dangerman4

i run up to 27 psi and have no issues with blowing the spark out on standard coils! why would yours be doing this? i think you need to look elsewhere. this question is to Joel!

leave the car in 1st and floor it up to just past 7k it will start spluttering and complaining. this is your rev limiter. i dont recomend trying this in neutral. but will work the same.

full squealing of the wheels hey.... what the front ones?

well done on all the info. question time... what does your dump pipe look like now? as i have a dump pipe to suit your exact turbo for sale on ebay at the moment. the actuator you are running is that a 1 bar actuator from garrett? have you considered going higher? maybe 18psi? i ran a very similar setup 18 months ago and had similar results. same manifold similar turbo etc.

did you click on the wrong link Cara? surely you didnt mean to waste everyones download limit with the first one, and the second one wasnt much better. This may be a repost but its an example of something that everyone would find amusing.

is this a serious question? why are you removing the VCT of the intake cam?

yea sorry i didnt explain myself very well. i will try again. assume we are using a genuine nissan timing belt that has the marks on it to line up with the timing gears. if you remove the standard head gasket and chuck a 2mm head gasket in there it will lift the head higher then standard. to line the marks up with the standard timing marks on the nissan belt you will have to advance both gears 2 or 3 degrees. this will still show the gears set at zero, but compared to the crank they are not. on the other hand if you have a full rebuild and they deck both your block and head and you run a stock thicknes haed gasket, you will then have to retard your gears to set them at the standard marks. it may only be a degree or two but its still out.

you talking shit again Paul. have another try. you mean the inlet cam gear is adjustable. everyone says the poncams are best set at zero, but this is with a unopened engine. if you have decked either your block or head then the distance between teeth on the timing belt will change and therfor your cam gears will need to change to find zero again.

12 volt 50 watt HID kits. to start with im just selling H1 as they suit the high beams of r33, and most 4x4 spotlights etc, but if you want a different style let me know and i can get you a price. kits come with 2 globes, 2 ballasts and wiring kit and are the brightest kits available on the market at present. being 50 watts there approx 1.5 times brighter then 35 watt hid's and approx 5 times more lumen output then your standard halogen globes. they come with a 18 month warranty usual price $375 + delivery SAU price $325 with free delivery in SA these pics are of the kit installed on my quad with some old shitty spotlights that are only 5 inches in diameter. the light output is incredible. contact via pm if interested. cheers Darren

a simple lesson for you then jono if your going to call someone stupid read the whole thread before you make a coment on them being dumb. on this ocassion and several others i can think of in the past 12 months you have sounded like a knob. just be careful what you type and read the thread completely before you offer your opinion, and remember your opinion is not allways that of others.

gcg will post one to you for around the $200 mark (i think) for a 1 bar actuator. im sure theres turbo shops in melbourne that will have them in stock. ring around and get a few prices and then play them off against each other til you find a shop thats not going to screw you

4x4's drive on dodgy ruff dirt roads for 100 or 1000's of kays if you do a trip up north and there alternators are fine. i personally would do 10,000 km a year on dirt roads and mine still works. (work car) the guys up north drive there comodores and falcons around with no windows, timber clutches, and logs for wheels and they dont have any issues with alternators. so disrigard the fact that you were on a dirt rd

not yet. ive been looking but unable to find anything sus. my next plan was to poke a air compressor nozzle into a vacum line on the manifold and crank 30 psi into it with my hand over the afm. see what happens. under vacum it doesnt leak, so im guessing its a silicon joiner that only opens up under boost.

you just answered your own question. if you are still running the stock fpr then its standard setting is the lowest pressure you can possibly achieve. but my question to you is if you were to install a aftermarket fpr it would only be to raise fuel pressure. so why would you be worried about lowering the fuel pressure below standard? the money you spend on a new aftermarket fpr you should spend on a 044 intank and just run the standard fpr up to around 400rwkws.

calm down joel you know that wont count..... i wanna see 400kws out of your car on BW dyno. no excuses....

ive got the same issue so once you solve it can you pm me your findings. my car keeps blowing the engine control fuse under the steering wheel. so i ran a new fused + feed from the battery to the stock fuel relay and it all works perfectly. i cannot find anything else thats been effected by the EC fuse been blown. i hope that helps.

if you want it to still look stock but go a fair bit harder, pick yourself up a forklift bottom end and chuck all your top end goodies on it. that and a highflow will get you up around 230 / 250 kws, and still look like a stocker. bottom ends can be had for around the $100 mark and then find yourself a second hand rb25 highflow from the fs section, and for $1000 you will gain 75 kws. cheap power really.

normally i use grease, but if you cant find a perfect fitting bolt to bash in there try using blue tack. hasnt failed me yet. and also doesnt destroy the crank if you miss hit with the chisel idea from above..

as far as im know garrett dont make a exhaust dump gasket. So go to Ford spare parts and order a xr6 dump gasket. about $15. its identical. cheers

congrats Cara on finding something that others might find amusing. no more Harry potter shit please.

He will need something to where to pay for his new WM and clutch. Sorry Joel couldnt help myself....

you could at least make sure you ph no was correct. i would asume its 0412500318. i have a aftermarket bar going cheap

lol i thought they were fork lift motors. oh well my bad... to be honest i think she would be more concerned about you keeping up with her. but unless you have started selling yourself or won the lotto, i think im safe. and remember i lost 20 - 30 kws with the high stall, so if i was manual i would allready be at 350rwkrs. regardless i might chuck a plenum and WM on just to keep the missus happy. you coming to BW on sat?

na good on you for sticking up for the mighty nissan. somone needed to question there motives. i was wondering how you thought you would keep up with me, and now i know. WM and 2 bar.