No Crust Racing

Going to go pods on the 34, was looking at pod shields but can't find anything that allows usage of the stock snorkel. Has anyone found/had one made? Alternatively, was looking at buying this and modifying it. How had would it be for me to cut a neat hole in that? I'd then stick a small rubber flange on the whole for the snorkel to sit on. http://www.jsai.com.au/index.php/online-store/nissan/r34-gtr/nissan-r34-gtr-cold-air-box-detail

Our oldest turned 3 in April and our second arrived in May. I know those feels 0_0

Twin scroll single would be ideal, but not in Victoria.

I already have these and they were next to new. I dont need more lag.

Studs are easy. I'll do those myself. I heard about the new dyno, but I'd rather stick with my tuner. You want this exhaust or what

Too scared to crash it given the $$$ lol All good. A few rice mods and a bit more power and maybe a track day and we'll be right.

So what we're saying is I need studs...

I did a couple of brisk launches just to test and it seemed fine to me.

Haha, I will be for the next tune if I do this. Even still, I was surprised to find how little, as in almost zero, front drive was being engaged through the hill run. More an indication of how much harder I could have pushed grip wise. It only has ATR Sports on it, but they're 275 so even if they're a cheap tyre, there's plenty of it. Probably on par with a half decent 255 which is all my old one had on it.

The extra power is just a nicety and something to keep me happy. The pods is the same, make it noiser and more dramatic/fun to drive. Same as removing the mid muffler, more noise, more fun. I can get a video when it dries out enough for me to get it out of the shed and drive it. How power feels from one person to the next is relative, 330rwkw in a 1500+kg car isn't that much. Some of the "drama" is also lost purely because the 34 hooks up so well. I could put cheese cutter tyres on it and do mad skids everywhere and it would be more exciting to drive lol

Similar to me then. N1 manifolds, HPI 3" dumps into 3.5" front pipe and 3.5" the rest of the way. Same ECU. Full boost seemed laggier to me though. I will do some proper plotting to confirm though. Yes I realise -9s are bigger/laigger and also that larger ports in the N1s will not assist response.

What manifolds and exhaust have you got? Do you know what your cam gear settings ended up at? What Ecu? When's full boost?

If you made 348 on -7s, is it not reasonable to think -9's could make 10-30 or so kw more? Genuine question, not baiting etc. I realise different dynos, different days etc.

Given what was said about the position on the comp map etc, I can't imagine it would make more than 350 or so, but then again you made that on -7s... Tuner did say his dyno tends to read a bit lower than the other locals. Cams help top end a fair bit. Seems head studs are a wise investment though. Saves replacing the whole gasket which is a flamin mongrel of a job in a CA, so would be heaps worse in a 26.

OK Cheers. Understood. and thanks for the detailed info. Hopefully dumps should be up to task, they are the 3" HPIs into 3.5" front pipe and 3.5" all the way from there. Has anyone else pushed -9s to this level or does everyone stop at 22 because that's where they stop making wasps.

And how many millions of GT-R taxed dollars is that lol Understood, and thanks again. So realistically with the current gear I have, all I can monitor is intake temp, maybe EGT, and that's it? given I don't have a way of measuring turbo shaft speed. Sorry what was that in reply to?

Nice, cams or stock?

Really useful, thanks. So from that I can infer that it will "work" but with a notable increase in required shaft speed to maintain the pressure ratio for a given airflow requirement - if the engine is actually ingesting that many lbs of air per min. So, test it and see... What sort of behavior would I be looking for to know it's unhappy? I imagine I'll have more resistance to surge due to the twin turbo pipe mod, or do you mean surge differently? Again, only relying on SAU search, but I can't see that mentioned, I tried searching for 350, head lift, head gasket etc. Happy to be proven wrong, but ultimately, even if I was told, I didn't remember, and asking the question in a more visible location isn't going to hurt anyway. What did you make again on 24?

I should've specified, not boost specifically, cylinder pressure. No I have not been informed numerous times that 350 was the magical number for that, nor could I find it when searching. SAU search sucks copious cock. I'm not looking at pods for power, just the fun factor when driving it (noise). That question was more related to any negatives I might encounter, if I can deal with heat management well enough. Something like, I ran K&Ns at that power and they collapsed, etc. Has anyone spun up there -9s to 25-26?, again, if I could find that easily, I wouldn't ask. Throwing on the dyno means dropping the front shaft, getting it there for a touch up tune, then seeing what happens. It costs me less in time and effort to at least see if anyone else has done it. I may find that they just shit the bed and pump bulk heat after 23-24psi, I don't know, I've never run these turbos and don't know what if any relevance the comp map has to my question. Hence seeking the experience of others.

Only stock bits and the cat back and front pipe left now. RB26 Stock manifolds - $80 Stock manifold shields - $20 2.5" into 3" front pipe, with flex pipe. $180 3" mid pipe with flanged stock Nissan cat and basic mid muffler into 3.5" rear pipe/muffler section with cannon. Can only see a Jasma label on it - SR. Came of 34, but will fit 33 with minimal mods - $500 R34 Standard fuel pump. $50 R34 AFMs $100 Standard Cam Gears. $20 Twin turbo pipe. $80 Rays vinyl wheel stickers, full set. - $30 Stuff will go cheap, just want to clear up space. Also have plenty of S13 stock bits left over also.

Car makes a bit over 330rwkw on 22psi on e85 - R34 with 86ks and healthy comp. Has all the usual supporting mods, big exhaust, cam gears, twin turbo pipe mod, Haltech etc. Was considering bumping boost to 25-26psi or so for a little bit more punch, but don't know enough about how to read comp graphs to tell if there's any point. My reading of this implies that more boost won't actually equate to much additional air flow? Is that correct? Have also heard about heads being lifted at this boost, is there any truth to that and what are the symptoms? coolant in the cylinders/oil or vice versa? I can put ARP studs in if necessary. For what it's worth, car runs very cool with oil cooler and vented bonnet and guards, oil and water temps are always very stable. I haven't seen above 85 or so deg water/oil temp and 650 deg EGT with spirited driving through the hills. Intake temps are good also. Was also contemplating switching to those 65mm K&N pods that bolt directly onto the AFMs and running an enclosure, possibly modded to allow me to retain snorkel. This is purely a rice mod for the noise and fun factor, but is there likely to be any power loss in the real world? I do have the vspec intake temp readout on the MFD.

Oh wow they look amazing. Cost? Can they be ordered for other Rs? EDIT: Found the thread, talk to Tim

Centre console arm rest/lid.

Armrest?

Armrest? I don't even need the leather, I just need the plastic frame, hinge and legs.