advance both intake and exhaust and it should come on a tad earlier than you have now with the standard cams just because the extra exhaust flow will help spool the turbos, by doing this you will lose peak power though, like I said in the last email it’s give and take you will trade some bottom end for peak power or peak power for bottom end. Most guys find that medium that works for them. I then said:Would you think I'd be able to match the response but see torque gains from boost onwards? And what sort of increases are realistic with this cam? And he said: You should easily match the response and yes there will be defendant mid-range gains, we normally put the gains in the 10-12% mark for a cam of this size. That's from the expert.
  22. I think we can all agree that what I said was right, there are too many variables to make large sweeping statements. I've shown Josh from kelford my dyno graph and given him a list of my mods and asked him what he thinks the outcome will be so it will be interesting to get his view.
  23. Despite the weird grammar and typos, I think I get what you're saying, less gain from improvement in airflow if it just chokes the exhaust housing/increases back pressure etc. Which is not something I'm disputing anyway? I'm simply saying, as I've always said, that it;s not as simple as CAM A will always get X result and Cam B will always get Y result. Too many variables for the sweeping statements people make.
  24. Here's what Josh from Kelford had to say when I was questioning him. In regards to cam selection, yes you are right in some cases the bigger the cam the further up the mid-range the power will go, picking the right cam for the power level and the application is a must. Centre line of the cam shaft is one of the biggest thing when trying to bring the power on earlier, the L182-A setup intake on 108 centreline and the exhaust on 114 is where I would recommend, and then move them around a few degrees on the dyno to find the power curve that suits you. You should be able to achieve roughly the same response you are getting now with stock cams but an increase in midrange and holding to the red line, you will find the boost pressure will drop because the engine is breathing more efficiently and make similar power as before but on less boost. It’s a bit of give and take though, you get improvements by moving stock cams but from the dyno figure you have sent it did hurt the top end, if it’s a decent increase in power you are after then you will need a larger cam and more it around too suit.
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