Victory

You can put me down for this one.

That weight of 1370 kg is very close to the mark as I had to get a weighbridge ticket for my R33 for the blue slip to get her registered and she came in at 1372 kg in stock road trim. Now that she is registered again my worry is that after the Brembo's, new intercooler, big exhaust, big radiator, GTR rear end, GTR body braces etc etc go in I will be up around 1400kg before Brad starts on the bolt in cage.

You have PM.

You could count me in - I would love to go for a run in a Gibson built GTR.

One of my R33's has the "cold area" option that includes demisters in the mirrors and a snow wiper for the rear screen. All of the R33 mirrors that I have (probably about 15) are the same shape and only a few have the extra wires for the defogger. I would suggest that the same option as also available in R34's.

Booked in - glad I didn't get my CAMS licence now. Eastern Creek here we come.

I have been on two SAU Putty Road cruises and they have been magic runs with a good meal in Cesnock pub for lunch. What has Stevo got planned for us in the new year?

Yes this is a common problem with N1 water pumps. One of the bolt holes is elongated and you have to hold the pump so it covers the water passage when you do the mounting bolts up.

This was a great night and I would like to thank the committee for organising such a good event - well done. The venue and atmosphere was good and even driving up from Wollongong was not a problem. I will be definitely be attending any future events at this resturant. And sorry Chubs for not recognising you with your new hair colour.....

I would just put your new speedo into your old cluster - it is an easy job just undo four screws and they come out. That way you have the series 2 face with the correct speedo.

Skyines and GTR's in particular run differently while the engine is cold to protect the engine. As soon as the ECU detects normal temps and oil pressure then they run in normal mode and should perform properly. I normally just let my cars idle until I get water temps up and oil pressure down and then they respond normally and it does not hurt the engine.

Congratulation on getting a drive in the series - The V8's are going to become interesting again having someone to cheer for in the ranks.

Put me down for a full bolt in for a R33. I will send you a PM with details and pictures of some of your cages for components that I would like incorporated into the cage design from ones that you have already built. How do you get on with side intrusion bars in a R33 when you have a drivers seat (OMP WRC) that comes very close to the door frame? Does it mean making up flat door cards from carbon fibre sheet or cutting some groves in the door cards for the bars to recess into?

This is normal - when the oil is cold and thicker you have much more oil pressure and then as the oil heats up it becomes thinner and the pressure level drops. I normally wait until the oil pressure starts to drop back to the normal level before I drive away or if I do drive I take it easy until the pressure comes down to the normal level.

I will take the seat belts provided they are the ones with the red buttons - I will give you a call to arrange pick up.

The question now is what sort of Nissan brakes do you have? The options are R32 GTS-T, R32 GTR (early model). R33 GTS-T and R34 GTT. The pads are interchangeable but there are four different front disk rotors. The rears are all the same. Some pictures may help identify them.

Picked up the brakes and inner guards today - both were in good condition. Tim was easy to deal with. The car took a big hit on the front but otherwise it is in good condition eg the doors, boot and wing, tail lights, rear bar, diff, gearbox etc

You have PM Interested in the brakes and inner guards.

R32 and R33 have a valet mode that only lets you open the boot with the key. There is a lever on the side of the catch - try flincking it to the other location.

Neil - you take things too seriously it is not like I am going to be any competition for you. I have had some good discussions with Brad on a cage design that involves welding the usual mounting plates into the car but with the addition of captive nuts to bolt the bar work to. The main loop and rear legs are legal if you change the registration to a two seater. The bolt in design allows the front bar leg and door braces to be removed for registration purposes. Looks like I am just going to have to add an few more springs to my current collection of 3-4 kg progressive, 4 kg, 4-5 kg progressive, 5 kg, 7 kg, 8 kg and 12 kg until I come up with something that suites what I am attempting to achieve and actually works. I should not bring up the question of rims then as I am some what of a wheel whore.......

You have PM - I will take the lot

Welcome to the current group of guys in NSW who are building track orientated R33 GTS-Ts. Mine unfortunately is a two stage process: Stage 1 - involves getting it back into one piece and registered as it is a repairable write off. Just some minor repairs like all new sheet metal in front of the windscreen, full respray apart from the roof, full conversion from Series 1.5 to Series II inside and out. Stage 2 - now the fun starts with mods similar to yours but keeping the ability to be street registered (bolt in front half of the cage). In the suspension space I am going down the path of standard arms in the front but with the adjustable bushes to obtain the required level of adjustment. In the rear I have a full GTR cradle to go in. For shocks and springs I have a set of Bilstein PSS9's from a R33 GTR (hence the need for the GTR rear cradle) and after talking to Brad will be fabricating some alloy spacers for the front shocks to allow for the difference in overall length between GTR's and GTS-T's. This brings me to my current problem of spring rates and I am curious regarding the springs that you have purchased for your car. I was thinking of going with 7 kg fronts and either 4 or 5 kg rears both with helper springs. What are you other guys also running in the spring / shock area?

For those who have replaced their factory end caps with carbon ones I am after a set of standard end caps in silver for my track car. PM me if you have some for sale.

That is the air conditioner core between the AC fan and the radiator and the bottle shaped part is the air conditioner receiver/dryer,

You have PM re turbos