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No Crust Racing

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Everything posted by No Crust Racing

  1. OK I have it right in my head then, and acheiving that will be easier with the smaller increase in duration of the Type R vs the Type A. Would need to go to new ECU, plat pro can't do it. Already spoke to Haltech.
  2. No single happening here. Victoria = defect and I just CBF dealing with that headache. Thanks for the info. Am I right in saying the overlap is the issue in terms of losing downlow grunt? So if I were to advance the intake cam further and have the increased duration, could I get the improved response and some improved flow up top? As per the above, So if I were to advance the intake cam further and have the increased duration, could I get the improved response and some improved flow up top?
  3. Thanks for the info, I know too much duration can be an issue at low RPMs, but the question is what is "too much" in an RB26. Is 250 going to be too much or is that small enough of a bump up to improve mid to high rpm performance without losing anything down low or is there no such thing as a gain in the low/medium/high and anything you do is just moving the band left or right and that's that. Who else has used Type Rs?
  4. More capacity too which makes it a tougher comparison, but thanks for the input.
  5. We're not talking Type Bs here for anything, R or A, max.
  6. Any before and afters? What setup?
  7. You fund it, I'll do it. Again, just want to talk about cams
  8. We're already heading away from my question, which is about Type R Cams, and maybe A, results in terms of response and mid range
  9. Sorry I don't follow? I thought we'd all agreed that -9s were relatively responsive? Or is this a lead in to telling me to go single I'm in Vic, not happening. I'll try Simon, cheers.
  10. Theory is nice, but I'm keen on numbers and yes I realise how they are dialed matters also. I see most people just go Type A or B, but many have gone from A/B back to stock with much better response/mid range as a result, but without knowing how they were dialled intiially (for mid or top end etc) it's hard to confirm why that result was achieved. That said, can a Type A be dialled primarly for response/mid range, but still benefit the top end due to the increased duration? I'm very cautious of lowering dynamic compression and making the off boost drivability even worse than a little 2.6L in a big car already is.
  11. RB26 Tomei Type R Cams - Results? Trying to find some concrete info around the expected gains from these cams, 250 duration, 9.15mm lift. I've got a -9 setup car on e85 with all the usual stuff, including cam gears, dyno below, I'm mostly interested in response and low to mid range torque, though some more top end wouldn't be a bad thing, I just don't want it at the expense of low to mid range, it's a street car. Has anyone personally used these cams in a similar setup car and what was the result? I had a hard time finding anything solid in the dyno thread, as I'm interested in specific before and after from the cams themselves. I realise the notes around these talk about them being used on stock cat cars to minimise backpressure, I don't have a stock cat and I have full 3.5" from the merge.
  12. I didn't realise the transfer case had a filter in it, is that a serviceable item or only done when the case is pulled down?
  13. Don't have the mirror triangles. See pics of carpet, has been cut up on the tunnel under the dash and has some small blemishes under the drivers mat.
  14. Great pics, except that ugly Supra. List looks good to me. When doing timing belt, replace the idler and tensioner bearings also. Worth looking at Cam and Crank seals while you're there if they have never been done. If you're paying for labour, you might as well get the whole lot done and save yourself paying twice.
  15. Hmm, does the cut edge have to be resealed?
  16. Cutting fibreglass I recently bought these 2 pieces, both will need cutting/adjustment to fit. What's the cleanest way to cut fibreglass to minimise cracking etc. The larger air guide in particular has a nice finish already, but is quite thin. .
  17. Is there a turbo and e85 in that "everything"?
  18. When do the cams go in?
  19. Also have this oil cap, brand new, I didn't like the colour - $30 posted anywhere.
  20. Bump, make me an offer, stuff is just taking up space and will eventually get binned.
  21. That's them. They bolt to bottom of splash guards. You run them if you don't have a VSpec splitter.
  22. R34 GT-R/S13 Shed Clean Out Removed due to upgrade/replacement. Haven't fully separated/cleaned things up yet. Can take more pics as needed. R34/RB26 - RB26 Stock manifolds - $20 - Stock manifold shields - $10 - 3" mid pipe with flanged stock Nissan cat and basic mid muffler into 3.5" rear pipe/muffler section with cannon. Can only see a Jasma label on it - SR. Came of 34, but will fit 33 with minimal mods - $250 - R34 Standard fuel pump. $40 - R34 AFMs $80 - Standard Cam Gears. $10 - R34 Non Vspec air guides for brakes. $200 - R34 GTT Console ilid skin, mint condition. Hinge and leg no good though. $80 - R34 GTR Intercooler, with IAT bung - $150 S13 - Free/6pack/whatever - S13 CA18 Viscous Centre and 6 bolt shafts. - Carpet - Roof lining, - Lots of interior plastics - Interior light - CA18 Cam Gears - CA18 Intake Cam - CA18 AFM and plug. - a TPS - Washer fluid bottle and neck - Standard space saver. - CA18 carbon canister - Rear toe arms - Rear camber arms - Leaking power steering rack that includes the rack ends (the rack ends might be S15 ones as I used an S15 rack and some bits from the S13 rack ends/tie rods. I can assist with fairly cheap postage or pickup is fine. Make an offer, take a bulk lot for cheap, just want it all gone. Located in Wodonga.
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