No Crust Racing

I don' want to go out and buy another 8x 20L cans and I doubt I could borrow that many from my mates, I only have 2. I'd still be transporting 200L of fuel inside the car.

I wasn't planning on removing the drum from the car, the bung is pretty serious so I can't see it leaking when the drum is next to new, it also can't be filled up past the bung anyway when on its side.

My car is a weekend only 2-3 times driven a month. I bought some ethanol treatment for condensation so I'm more worried about the safety of transporting a drum full on its side in the back of the Territory. I also bought and e85 tester so I'll be able to at least see what the content is.

New questions. I'm reading a lot about storing drums on their side, and with fuel covering the filler hole on the inside (so tilted down if needed) to reduce the risk of moisture? I also see that a full drum should not be transported on its side, which I was planning to do in the back of the territory in the near future. No go? Also no no to have that much fuel in the back of the territory also. I'll be in an e85 location for work next week and was going to fill up. 100ks plus each way.

My turn. S13 Track car with R33 front and rear calipers and rotors, braided lines, brake ducts up front, and BM50 MBC. I've got some near new TRW Lucas pads in the front (having come from A1RM back in the day that ate the slots out of my rotors...)but can't say much about them yet as the last outing I had I was convinced the pedal was spongey due to a leaky caliper. I've since removed that and gone 33 rear calipers so that should not be an issue any more. The current issue is I can't seem to get the TRW Lucas rear pad for R33 calipers. I bought some on eBay, the member who I bought them from on here can chime in if he wants to, but received an inferior pad due to supply issues (not his fault). So I either need to source some TRW lucas rear r33 pads somewhere else, or move to all new pads. Was looking at Initma SR and the new QFM Z88 (which I can get for $200 for a full set). Car is just doing 5 lap sprints of a small DECA facility (170km/h top speed and only 55-60sec laps) and will get back down to Winton soon for a test and tune/sprint day. Thoughts?

Another to confirm and free bump for a nice car.

To many feels in here and not enough logic. Back to original topic, Skylines in 2 years. Yes there will be some. </thread>

I have no idea where the off the ground part comes from.

I fully agree with this and that's coming from someone who has owned a 33 GTsT, 33R and now a 34R. I don't drive mine daily, so I'm a little different, mine is just a weekender but I always wanted a Z tune replica and while I know there are heaps of cars locally that could smash me in a straight line (there' sa lot of boosted V8s and Ford 6s here). None of them look anywhere near as good or handle as well in my opinion. I've owned RWD, FWD, AWD, 4, 6 and 8 cyl NA and FI and my 2 most favorite cars to drive are the Rs. The 33R was a daily, but I feel like they are wasted as a daily (I also ended up with 1 point left...). I feel like the age/cost of the car lends itself much more to being a special occasion/weekend only affair. There are much better dailies to be had for far less outright and ongoing cost. I would also say there are way better track car options. I have a Silvia and it punches so far above its weight and costs peanuts in comparison to my mates big RB cars. For track I would be going Silvia or Evo.

7s.

No expensive either. http://www.vpw.com.au/Category/Index/473149

Found it. http://lucasoil.com/products/fuel-treatments/safeguard-ethanol-fuel-conditioner-with-stabilizers

Ethanol stabiliser? Also, Anfanee, the issue with water is that it makes the flex sensor artificially read higher, which may then add/boost timing. I've watched some interesting tests on YT showing how those flex sensors work.

I think I'm the special one for that wandering passage of text. - Does Cheetah have any better corrosion protection over United E85? - When talking corrosion, I was under the impression it was the water content that causes issues - water content through absroption, is this correct? - If so, how much if an actual problem is that for a drum stored off the ground in a shed, sealed up? - Does that also become an issue for remaining fuel in the tank given I will only drive this car a few times a month?

I've got a Haltech and a Flex setup on an RB26 (-9s, 330-340rwkw or so on e70, about to have a final touch up on e80/85 now the tank is drained). I'm weighing up whether I get my own drum and store United or just buy a drum of Cheetah Race fuel e85. The e85 my mates have been getting from united is consistently 80-90% and the car will take whatever anyway. The car only gets driven a few times a month at most, it's not a daily and is not a track car, it's just a weekender. My concern is more around supposed info pertaining to corrosion. Cheetah claim they have additives in their fuel that prevents/inhibits corrosion and that pump fuel does not. I thought the corrosion issue with e85 was more to do with moisture in the fuel? So, stored correctly, air tight, off the ground, that should not be an issue? Though that doesn't help me with what's in the tank I guess. I should add, i can buy it in the drum locally, but I have to travel 40mins or so, or wait til my mates are going to get some to fill my own barrel. Then are no pumps with it here.

I don't have any experience with the Bosch plugs, I do have NGK Iridium in the track car though and they've been fine.

That's all that's in mine Chris, I plan to just swap them out every service or 2 given how cheap and easy to get they are. No misfire issues with spitfires and those plugs at 330or so rwkw. For a street car they'll be fine.

I see. And is there an easy/safe way to get all 4 working or does it require bulb holder changes etc?

I've read so many conflicting opinions on this. My car appears to have untouched original wiring to the tail lights and only the outer lights and the boot lid light act as brake lights. So either that's factory or my car had a very good re-wire done. I also read a lot about lights being modified at compliance. I know this can be modified, but what' the standard factory configuration? Lastly, what's the easiest way to have all 4 lights operating as brake lights as there appears to be mixed views on this as well ranging from piggy backing off the brake light wire to changing bulb holders and bulbs in the inner light. Thanks in advance.

Tomei Dumps and Manifolds sold.

You know you want to throw me some offers and buy lots of this stuff at once and get a deal. As much as I want to clear up space in my shed and put some money back in the bank

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Price drops, buy buy buy. Removed due to upgrade/replacement. Haven't fully separated/cleaned things up yet. Can take more pics as needed. Complete hot side, manifolds to muffler including. - Tomei Expreme Stainless Manifolds - $500 - RB26 Stock manifolds - $80 - Stock manifold shields - $20 - R34 BB Turbos with drains and actuators (80ks on these, some shaft play, can take video/open to inspection) - $SOLD - Tomei V1 stainless dumps (v-spec compatible with EGT port). $500 - 2.5" into 3" front pipe, with flex pipe. $180 - 3" mid pipe with flanged stock Nissan cat and basic mid muffler into 3.5" rear pipe/muffler section with cannon. Can only see a Jasma label on it - SR. Came of 34, but will fit 33 with minimal mods - $500 Or take the lot/most as a complete system and make me an offer. R34 PowerFC LJetro with hand controller (with tune for stock injectors/turbos) $700 HKS EVC6 - $400 R34 Standard fuel pump. $50 R34 AFMs $100 Standard Cam Gears. $20 Twin turbo pipe. $80 Rays vinyl wheel stickers, full set. - $30

Found a factory one locally new. Still need those clips and from what I can see you still need to drill two hole in the bar, albeit out of sight. The clips appear to slide on from the back and provide the captive nut for the screw.

Yes please