Simon-S14

almost makes me wonder if the cap area one the radiator is actually allowing a good seal or not.. it is a cheap shit radiator after all. yeah it gets hot.. then pushes the water into the overflow and then boils. every time it does this the radiator level is lower and with air in it.. then it gets worse. kinda a chain reation.

suggestions for better rad? im open to anything atm. it cant be higher then current r32 radiator due to the s14's lack of room. as for blockage i doubt it.. cooling system is pretty new, only run coolant, rad is only 12 months old. but i spose anythings possible

I have some fairly serious overheating issues... its getting worse and worse. got a 52mm alloy rad, clutch fan, new water pump and thermostat and basically whats happening is after 1-2 laps it starts reaching 100.. takes a bit to cool down.. then if you get it back down to 90 and do another lap it shoots up to 110 and boils the coolant out... refuses to come back down even with a cool down lap and water squirters on. worst ive seen it was 120 degrees any insight?

yeah that diagram is right, make sure that the oil OUT from the spin on adaptor does to the OUTSIDE of the filter on the oil filter relo. then everything else is straight forward

i run a hose on my hardline to the outside of the engine bay

prob with no carbon canistor is that the fuel tank vent line just vents vapours in the engine bay.. dont block it off either then the tank has no pressure releif

well it survived a 2 day event.... loves it vid for proof.

well motor survived two day track event at winton... no issues... and i drained the oil and no material, going to send a sample off for testing and see what it says.. but its a bit weird!

if timing has slipped and valves bent, the oil will still be clean as. so dont worry there. Rip the cam cover off dude. sounding very much like a slipped belt :S

to a point.. manuals sap less power. but yeah auto's have manu advantages.. my auto stagea beats my mates r31 with 180 rwkw rb20. mainly cause i dont need to back off lol

if you read up a bit he said he has spark and fuel. need to test pressure and timing... i believe the issue is here somewhere

yeah flow doesnt mean shit if theres no pressure to back it up. you'll need a pressure gauge at most. just rip the cover off the cams and see what the timings doing.. you need to start eliminating things one by one

bottom crank balancer mark needs to line up with the notch on the timing cover. this is TDC. pull number 1 spark plug out and use a blunt object down the bore on top of the piston to confirm this as you rotate the crank. the highest point is TDC. then.. the two cam gears must line up with their corrosponding marks.. theres a dot on the cam and a line on the backing plate of the cover. if they are out by even 1 tooth.. something is f**ked

as above... have run as low as 18 on a neuton NT5000 when cold and it goes up to about 25 after a lap... defo plenty grip to be had there. however this wont work on a federal as its too low.

sounds to me very much like a timing related problem. usually when your timing is out it will backfire thro the intake. I would be pulling the cam gear cover off and putting the motor at TDC and checking the timing marks are all lined up. failing that... your fuel pump could be f**ked.. might have enough pressure to prime but then dies off leaving you with bugger all rail pressure.

should i be worried? LOL tho as a track i do have it insured.. shannons offer insurance for track cars that covers them for while its on the trailer and in garage/workshops.. well worth it if you spend shitloads on your track only car. Winton this weekend... hopefully motor holds together!

TECH INSPECTION (basic info) The items we really target in these events are 1/ ALL WHEEL STUDS/NUTS 2/ NO WASHER PACKS FOR WHEEL SPACERS 3/ BATTERY SECURED BY CLAMPS (not zip ties) 4/ SEAT BOLTED IN WITH 4 CORRECT SIZE BOLTS (not zip ties or self tappers) 5/ SEAT BELTS CORRECTLY FITTED & IN GOOD COND 6/ NO FLUID LEAKS 7/ BONNET & BOOT TO LATCH CORRECTLY 8/ STEERING WHEEL NUT FITTED SECURELY (have seen some without) 9/ APPROVED HELMET & ANKLE TO WRIST CLOTHING COVER, COVERED SHOES 10/ NO ITEMS LOOSE INSIDE THE CAR (bottles cans tools etc) 11/ TIDY SECURE BODY 12/ NUMBERS (if we did not allocate you a number last year put your preferred number down or we can select 1 for you) Hope this helps some of the new drivers Should you have any further questions please call or pm NOTE STREET CLASS is looking strong for this event The 3 round Street Series should be very competitive

thanks guys... anyone in Adelaide need work done feel free to shoot me a PM

nah mines not that bad. have spoken with a few engine builders and they have all said it looks like the start of some bearing wear and that placing a life span on it is impossible.. could last a day could keep going for another 12 months. Gonna start building a spare bottom end i have anyway i reckon!

the 60lb and 80lb versions are both 14mm. I think Mr Stabby might have an older smaller model which is 11mm. the 80's are a great injector. easy to tune, good spray pattern and flow well.. everything you need really!

nah i wouldnt say full. i drained the oil into a clean bottle that wasnt black, cut the side out of it. then poured it into a waste drum and left a bit in there. holding it in the sun reveals the oil to have a metalic sparkle to it. and then right at the bottom was a couple of tiny metal flakes. so yeah.. pretty clear damage has been done.

did an oil change today.... and well... not the best result dont think i'll need to send an oil sample off. that will be 50 i can put towards a new motor i think

im hoping it was all ok... i still had plenty oil pressure when running the motor etc. so i guess the pressure valves must have popped. lucky i'd say

yeah as said... straight e85 on the 80lbs and theres more left in them too.. but we're npot pushing any more power.. pretty much at the limits of this turbo output! some progress knocked up an alloy air induction box to sit behind the front bar... to try and get the most thro my set up as possible... was easier said then done lol

Brand new AM Performance Catch back exhaust to suit R33 GTSt or GTR, is not too loud, high quality item. has twin baffled pipes also. $800 fitted if your in SA. Apexi BOV with hard pipe to suit SR.. pretty old school but its bearly been used and is all metal construction. none of the cheap plastic shit that you see on the market today, $120 + 10 postage if interstate Contact me via PM or sms 0412 938 933