Simon-S14

and now i have another crank... out of a 33 motor. while i was at it i took a stack of pics of neo vrs R33 pistons and rods... the differences are huge,. uploading now

my 180sx practice car. whole car, with this motor package, coils, locked diff, and few other extras has cost me sub 2K.

yeah wont be using pushlock again... too risky. had a chat to my local hydralink guy today and will go with single wire hydraulic hose with crimped JIC fittings..that shit aint coming off lol. in the end damage was spun number 2 bearing and a cracked crank...am attempting to rebuild it using new crank, acl race bearings, APR rod bolts and N1 oil pump. hopefully should cover the bases oh and cheers for the offer! i may still hit you up. depends how busy my hydralink guy is.

yeah not even bothering with DOHC head.. the E+t will be juuuust fine

mainly coilpack, loom, afm and ecu differences. the motor's internally are the same. with some exception to the oil pump drive. so... get whichever one is in better condition.

do what im doing 1X VL Rb30E in mint condition add RB30ET turbo manifold + RB25 stock turbo (i got these for $300) Rb20det injectors (cheap - free) bolt into stock rail position Convert dizzy to CAS by using dead RB20 CAS AU coil packs, wired as wasted spark RB20 ignitor RB20 engine loom and ECU, remapped RB20 AFM good for a torquy 180 rwkw and cost you dick all

funny you should say that... just got a call saying my crank is cracked... off to a good start!

haha it is.

sre they 86.5's? come with rings and pins? if so how much again?

turns out the neo does not have the long nose crank :S so still got the shitty short drive with all of 4mm of engagement on the oil pump. will certainly look at doing all those thats for sure.

i phone doesnt do close ups lol. crank is ok ish... number 2 is the only bearing thats damaged.. number one shows significant wear also. measured it up and number 2 on the crank is only ever so slightly under the minimum tolerance. soooo.. gonna get it reground 10tho undersize and go with the larger acl Race bearings, new mains, new oil pump and then re assy. pistons, rods, rings, bores all look like they just rolled out of nissan. not sure if i should bother with going forgies. no det marks, no nothing on the pistons.

from WTAC to stripped in 2 days... not bad if i say myself considering i work a full time job inbetween lol

motor out... bearings are rooooted.

ripple strips at eastern creek are naaaaaasty

man eastern creek owns rims....

thats what i was thinking

any more info on these??

the death was a result of dropping all of its oil first lap out... left 7L on the track. it ran wityh no oil pressure briefly. once repaired and topped back up it lasted a further 7 laps before spinning bearings. and yeah stock sump.

yeah wish it happened locally lol. but f**k.. thats motorsport. the time attack guys were having breakages left right and centre. heres some pics anyway

back from WTAC and not a good result motor spun several bearings after just 7 laps. dropped oil from a failed oil cooler fitting on first lap out and then fixed it up and filled it back up and it seemed ok. but 7 laps in and it started rattling really bad.

same as us.. bout midday

seems pretty good now... doesnt get hot

heres a pic with some more stickers on.

rear bar is new also. both bar and skirts were an absolute flamin mongrel to fit! LED strips are hooked to a strobe controller also for extra wank factor