No Crust Racing

Here's an old example from 2006 lol

Real quick, complete with sparks from the wheel well. As an early 20s NFI home mechanic, bricks were shat lol Part of why I am so appreciated of SAU and did my own tutorials for it etc, the info I gained here allowed me to be a less shit mechanic.

Reminds me of the time my mate and I both thought the other had done up the front passenger calipers bolts when we'd had them off t paint them on my first 33.... until it came off at 60 and jammed the wheel to a sudden stop....

The egine, box, and rear diff will all comfortably handle 360rwkw. Turbos won't like it though and as Piggaz said, the front diff may not be happy if you are pushing the car often, definitely avoid 4wd donuts. The rest of it will be quite happy there, with the exception of cooling as the twins, being pushed hard, will be quite hot so you would want to keep a close eye on intake temps and EGTs just for safety. Will be fine for the street unless you Fast and Furious everywhere, but you would want to limit consecutive hotlaps at the track (though with the current ambients you will get away with it for a while). Enjoy

Might be the best -7 result seen here? The head will play a big part and will also be why the boost tapers off up high, that's a sure sign the turbos are not able to keep up wit hthe head flow. More than enough for you for now, don't kill yourself, here or over there

Get cam gears before tune. Trust us.

I told you, you can sell the twins and do a cheap GTX single easily enough using used parts. 330 on -7s will be zippy, but not scary. Especially after your ride in Paul's car. I had 380 and more torque than you will make and it felt like it needed another 100kw to be honest. You have all the other bits to throw a cheap single on and make 400+ easily enough.

On E85? No more than 340-350rwkw, but as mentioned I would not expect turbos to last. That's more -9 territory. 330rwkw is about where I'd aim as a max on ethanol, the engine and head will want to make more but those -7s wont be loving life.

I joined in the mid 00s, and I'm still here 0_0

We're agreed then

lol, big difference between living on a property vs living on a farm. Farmers farm things, animals, crops etc. I just happen to live on a chunk of land that is fenced. Certainly more work than a house block though. Enjoy the festival.

Not really that sad, they are just "tools" to get a job done. I have 2 chainsaws, not because I love chainsaws or I'm anti trees or want to cut everything down, but because I need 2 chainsaws to do my job of collecting firewood efficiently. You can argue that I should not be cutting up fallen dead trees because insects and critters could live in there etc etc, but the bottom line is, it's my property and I'm allowed to so it's my choice. He has sheep, foxes eat his lambs at an alarming rate, so he removes those foxes from his property. His property, his choice. My comment about his reaction was just a laugh about two different cultures meeting, I wasn't raised on the land so my exposure to rural living is very different to his. Not right or wrong, just different.

He's actually a geological engineer for a mining outfit, very smart and very friendly and helpful. He just happens to have been raised in a farming community where "pests" are shot. Maybe go for slightly less broad strokes with that brush of yours

Finish... lol that's a good one.

Oh man, the neighbour has enough guns for everyone. His face when I said I owned zero guns and had no interest in getting any was very obviously one of "but... what do you mean?!" whilst trying to be polite lol

Well I sold my GTR and other house at good times I think, now I live on 12 acres over looking the valley

You can all thank me for changing the tone of this thread into something more enjoyable and constructive.

Are you me?

If you go that way, The engine in the S15 is worth more out of the car, trust me. Building 2 cars simultaneously is always going to be a tough gig. If you have to spread your time and money I would be inclined to tune the -7 setup, flex fuel, and leave as is with a comfortable 450rwhp or there abouts. If you want a bit more fun, sell the twin setup and just go a basic garret GTX single setup, they can be done quite cheaply with good results and not need anything else. Then you can just drive it and enjoy it, not worry about brakes/box/diff as they are all fine at that power. Finish the S15 and enjoy that, to be honest, given what the S15 will be capable of making, you are going to need a very decently powered GT-R to match the power to weight of the S15. I had the same issues when deciding to stick with S chassis or not, in the end, I can go much faster for less $$ in the Silvia and I wanted to buy a big property so that was the compromise (sell GT-R).

Just "Capital" "Venture capital" is when you're funding start-ups and doing things like Angel Investing etc, usually done by private equity firms but can be a single person in some instances. Maybe get some finance, buy Piggas car, put his running gear into your cleaner shell. Put your little 2.6 and stock box into his shell and sell it off to someone with lower standards then clear out the finance. Or just be happy for now with the baby 2.6 and maybe a small EFR detuned to make it safe? Call it a DON Mini build?

Mega builds cost mega bucks. Maybe ring around and see if any of the big workshops want to get involved and sponsor you. Being associated with big build GT-Rs is good for their business anyway. If that doesn't work out, just go mid spec on the little 2.6 for now and try not to race any fast cars. Don't forget, don't flog it with -7s on it if you're running high boost and when it comes time to tune the EFR, keep the torque low in the midrange until you've got some decent rods in it (same thing all the EVO guys do with their EFRs until they get around to building a good motor). Maybe it would be cheaper and easier to buy Piggaz car?

Well you can always stick with a 2.6 or 2.8 and just go for big revs to make up for the little bottom end? You will definitely need good rods and bolts for that, probably a billet girdle too so you can eliminate any risk of crank walk at high revs. Piggas car is a great street car, but it's not a DON mega build car that will destroy all, but he didn't build it to be that. If that's frightening at the moment, then maybe start with a DON "medium" build, get used to the power first and build a second engine for later. That way you can get away with a little 8474 and a standard gearbox until you're ready for a full DON mega build.

A DON mega build is going to be well over 500kw though, there's plenty of 500kw GT-Rs so to smash them hard you will really need much more and a 2.6 with stock rods just wont take it. Even PJs little SR powered S13 is making 1000hp and it's only a 4 cylinder. You can re-use your head on a 3L+ block, doesn't take much work to fit it. Don't bother with 2.8L, if you're already spending the coin to do it properly, might as well get as much capacity as you can to feed a monster turbo. The RIPS guys in NZ make some nice 3L strokers (3.2 and 3.4L) and sell them as a complete bottom end or long block, although if you're going DON spec you'd be best giving them a call and having them make you something custom. SPOOL make some stroker kits, but they're off the shelf kits so might be a bit basic for this build. I'm sure TRP would be happy to spec up a decent bottom end , You can also work with Maatouks or CRD, both of which are known for big HP drag spec GT-Rs and I'm sure they'd be happy to be involved in a mega build, neither of which are running a motor with a 2 in the start of its litre size. This year might be a bit soon given you will need an engine build to dominate, but maybe 2020 would be the go to take the completed car out and show everyone what a DON build is really capable of? http://motivedvd.com/motive/drag_battle_and_gt-r_challenge/

Well under what you will need for a DON mega build. Stock rods and more importantly the tiny stock rod bolts wont handle Wangan levels of power or revs. Big twin scroll turbo = big torque which will hurt the rod itself (bend/snap). Big revs, Wangan style, will stretch the little stock rod bolts and then all sorts of bad stuff happens. There is no magic number for when this will happen. Should be fine on -7s/-9s with your tide me over setup but people have run into issues even using dinosaur -5s so you will be well beyond that point even with basic medium size 8374 or something similar. For the turbo size/power you're going to need for a DON mega build, you really need a 3L at a minimum with good rods/rod bolts. Even in my little SR, I've gone Nitto I Beams and ARP CA625+ rod bolts and my power and rev goals are much lower than yours. That combination was under 2k landed, so nothing in the grand scheme of a mega build.

-7s wont last long at that power, if they actually make it without a dodgy dyno setup. That's well outside of the good efficiency islands for -7s and will over speed the compressor. You can look that info up yourself, a bit of simple math will show you the facts. Please keep in mind that if the comp wheels go, there's a genuine risk of ingesting ceramic dust/bits into the engine and lunching the bottom end. Should be OK for hits on the street, but best not to load the car up for long periods (say on a race track or hot lapping it at the drags). Some additional engine bay cooling can help too, the rear turbo is at the greatest risk. I assume that being an all out DON build, you will be removing the baby 2.6L with stock rods for something good anyway, but would be better if you can remove it in tact and get some good money for it for the proper engine.