dangerman4

.82 and mines a auto rb25

agreed ive ran mine on my new turbo to 27 psi on stock springs without issue. hmmm thinking cap on...

at the back of the plenum theres a round gold thing. theres a screw at the end of it pointing at your brake booster. use a screw driver and adjust that with your car running.

i agree dano im also running a 3582r-iw at 330 rwkw's at 24 psi with no boost issues but if the man's convinced on chaning for some reason, dont weld the standard one just change housings.

As above but translated for you. sell your internal gated rear housing and buy a external gated housing.

lol bout time you got it on the dyno. ive been waiting for ages to see the results thru a manual. nice work, but i think you have more in your setup somewhere. the actuator was only a 14 psi garret item so maybe a 18psi will assist the drop issue, and also help it spool sooner.

Super Skid????

can you please get a couple pics of the 2 x rb26 heads. and pm me or post them up here either or. very intersted just not sure which one. what model are they 32? 33? and why have they not got cam covers?

good job Stan im running the same power out of my r33gtst rb25 auto with a fully built box from mv, and have been for 18 months with no flex plate issues. must be a 34 thing, as i dont remember my plate looking anything like the one you have shown. can you please throw up the dyno graph showing boost and power, and then one showing torque. it would be a good comparison with my car running the 25 allthough with a heap more boost.

amusing how it states its a full race core thats oil and water cooled, yet the pics show its only oil cooled dodgy....

i would think a 3582 at 15 - 18 psi would be smoother on the engine then a 3037 on 22 - 24 psi thats why i allways stir up the gtrs lovers after 6 months they upgrade, following 6 months they upgrade again... costs a fortune to upgrade dumps and lines every 6 months. waste of time stick a gt3582r-iw on it from the get go and just dont crank the boost as high. when you rebuild and want more power turn the wik up. simple cost effective modding.

dont we SA people need a race track before worrying about straight line performance? sell it and get a garett 3582r-iw .82 boost will start low 2k full boost before 4k, and potential for 350 rwkws.

those were the days, when some one yells out cops and then everyone runs to there torana datsun etc and quietly sneaks off almost fast and the furious style, cars going everywhere the lucky ones escaped, the trapped ones lock there cars and flee the scene. ah the memories....

LOL get it right Steve its a zx10r engine.... and yes i have and can rebuild them, but no im not interested. to much work on as it is....

far quicker and easier to remove the tree with the bobcat. dont need a chainsaw, and plus you will get the roots as well so it wont grow back.

is that a blue gates belt there? the blue stuff on the back of the belt makes that noise when it rubs on the idlers. after 1000 kays have a look at the idlers they will be covered in lumps of blue gunk. i removed the belt and the brand new idlers gave them a clean with a wire wheel and installed a genuine nissan belt prob fixed. no more noise. it had nothing to do with the belt tension, just a common flaw with the blue gates belts.

hey all the way thru i have been trying to help. i offered a easy soloution and then backed it up with advice on how to etc, dont class me as a keyboard warrior when you have offered nothing useful yourself. i couldnt give a toss what you guys pay people to work on your cars. has nothing to do with me. i was mearly trying to open your eyes to the fact the workshop wasnt giving u as good a bargain as u thought you were getting.

thats funny as f**k... cheers for the laugh.... sorry but madaz is correct 3hrs sounds like a minimum charge to me. 2min soloution they cant charge you $5 so they just slug you a minimum rate of 3 hours. you should have asked for a service and car wash during the rest of the 3 hrs.

your afm is very close to your turbo which wouldnt be helping at idle.

well you obviously didnt pump air into it or this would have shown up and you would have saved yourself $2oo and something dollars. all good tho glad its minor congrats.....

may i ask how much you paid for it and what it was previously installed on?

ummm think about it... if his pumping air into a vac hose they all come off the plenum, so therfor the whole system is full of compressed air both before and after the throttle body, its not hard to open the throttle if your concerned about the air getting past it. does your car sound a little like a wrx at idle? as there were no air leaks my finger is pointed at the ringlands. at least one piston, probally several of them. rebuild time.

http://au.youtube.com/watch?v=X4hjbp3gp1g this is me last weekend. enjoy

yes i have done it several times, if you double the bag over it will hold nearly 2 bar. 2 bar coming out thru a leak makes a loud noise so its easy to find and then fix. who knows he may have 3 or 4 leaks. i know last time i did it i had 2 leaks in regards to which hose it dosent matter as long as its a vacum hose. ie the fuel reg, a ebc, bov line, they are all about 3 - 5 mm inside diamater which fits snuggly over your air comp nozzle. simple tight seal that you dont need to hold onto just charge it up with a couple squirts of air and then go hunting for leaks.