dangerman4

i was more amused by his other items for sale. 5.1 surround speakers, over $5k Brand new still in original boxes.lol (just put back into boxes) isnt everything these days 6.1 o 7.1 surround? to his credit tho both items are pickup only so you wouldnt pay a cent unil you seen it in person.

why is the power dropping off at 6500 rpm? is this the max flow of the exhaust housing? im not disputing its a nice graph, but a few of the figures at the bottom look like they have been fudged a bit. im curious if you were to pump more boost into it whats the detonation levels like? regardless it looks like a good thing on a internally standard bottom end.

dont bother with your car running cause you may find a leak if your lucky but you may not. grab a frezzer bag from the pantry, undo the hose clamp where your intake goes onto your AFM. remove the afm and put the bag over the end of it and then reinstall as normal. now remove the vacum line to your FPR or similar and stick compressed air in there. this will pressurise the whole intake system and alow you to pin point any leaks from the intake manifold right up to the afm. leave the bag double thickness will hold about 1.5 bar. evryone should do this now and then as you will find even the smallest of leaks. cheers

if you didnt use a timing light then you guessed. as i said get a light, set it at 15 btdc and leave it alone. if your worried about economy get it checked on a dyno, if you cant afford the fuel bill then sell your car and get a prius but dont just start turning the cas at random to try and increase anything. pinging = broken ringlands = rebuild

asuming your running a standard ecu, get a timing light and set your timing at idle to 15degrees BTDC then leave the thing alone. you will only cause yourself issues by playing with it. different parts of the ignition map need different amounts of timing, so playing with the cas is a bad idea. if you wind it up to 20 degrees base timing you might think wow this pulls well at lower revs, and seems to go much better. but your whole timing map has been changed 5 degrees. when your on full boost as little as 1 degree can cause it to ping in certain spots of the map. and unless you have a aftermarket ecu showing you that its pinging you may never here it.

im available as a ring in if you need. only live 10 min away from seaford. played sweeper and goalie for 10 years when i was younger.

forged pistons have a specific tolerance so i wouldnt recomend trying to stick with the standard size. a nice fresh rebore to 20 tho will gaurentee the bores a perfectly round and the right size to suit the piston specs.

do you have 350rwkws with a nismo, tomei etc theres lots of 200rwkw keyboard warriors on here that say you must have a nismo pump cause there so easy to install. bla bla bla. they flow 276lph bla bla. simple question who has 350rwkws with a tomei or nismo pump? im just curious cause i have never heard of any one pushing one that hard.

044 intank with a nice fine filter to prevent any junk getting sucked thru the pump. very easy DYI whisper quiet and efficient up past 350rwkws on the standard lines. still runs fine with less the 5ltrs of fuel in the tank. i want to know from all the people in this thread that have said go the tomei or nismo, how many of you are running 350rwkws? any of you?

Ok cool do you have any pics of the turbo itself?

what? now im confused... are you saying that your current hybrid is bush bearing? because gcg mainly make ball bearing highflows. the 3071r-sp that i had was running the larger gt30 core and i was still maxed out at 270 kws. so i wouldnt go throwing money at them to upgrade the core for very minimal results. and the other thing is if the turbo you have is so great why would you want to upgrade the core? If the air cant get in and out thru the exhaust housing quicker a bigger core could see your results go backwards. If you factor in the purchase price of this "bolt on kit" and then decide to upgrade the core, which means new water/oil lines plus uninstall reinstall, you find the cost out past a hks 3037. and you will still be running a basterderised hybrid lol was that a word?

044 intank FTW

im concerned that you mentioned it will retain the same nissan exhaust housing dump pattern just rotated slightly? how does that work? have they made a spacer thats not flat? so it kicks the turbo up on a angle? or is it some recast version of the standard housing that they have modified to suit. also you mentioned it uses the stock oil and water feed. sounds like a high flow! i have a feeling that this is very similar to my original turbo, which was a gt3071r-sp and worked ok up to around the 270kw mark. the fact that im running a auto shows that its potential is around the 300kws on a manual, but that was the limit of its exhaust housing design and would not produce any more power no matter what we tried. it just hit the wall. i was lucky enough to get my hands on the first gt3582r-iw released in Australia, and have never looked back. the power delivery and just general feel of the turbo are so much nicer. so anyone out there in SAU if you contemplating a new turbo go straight to a gt3582r-iw if you want to make over 310kws or if you have a standard engine go straight for a original 3071 with the propper garret housing. at least if you blow your engine and then rebuild a 3582 will bolt straight on down the track so you can then make more power. theres nothing worse then paying to upgrade the same things over and over again. upgrade it once and do it properly. you will save your self a fortune in the long run

gotta love it when people come on and say they want 300 rwkws with no lag and they want it for less then $1500 bucks. $15k will get you 300kws reliably.

Hey Jared i run a top of the range ASE kit. (Auto Sport Engineering) behind castle plaza. maybe call in there and have a look at the kits for yourself and see what you think. im making around the 350kw mark with a exposed pod and it works very well. ping below 20 even when its 40 degrees.

just to chuck some more fuel on the fire, over in the states the nissan v6 comes out supercharged. the Frontera and the xtera (like our pathfinder) run the vg and vq motors with a eaton blower between the V we thought we would give it a go and picked up a few suitable parts off ebay, and bolted them onto my brothers pathfinder running on gas and petrol at 5 psi we picked up about 40% of both torque and kws. total price was around $800 which includes a bigger gas convertor. and the install took around 4 hrs.

you keep filling it up some prick keeps siphoning it out. failing that yea i would say o2 sensor, or a combination of other issues that you have going on. dyno time for you i feel

i run 24 psi in a pretty much straight line. total difference in boost from start to finish is less then 1.5 psi. this is with the standard gate, 17psi actuator and a pfc ebc. when i first had my 3071 i was running the same 1 bar actuator that you guys prob have from garret. it was a piece of junk for trying to control boost over about 16 pound. thats why i changed and instantly found it to make a massive difference. actuators will only control about 7psi from there opening pressure. mine is at the limit of that thats why im thinking of going higher again.

ETM for the win. and just so you know a r33 gtst running 320 rwkws on a stock manifold. change over to a ETM and you will gain around 30kws and pick up around 400rpm in spool time. you mentioned you have been stung before with a crappy manifold so why risk it again. ETM are gaurenteed for life to never crack or warp so just get one and never look back.

the biggest inprovement i found in holding a steady boost was putting a heavier actuator on there. im currently running a 18psi actuator but im considering changing that out for a 24 psi one. i run 24 pound daily so i may as well have a 24psi actuator. mine ramps up real hard til the gate opens around 18 and then it continues to climp but not as fast. if i was to have a 24 psi actuator it should ramp up hard to 24 pound and then go level staright across. in theory any thoughts

can you show me a picture of the resistor.

im running around the 350kw mark and have been for some time. what i did was mount the 044 intank. go to your local car parts store and pick up a fuel sock from a v8 falcon, i think around the EA EB era. it has a white plastic 90 degree elbow coming of it and its about 15mm pipe. cut this elbow off as high as possible and then you can join this with fuel hose straight on to the bottom of the o44 pump. wrap the pump in 2 inch clear fuel hose from pirtek, and then a few conectors etc and away you go. whisper quiet , and as the sock sits right at the bottom of the tank theres no 1/4 tank issues. this total install took me 3 hours start to finish. which includes driving around to pirtek, and sprint autos. works perfectly every time, and as i said whisper quite. the nismo and tomei pumps are good easy install but whats the highest power level on here some one has made with one? ive heard of heaps of you guys using them but no one thats close to 350rwkws. im not a massive fan of the surge tank idea in a street car. for 1 there defectable, but they also rely on at least 2 pumps. when 1 of the pumps fails the other is going to keep supplying a small amount of fuel to your engine. if your doing 8000rpm when this occurs your afr are going to go from 12 to 20 real quickly and until you back off. if you have one good pump intank and it dies, then yes it will lean out still but the motor will stop firing as theres no fuel at all to try and run on. this will take place in less then a second, while the 2 pump set up may go on for 5 or 10 seconds or even longer if you dont realise theres a problem. just my thoughts.

is the tacho changing revs when it does this or can you just feel the car surging? if its just your car surging i would point the finger at the idle control solenoid.

most of those web sites dont give a shit about customer relations, and sometimes waiting times can drag out for months. the only place that i use for stuff from Japan is RHDJAPAN there customer service is second to none, and there delivery times are unreal. several times i have ordered gear, ie injectors, and fpr etc on a friday lunchtime. they pack up the order imediately and post it with EMS. it then travels over the weekend and arives at my door 10 am monday morning. less then 3 days total and 2 of them are not working days. but it turns up every time. why cant australia post offer this service? its quicker to get something from Japan then it is to get something from interstate. what a joke that is.

Dyno sheet or