No Crust Racing

Your bank account must hate you lol

OK the last post made me realise I had kinda forgot about all this, quick update on the last 5-6mths. - Took a few months of and got house projects done while exploring employement options. - Got a new job, still in tech but not fully, wide mix of stuff in the PD. - Bought an FG XR6 as the LandCruiser was too thirsty as a daily lack of safety bothered me. - Kept that a few months while I decided what to do with work, sold that and the Landcruiser after starting the new job. Got a Prado as that ticks all the boxes between both the others, has a few mods. Had that for a couple weeks only. - Have been out exploring/learning the car and 4wd in general, has been good. - Got a chainsaw, 2 actually, cut and split a lot of wood, kind of enjoy it lol, Learned how to cut properly from a local group, learned how to sharpen chains etc, no loss of limbs yet. Built wood shed to accomodate, will build bigger one in spring. - Got a couple sheep, awesome mowers, but they escaped a handful of times. Did some fencing, escaped some more lol, got fencer coming this week for mad fencing work. - Lots of house projects, upgrading, replacing, maintenance etc, learning lots. Had all the girls birthdays/parties etc. - Life has been busy AF. So cars - Prado has deluxe winch bar, BP51 2" lift kit, recovery points, KO2s, dual batteries, onboard compressor and some additional plugs in the rear, good GB, snorkel, side steps, etc. Will get some more mods moving forward. Started with some LED high and low beam upgrades from Stedi, need to be aimed a little better I think and rotated to get a nice beam pattern. Also have panel filter on the way (dry), will do an airbox mod at the same time, exhaust priced (approx 2k for full system - coated extractors, twin 2.5" into single 2.5" with high flow cats etc). Might also got a basic tune and that would be it for power/economy, car is petrol so a bit heavier on fuel than diesel. Made the call to stick with Petrol after reading all the issues with Diesels, sooooo much less hassle with maintenance/repair, caring about fuels/EGTs, noise, smell, etc. Petrol is much nicer to drive (I test drove Jeep, Pajero, Fortuner, Older/Newer Prado etc before settling on this). Beyond that, basic winch, stereo upgrade to modernise/add front camera/sensors, might get a basic roof basket/platform and I have my awning from the 80 to put on if I get there. Some pics of the beast and a few spots we've been exploring added below. Wanting to mod has made me keen to get back in to the Silvia so I spent some time in the shed recently "starting" to unpack and sort things, it's a brothel. Car has been started a handful of times and that's it =\ Trying to get motivated again.

That's about normal boost response for those size of turbos I thought? Especially when you have a half decent head. Remember manifold pressure does not equal lb/min of flow, it just means the turbos have pressurised the intake to that level. What's more important is rear wheel torque at 3900pm or wherever you're wanting to measure from. My head was stock, but I had cams and gears and it made about 20psi at 38-3900 rpm on it's way to 24-25psi, which it almost held to redline. As per my opther comments, the turbos were at their limit and being outflowed, just like yours (mine were newer spec -9s with the better centre cartridge). Traffic light grand prix is fun, just don't blow 3rd

Mate you're keen. Yep, still here. Was just getting engine bits organised today. Have been busy with new house and daily.

Wise.

Yeah a rub back and another coat won't hurt, especially if you're already set up to do it now. Never gonne come out like a pro on your first go, kudos for having a go.

And each setup does barely a tank of fuel before parked in the garage again...

Glad to hear you're enjoying it. Given it makes less power than mine did, and mine asn't fast, I would also avoid the motorsport section if you plan on trying to win anything. Remeber the types of builds people are doing these days, show and shine is a good choice for you. The thing to remember with GT-R sideways action i to not lift the throttle, you need to keep the power on to allow ATTESA to do the best it can to sort the issue. When you snap close the throttle in a panic, the power stops being deliverd to the front wheels and the car grips up and follows the direction you have the wheels pointed. Seen plenty of GT-R's spear off the track directly into the sand because people wind on too much lock trying to correct oversteer but don't pin the throttle. The other big GT-R issue is understeer, they're a bit heavy over the fronts, you will need to fix that with suspension setup or throttle control to bring the rear around. We're ready for onboard and dyno vids now thanks.

What major issues are you running into painting it? dust? runs? Colour looks nice.

T88, 2.5k RPM powerband Wangan style.

We'll be flat out getting him to put fuel in it I reckon...

Because maybe twin 9280s for GTR festival?

Twin EFRs now?

I love the way it looked.... moving.

Ancient video is ancient...

Deets?

That might be a bit greedy A mate is much happier having sold his first 33 for a rougher more modified higher k's example, enjoying himself much more.

No roll racing videos, power cruise, drags, circuit, traffic light racing, hard parking, nothing... This thread does not deliver.

Artifical lighting and flash always make it look 10x worse. Car looks fully legit to me. Even down to the fact your intake snorkel foam surround is already perishing 0_0 Nissan got it wrong on that material lol I struggle with this car because I would want to drive it all the time to enjoy its freshness, but not ever drive it to preserve its freshness... So I would do as you have done and have two

Bought another car recenrtly, from NSW, and thought I'd better actually clear this question up. Vicroads has no time limit at all on forcing you to move the rego into Victoria so long as it still has current valid rego in another state and you can prove ownership. So says Vicroads about 15mins ago 14 days is a "guideline" they tell me.

Intake/catch can setup intergration looks nice and neat.

Well f**k, I thought you were still working on it. Don't mind me, I'll just be over here with my stock bottom end wasting more money on dailies and doing nothing to my race car.

Why? Benny's car actually runs?

Without cam gears and on a good flowing head it will have cost you some "boost" response, as in how high and how early a boost gauge reads, but that doesn't mean it's lost you on road response. You may well find it similar up to say 60-90km/h but beyond that the difference will be stark. As above the head is just flowing out everythhing the turbos can throw at it. so it will be making as much power as the turbos can make as fast as they can allow it to be made. If you want to improve turbo response, as in get them spinning faster sooner, you want good manifolds and pods, cam gears, and good intake piping.You're chasing 5-8% though realistically. My car had the cast N1 manifolds which I found good, a nicely divided y pipe, which is proven to help, and any dash setup with decent boost should be on pods, we picked up 14rwkw by switching to big pods alone at similar power levels to where you are now. Don't beleive all the BS about the stock airbox being fine, at this power it's a restriction end of story. That was with -9s which are a touch bigger and slower, but have higher compressor flow.

You're confusing manifold pressure with actual turbine flow. All "boost" tells you, on your guage, is what pressure is in the manifold above atmospheric. It doesn't tell you how much lb/ft per min the turbo is actually flowing or how hard it's working to get there, thats' what compressor maps are for. This is why EFRs like turbine wheel speed sensors as they are a bit touchy with over speeding. A setup measuring 20psi on -7s with big cams will have the turbos working MUCH harder to maintain that 20psi in the manifold as the cams are flowing all that air out much faster than a car with stock cams which can keep manifold pressure up easily as the head can't flow it out. A good sign the turbos are well and truely overwoorked is big boost taper in the upper RPM, turbos simply cannot keep up so they are effectively maxed out, pushing more hot air. If your turbos are in a safer range they will be able to maintain boost to redline, they are not being out flowed by everhthing else. Which is why people who get hung up on how much "boost" a car is running to make a given power are idiots, because wuthout knowing what turbo is on the car and what flow potential the setup has, it actually means SFA.