Simon-S14

WEAK Who turns boost down on the track?!?!!? not me lol

wont work as the R32 unit is shorter, and the body of the sender is smaller so wont fit in the hole. lwboosted: mate i measured both the 33 and the navara drivees with a set of vernier calipers and they are dead center

Got a small hairline crack in the top radiator tank, wanna repair it instead of finding another one. have tried epoxy glue over the top but the coolant seeps it way through! Cheers' Simon

maybe mine doesnt work at all... and im used to not having it, its not that bad either way. my speedo didnt work cause i just did the rb25 swap and hadnt sorted out the drive yet, now that i have it all works, hooked up the speed signal to the ecu as well. hasnt changed the steering tho

well the other way is to turn the tail shaft and count how many revolutions it takes to make the driveshaft turn one full revolution and then work it out from there

you need to take the back cover off the diff and have a look on the crownwheel itself for the ratio, that or count the crownwheel teeth and divide it by the pinion teeth

the shaft is most certainly NOT offcentre. it is dead center of the body... so i have no idea what your on about?

to be honest mate i drove around for a few weeks with no speedo and the steering was fine, then i got the speedo working and i didnt notice any change in the steering at all! could be another prob all together?

i would NOT buy these just jap hubs! they are pretty shitty quality and made of a "soft" alloy! do it properly using nissan gear and you cant go wrong

no, the senders are different

hey mate yeah i got mine all sorted... tad paranoid about the cog falling off as if it does i have no idea how i'll get it out again! or if it will do internal damage to the box. but anyway the navara drive has a longer internal shaft, if you sit the cog on this shaft it will be longer over all then the R33 drive, so i cut off 5mm of the navara shaft, ground a half moon end on the shaft for the cog to sit on also. and the over all length was exactally the same as the R33 unit. so in theory it does not need the extra cut on the other side for the locater. I ended up using a m6 bolt and a round washed to locate the drive via its slot. its a tight fit in the box anyway so i dont see it falling out. Only other drama ive had is the cable is doing a tight U turn now to meet up with the sender... so the speedo needle gets the shakes at lower speeds.

lol. with cheap oil, it still lubricates yet still allowes the rings to wear and bed in, which is what you want! otherwise you're never going to get a good bedded in engine. So no its not an old wives tale.

bump

Im after info for the under dash plugs on the 32, i wanna know which wire is for the following -check engine light on dash -speedo from dash to ecu -climate control from top heater hose in engine bay got a 25 in 32 now and want to hook up those remaining things...

tried ordering 21 tooth from nissan and was told it was going to be quite a wait from japan. and/ord they didnt have it in stock, so i gave up on that idea. as for getting the cog off... i ended up firing the oxy up at work and melting the bastard off... worked perfectly

bump thread i just bought the same speedo drive with the intention of swapping cogs. but how the hell do you get the cog off the navara one???

for run in? the cheapest shittiest bilo brand mineral oil possible.. and once it is run in then go a full syntehtic.. like mobil 1

and replied, cheers

PM 1400r as i believe they have one at his work (Kanzai Automotive)

Im after an R32 RB20 ecu either turbo or non turbo it doesnt matter. PM me and i'll make an offer Cheers Simon

looking good man! that 34 turbo must make a diff, what power you making now?

thats exactally right, depends on the tuner a lot, and the hardware, i can vouch for 1400r and Huddy's numbers also.

like wise, seems like an oilcontrol issue there. but yeah, we're not saying thrash the shit out of a fresh engine, just dont baby it whatever you do, besure to use most of the rev range and keep the boost to factory levels and load it up up hills often. this is how i have run in several engines in the past (rotors and piston engines) and ive never had a single issue with them. someone posted the link, but seriously click it and read all about it. HERE

225 rwkw for me with stock AFM and injectors, just a remap, AFR's were around the 12's too. was a very reliable package

ffs, the people who say baby it for the first 200 kms or so have no clue, this is the most crucial period for the rings to bed in, you risk glazing the bores or not getting a propper seal if you dont load up the motor straight away, likewise you should avoid idling and sitting on constant RPM. best way to run the motor in is to use stock boost settings, and drive it hard through hills, that way the motor see's a varying rev and load range. If the motor breaks during this period, its a shit rebuild