dangerman4

im guessing parts and labour around the $16k mark? and power around the 350kw mark.

ive sorted most of my issues so we "should" see a decent figure. in regards to your boost leeks that sounds like an excuse. last dyno day it was your clutch! just stirring.... you need a hand with anything on the day let me know.

hows the WM going Joel? do i need to up the boost?

being the waste gate is metal on metal it would either seal or not seal. so im sticking with the dump not being 100% flat and this time you have stuck just the right amount of goop in the right spot to seal the turbine from the screamer. glad its fixed either way.

can you show us a pick of your current dump pipe? ive got a gt3582r-iw which is the correct name for your turbo. and ive had it low mounted and now highmounted. never had any issues with creep and my dump pipes have all been a split design that i make myself from 316 stainless.

when the extra peice of tube was welded onto the dump flange was the flange milled flat? the heat from welding it would have worped it to some degree. and just so you know the ford xr6 gasket is stainless steel multi layer jobby that cost around $16 if your flange is flat and you run one of these you can completely remove it from the problem list.

hey Jono i used 4 stainless steel chem anchors with stainless nuts on my gt3582 with some never seize and no locking tabs. and i run up towards 2 bar and they havent come loose at all so this might be a easy solution for you. people saying use oem stuff. its impossible there too short and the nut idea from dale in fine for the nuts but as said previously i think its your studs stretching not the nuts undoing. the chem anchors i used were 12 x 100 style which is actually a 10mm threaded stud to suit a 12 mm hole + glue they have a nice little 6mm hex on the end so you can screw them in and out with ease, all you need to do is cut them to suit your length.

plan G grab a g clamp or similar contraption and clamp the sucker shut. if you remove the actuator arm at the pivot point and then wiggle the flapper to see if you can feel a happy spot where it wants to shut, then clamp it shut. this then will prove if its the gate the actuator or the dump design. i have a sneeking suspicion that is not the wastegate but the main outlet not sealing properly. due to not using a ford gasket. this copper gasket you mention is something you made or the cheap crap you get from an exhaust shop. also have you had the dump flange milled flat? come to think about it im not sure why the dump needs the peice of pipe welded on the flange as its a different hole to the wastegate you just need a propper gasket.

non stock rod and piston looks like this..

are you using a dump gasket? ie a ford xr6 gasket? that seperates the wheel from the gate?

what waste gate actuator are you running? is it the stock 8 psi one? maybe try a heavier one say 18psi. also with the flapper would it be possibe to do a 3 angle valve grind on it to increase the seating area?

some tuners have a vivid imagination, and pride themselves on making massive numbers. seen several mates cars need rebuild/s soon after. (whithin a month) and im talking forged motors not stockers. read into that what you will.

just wondering on what the manifold cost you? a merge collector would have been a nicer

everyone is saying how responsive it is! at 60kph it only has as much power as my local postie's scooter. just my view.

dual intank would be painful, just run a 040 / 044 intank with a 044 inline in front of the diff.

550 injectors will be at approx 60% duty at 250 kws running a decent pump.

why dont you guys just remove that rear water line completely. i did have it cut off with some hose pushed on to it, but i was never overly impressed with it as it didnt have a flair on the end of the steel tube, so i was allways concerned that it might blow off and then cook my motor. when i changed to a high mount i had a look at where that hose went too. and it was suprisingly easy to remove entirely. i allways thought it was near impossible to remove but took me less then 10 min. simply undo the bolt into the back of the head, and then undo the hose clamp and pull it off. you can then run a brand new piece of high temp water line around the back and into the new turb with no fear of it ever leaking. i know that sounds easy but it is tight, so a small 10mm spanner, and a long screw driver to get the clamp off, + a small pair of hands to help if you get stuck.

550's is all you need

i should also point out that you have spent prob around $7k on bolt on mods to gain 20 hp. if you put some more fuel in it to get it down under 12, and then sort out your air temps you probally havent achieved anything. Im curious as to the reasons the tuner set the AFR's to 12.5, and then told you keep it to 14 psi to keep your engine safe. whats your ignition timing doing? was he finding a lot of detenation above 14? who did the manufacturing of the plenum and exhaust manifold. you mentioned the price of them blew out a bit, have you found that you could have purchased a extreme manifold and a genuine greddy plenum cheeper then what you ended up paying? its a great feeling to get your car back on the rd im not questioning that, but the dollars you have spent arn"t on that dyno sheet.

makes cara's stickers look ordinary

sorry bazza but that graph is horrible, the power delivery and the AFR arent what i would have expected. ive just gone thru my graphs from my old gt30 and my new gt35 and at 100kph im up in the 230kw range, while your at 150hp. thats a pig. just my thoughts

I guess i fit into that here is a graph of mine with the vg30 rear, gt30 front. if you take the terrible boost curve out of the question the power curve and max isnt to bad. this was on the stock engine, with just a shift kit.

what a joke..... lol

ever heard of sarcasim sled? thats why i suggested earlier that somone else with an idea of the local area would be better suited to organise a cruise. also someone that knows how to drive on something other then the Adelaide O-Bahn.

where the hell is mclaren vale? isnt that up in the barossa somewhere? LOL.......