dangerman4

i have offered you the solution yet u still refuse to help yourself why? if you dont have a compressor drive to the servo and do it there. turn your car off, open the bonnet, undo your afm install freezer bag and then reinstall afm it takes 2 minutes and by doing this test it will act as if your car is on boost and therefor expand the hoses enough that they will piss out air. without your car running it is easy as to hear if and where you have a leek. 2 minutes and then you can tell everyone where the leek was.

pull your afm off put a freezer bag over it and then reinstall it. then pump some compressed air into your vacum line to your fuel reg and listen for where the air is coming from. doing this will presurise your whole engine and every vac and pressure hose on the car. takes 2 minutes and prob solved.

burnout? you linked the wrong video clown....... and by the way your reversing skills are very poor, i figured you must have had a 30 ft boat on the back and have used photo shop to remove it from the vid.

as Paul said, the internals are fairly similar but the vl trans is mechanically controlled not electricaly controlled so you wont need the auto ecu wiring loom out of the 33. in saying that if you all ready have the trans and the full wiring loom it should be a fairly simple install.

get your mate to call me, we will switch bikes see if he can do it on loose gravel. i only posted it cause i thought a few of you would have been amused im not interested in entering a pissing compitition with Ghost Rider or anything.

now that would be funny me on the quad against my missues in her 33 both doing a 10 second quater but im on the back wheels

cheers for all the coments guys. im glad you like it. i had a ball doing it, and after only 1 beer as well.

As a dedicated FI viewer i thought i might just squeeze this in here. mods if u must move thats fine but for while its here i thought you might appreciate a good youtube flick. i built this creation over the past few years and took it out for the weekend. Enjoy

i guess thats the question rips, do you do a 26 setup to suit 25? if so how much? and how would it compare to your current 25 plenum in terms of overal performance across the board?

at a guess your a doctor thats specialises in colonoscopy?

This is my toy that i have created. 2005 model yfz450 atv with a 2006 model zx10r engine. ive had it to 230 kph across a paddock several times, and also 160 kph wheelies are a breeze. have a look on youtube under yfz10r for some vids. so grandmasterb tell me more about the ducati 848. im looking for that exact motor for my next quad. where did you get one from and how much was it? pm if u like.

thats morries from HPIAB. nice car.

looks like a bunch of rednecks have taken over highway 1.

my stock springs have delt with 27 psi without issue

motul 300v here

hey warlord try pumping compressed air into your intake system with a compressor. i do this about every 6 months as it shows up any leaks in the system. the easiest way i have found is undoing the clamp where your afm is, getting a plastic freezer bag putting over the afm and then reinstalling the afm and doing the clamp up. you can then use a trigger nozzle from your air comp stick into the fuel reg hose and pump 2 bar into your intake system. a lot of leeks wont show up unless there under pressure so this is the quickest and easiest way that i have found and works every time. and also a poor earth wont do the engine any good put it that way.

imagine a generic ballon that u blow up. when you let go of it it takes off and goes in any dirrection erratically. imagine that with paint coming out instead of air. when theres a group of 31 drivers cowarding behind a log you can bung one over the top and wipe out the lot.

http://www.thefishingshow.co.nz/video click on the link and check out ganet man

im keen can we use paint grenades?

please dont ask silly questions turn caps lock off and then include all details . a build motor? ls1? gemini? kia carnaval? what engine? and what level of mods?you talking a engine with forged pistons and stock everything else? or a full house and shed and granny flat built with stroker crank 12.5mm lift cams the works? its impossible to anwer your random question at present. having a look thru the dyno threads would give you a idea. everyone else looks thru there to find the anwers

contact mike at MV Automatics Blackwood SA and he will post the bits you need with full instructions, so then you can get your local mechanic to fit. its a fairly simple process. and yes shift kit 1st trans cooler 2nd

have a read http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/R3...-s-t146489.html explains all my findings. ive had over 300 kws at the rears for years. with no issues power , snow , in the middle all work fine.

what you need to do is think about the final boost setting you wish to run at. dont waste your time having a low boost setting and a high boost setting thats just silly. pick your desired final boost level say 20 psi, and then get a new actuator as close as you can get to that level. ie a 18 psi actuator. once you have that make the shaft to suit the position thats its in so the rod is pulling central on the diaphram and set about half a hole prelaod on the gate pivot. then you will have good, stable, boost control. the main benifit i found is boost will ramp up real hard to 18 psi before the gate cracks open so the midrange is improved dramatically. and by using just half to 3/4 a hole prelaod you will get max travel from the flapper and therfore have good wastgate flow up high in the revs.

yep im on pppoe/llc and my system is a intel cor 2 duo e6850 with a geforce 8800 gts running on adls2 but im a fair way from the exchange so i only get a download of around 3mbps and on ventrillo it shows my ping as 245 on average. im addicted to aoe3 AD so any more performance i can get would be great thanks all

if cubes is entering then count me in just to stop him winning. is nitros allowed?