GTR_STEALTH

I would say its a fuel problem...... Either pump or pressure

Received your email Mark..... Replyied with question......

AHHHH My Bad, My Bad.... I had written something else but i went back and changed it for some stupid reason....I think i was half asleep :S

Jeeeze! Thats full on!!! Post some pics up of it in ur door

Just thought i'd bump this up as we're getting close to Sunday

Nah sorry dude that's incorrect... Thats because even tho the rim size is bigger the OUTSIDE diamter is the same due to the profile of the tyre bein smaller...245/35/19 compared to the old 255/45/17 So ur speedo is not incorrect. It is still the same. Nah sorry dude thats incorrect also... I could go into the technical reasons as to why but to keep things simple all i will say is: On ur mountain bike which gear do you select to accellerate faster? Answer: The bigger gear/the one with a bigger diameter. Again i could go into the technical side of things and start explaining centrifugal force etc etc, but to keep things really simple....In a setup with large rim low profile there is less flex in the walls. The amount of torque produced would make low profile tyres 'slip' as the energy is not 'absorpt' with too much transferred straight to the ground; and so traction is compromised. The only reason i can think of here(assuming its not mechanical fault) is that the NEW rims are slipping due to a smaller contact surface with the road and so u are not getting good traction. 245/35/19 compared to the old 255/45/17. Also maybe the quality of the new tyres arent too good also?

Faarrrk!!! The WHOLE car? ...as in underneath bonnet, inside doors, underneath boot lid, engine bay...? Thats a MASSIVE job! The car has to be stripped down to a rolling shell pretty much. Motor has to come out and engine bay cleaned and prepped. All the doors have to come off, as well as door seals and trim too. Interior has to come out(And im not just talking about the seats!) I dont see it costing any less then 5-6K

Will the underbonnet and inside the doors etc? If the answer is NO then i'd simply go with the same color as the original but with a nice pearl in it.... Having a Black exterior and blue under bonnet isnt a really good look

I'd be inclined to think its the oil pressure too....btw, have you changed the oil recently? ....was it the right viscosity? OR It could be something as simple as a spark plug on its way out.... Had very similar symptoms on my Commodore, was rough idle on startup...turned out to be one of the plugs....

Email sent this morning....

The first cruise was great and I think all who attended enjoyed. Time to kick off the metro nightlife cruising with AUSREVS! So ... Plot this in your calendars and set aside the time to make your rides shine. Tell your friends and tell them to bring their friends too! CRUISE #2 Please note, this is the new location as the original one did not have the capacity to accomodate this rapidely growing club! MEET TIME: 8:30PM MEET DATE: SAT 6TH MAY MEET LOCATION: BRIGHTON BEACH TRAIN STATION MELWAYS REF: 76 C3 DEPART: 9:30PM There will be a gold coin donation for maps. Each map is numbered and a lucky number will be picked at random. This person will receive a cash prize or fuel voucher of $xx.00 worth to compensate for fuel. This prize is paid out before departure. As i was the only Skyline that attended the Official Cruise #1, it would be great if i could get some others to join in so i dont feel so lonely .... Plus, Some good photo oportunities! Hope to see ya there!!!!!

I've never been to an SAU meet before... I might give this a go as i only live up the road...

Samon, I can have a guess.... Without shorting try yanking fast on the seatbelt and maybe it doesnt lock/grab... Short it and then yank fast and maybe it does.... That's just my guess tho! LoL .....Coz isnt there something with the Soarer's that if the cars not ON -or- seat belt plugged in that you could yank it and it wont lock... Its ment to be some sort of creature comfort thing...

Hey just quickly, Whats the go with HICAS and alignment? Is it regarded as a four wheel alignment? Sorry, dont mean to highjack thread

Howdy guys, Well as the topic states i need your advise on upgrading my R33. Details atm: R33 GTS-T Auto 3 inch Cat back High Flow Cat (Yet to install) What i want to do: Install -FMIC 600x300 approx Install -Boost Controller & Boost to approx 12psi Now i've spoken to a few ppl regarding installation and Computer. From what i've gathered i would need to use E-Manage as the other popular ones wont agree with the auto. Although Electronic Automotive(Melb) rekon that i could get away without using it simply by putting it on the dyno, see where it runs lean and set the MAX boost there....He rekons he's done it heaps of times with the most recent a R34 with just FMIC and controller, NO COMPUTER..... He rekons the E-Manage is shyte as its just a piggy bak with very little options and simply not worth it... From what i've gathered on the forums its obviously of benifit to have the computer done but can i get away without it? Im not after massive gains; just something modest on the standard turbo...say 160/170 rwkw???

Guys, some info..... Clicky: http://www.vicroads.vic.gov.au/vrne/vrne5n...A256FD300241C39 I also have a PDF file detailing all the mods u can and cant do to a car.....but not sure how to put it up on here...

Love the pics dude... The one wif the clouds looks too good to be real!!! ...what camera did ya use?

Good to see ya got the problem nailed... HaHa, i knew it was them two! Read my first line in above post.... In regards to the brown reddy stuff coming out, yeah it was only till u explained in detail that i realised that it was the type of coolant used. I imagined it was rusty/dirty water from ur previous posts...

Howdy everyone, Im a newbie to the forum and i hope to be able to make it to this meet...although i gotta get up early morn for work so not sure if i'll be there for the entire time... How many ppl usually attend?

Classic signs of a blocked radiator & faulty pump... If the water was really really dirty when u flushed it then im willing to bet ur radiator core has blocked up from all the gunk. Also, if there was no corrosion inhibitor visible then as Paul mentioned ur water pump fins would be stuffed. Thermostate should be fine. Change ur pump to be on the safe side and definately 100%get ur radiator looked at by a professional to be cleaned/renewed

BAAYYYWAATCH!!!!

I read somewhere that its a 50 lt tank....

I see..... Except i dont get one lil bit...when you talk about the circular plates in the back....u mean actually inside the unit? So do i need to open the unit up / pull it apart?

Howdy ppl.... I thought i'd ask before i go and try pull everything apart: The button lights on the left hand side of my climate control dont seem to be working. That is the MODE, A/C, "FAN", "Temp Down". Can these lights be changed? Is it simply a matter of taking off the dash facia and then popping off the Climate Control facia?....If so, what globes/led's will i be needing? Cheers EDIT: Sorry its a R33 GTST

UPDATE 8-11-05 Firstly i tried to reset the ecu but it didnt seem to do anything. Then i put the boost back to standard as apposed to having it constat 7psi via earthing the solenoid....Hey presto! I think wat was happening was the computer didnt seem to like the mod so it wanted to 'complain' lol.... So yeah...anyways... Problem solved! :lol: For me anyways...