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Simon-S14

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Everything posted by Simon-S14

  1. S1 loom uses a separate ignitor this wont work with the neo coils and you wont be able to fit s1 coilpacks in there. So the EASIEST way to make it all work would be to run a Series 2 RB25 loom, it will plug into your 33 no worries, gets rid of the ignitor and then you can run neo coil packs. The RB20 ecu will run it no worries. Adapting the neo loom and running the neo ecu with a nistune would give a better overall result but at the expense of more work since theres a fair bit of rewiring to make the neo loom fit your r33.
  2. rods same, pin height varys depending on the engine.. eg 25 or 26
  3. funny you say that my car is about a 90km round trip away lol
  4. well.. as it turns out the rear main may not be leaking after all but the rear of the head/cam cover, dripping down thro the bell housing. another solid day/night of work... have spent pretty much 3pm til 10pm every night including whole days sat and sundays working on it... feeling rather drained and burnt out but its very close now... should be ready for tunes on thursday. So far its promising... sounds f**king unreal!!
  5. Cranks are the same as is block
  6. Bonnet is a genuine origin type 2 carbon. I like it cause its got no vents up front! Lights are aftermarket crystal type commonly found on Ebay lol. Cheaper then genuine ones secondhand
  7. another solid 7 hours spent on it... been crazy the amount of work that i have put into this along with Decs from Garage 7. got ready to get it all started and straight away as soon as i put oil in it noticed it was leaking like a mofo from the rear main seal... arrrrg thats so annoying! is a brand new seal too and i was carefull putting it on too. so f**k knows what the go there is. anyway primed it up.. took 2 solid mins and 2 batteries of cranking with plugs out to get oil flowing thro everything and pressure to build, i was worried for a min there. Soon as pressure was up i plugged in the coilpacks and injectors and then went to start it and it fired up straight away! i was shocked haha. needed a tad more fuel to idle smooth and once that was done it starts and idles better then it ever has and its not even tuned! base map is pretty close i reckon haha. Sounds AMAZING!
  8. thanks mate.. comments like that make it worth while haha.. we have done some serious hours on this car lately... trying to get it all finished and ready for a hill climb event next weekend (something non drift related!!) did cooler pipes today, now i can weld no worries but havent had much alloy practice turns out i defo need more prac haha. i designed the pipe work and got Decs from garage 7 to weld it for me after i got frustrated with not being able to pull a decent weld haha. heres another pic.
  9. its a direct plug and play into the engine yes but not the car, you would have to wire the neo loom to the car, not difficult if you know what your doing. but you have a point.. it will give a better result. you can then use the nistune on the 34 ecu also
  10. more pics.. manifold is done.. its a very high quality item from Garage 7. whole lot of trickery has gone into it and every runner is the exact same length. collector is laser cut and a few other little n eat things like the fact that i can install the whole thing using just one spanner. no custom cut down tools needed! excuse the finish... i painted it with VHT flame proof paint for now.. will get it ceramic coated soon. but after this up comign event next weekend
  11. Get a series 2 loom
  12. heres a few more pics.. Neo fuel rail on rb26... few mods and it fits sweet as f**k. also if you look closely you'll see the 3 ports welded to the coolant rail on top of the intake. You'll soon see whats in store here.
  13. its the same car man yeah the manifold burnt the paint off the strut tower... i wrapped and ceramic coated the shit out of it all but still got hot with the hard time i gave it
  14. yeah i had a set of 34 gtr cams available to use so i just used them instead of the 32 ones and used me neo cas with it. since i know its in good condition etc.
  15. more pics... Test fitting of manifold.. its now all welded up and ready for machining
  16. thats being done now so that the haltech can monitor it
  17. well found the cause of death and overheating on the old set up... i went to wire up the fuel pumps in the boot and thought i would prime the surge tank so it was full before i attempt to start it. manually powered up the lift pump in the tank with 12v direct from a battery and nothing happens... turns out its dead as it can be.. so last few events it has been running off the twin 044's alone and the suction from those pumps draws fuel into the surge. crazy, no wonder it melted pistons!
  18. my dash was cracked before.. now i cant even notice it... it seems to have covered it pretty well! pretty happy with the outcome but i highly doubt the flock material is going to stand the test of time. RBish: yeah the haltech has a inbuilt mapsensor, you can run up to 22psi before needing an external map sensor. as for the rewire.. its not for the faint hearted haha, im actually writing an article for drift battle atm on this very topic. manifold is underway... should be finished very soon. its a work of art and a Garage 7 speciality item. it features a laser cut collector, equal length runners, a flange that bolts to either RB20/25 and Rb26 bolt pattern along with some other tricks..should work well!
  19. more progress... wiring is taking me forEVER! i have spent 4 full days so far on various parts of the full car rewire.
  20. Lol dreamer
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