Simon-S14

i have a set of R34 neo Rb25det Yellow jacket coil packs for sale.. perfect condition and made 350 rwkw on my set up with zero misfires. about 1 year old. $300 firm

not really when it sees over 4000 rpm most of the time. only mods needed is to block VCT oil feed off and thats about it

got my mate Hayden at All Type Crash to paint my engine covers for the new motor... shit looks unreal. Its a Candy apple metallic orange... pretty cool! Heres some pics.. some of the pics are of it before the clear was applied.

RB26 rods with APR studs and ACL race bearings. stock pistons with JE total seal rings. no point in going forgies... stock pistons are not the weak link IMO

finally painted the engine bay and inside... tho i ran out of paint and didnt fully finish some parts of the inside.. makes it very difficult with full windows in to paint the inside of a car lol. Will have to finish the rest later on cause im all out of time/paint etc to do the rest. All in all.. looks shit loads better

well not a lot has happened to the s14 lately but i finally have parts and the next 3-4 weeks are going to be FULL ON. so here goes the updates! Got the motor back from machinist... hot washed the block, hone, new welsh plugs, decked the block, grubscrewed the crank, linished crank, skimmed the head, hardness tested and pressure tested the head. new valve stem seals and general clean up. all going back together this weekend with total seal rings, ACL race bearings for mains and big ends (new ones again) full nissan gasket kit and deciding to go back to OEM head gasket instead of the MLS gasket i was using.

they wont be the same as sidefeeds (r33) due to different design of injector.. could possibly be same as 32 and GTR tho. ask for where... go to an EFI shop. or an Oring/seals business

im not saying that it will fail straight away. but put two welds together side by side.. one with an undercut and the other with a concave overlap and i know which one will stand the test of time. manifolds are subject to massive heat cycles.. and generally the first place they crack is at a welded joint. my point? weld them properly and they will last

exactly, undercut on the welds will lead to iissues. hence my comment about it being a weak weld. price also has nothing to do with it as it takes very little extra effort and time to get a concave weld which has ample coverage and penetration. fix a few little issues and then these manifolds would be awesome

i have no doubt that the welds on the rest are strong. but the one pictured is not. it has LESS material then what you started with with the parent material. I am a qualified welder and i know a weak weld when i see one. As i said. its a pretty weld not a strong one. The fact you did it for show for a customer makes me wonder if you know what your doing.

just want to point out that this weld while it looks nice and pretty is NOT a strong weld. theres a large amount of undercut on the edges. needs more filler wire as it loks like its just been fusioned together

update... i got Carbon 34 off this forum to do some carbon parts for my interior for me... so far so good.. heres a sneak peak

had a search. could only find info on aftermarket stuff. is there any difference between nissan rb26 camshafts between 32,33 and 34 Rb26's?

i may be able to get the vct gear for you mate

almost 300 rwkw? doubtful

yeah mod the stock manifold to be forward facing.. people will tell you that it doesnt work and that there are flow distribution drama;s this is crap if its done correctly. plenty ppl makng 400 rwhp from stock rb25's reliably mate

Lot of money to spend on something that makes no gains

Btw get the same rings that I'm using. Nisssn ones are quite expensive. JE pro seals suit the neo pistons and are cheap ish

Nah it's pretty easy mate theres one page in. the r33 manual that has mains and big end specs. It's 0.025 - 0.050 mm range with a max tolerance of 0.090mm

i think incorrect or too thick an oil can also cause the wear you have seen. esp on cold starts where the oil is too thick to flow between the bucket and head properly.

1: you should never have pulled the motor spart.. they are strong motors and will handle lots of power providing it has the correct support systems and tune 2: a split pulse turbo housing will fit on a non split t3 manifold. but you wont see any of the benifits of the split pulse design. 3: greddy manifold will cause you yo lose midrange torque. stock is best and can flow upwards of 400 rwkw. if you must go forward facing either get a plazmaman or similar. or GTR throttles. 4: use your gizmo ebc and get someone to tune the PFC. further notes: that wastegate is too small if you fit cams and want to run a 35R. you'll need a 44mm gate minimum. greddy copy manifold is junk and 550's may be a tad on the small size if you want 350+ rwkw

haha gold. umm in a slight update... my interior is going to be a rad place soon. dash flocked and new cluster mount and centre part all being done in carbon

if u have stock cams.. nothing to worry about. if u have poncams or something... i'd suggest stiffer springs.

yeah im sure you could.. i havent measured RB26 shims but they visually look the same size as neo ones.. so possibly a case of just swapping them over. realistically i think the solution is stiffer springs.. Andrew from AM Performancewas one of the unlucky few that spat a shim out at mallala. car had done SAU nats at winton the week before with no issues. spat a shim at 7000 rpm and shim got wedged in the valve train. the bucket then thrashed out the alloy in the head and distroyed it N1GTR: no idea what she said she wa sin a car turning at an intersection.. lol she just starts screaming some shit. engine is just a block. no oil trail lol. guess she couldnt handle the awesomeness of it all