dangerman4

as im from Adelaide and have no track to find out for myself, my r33 gtst with a fully built auto running a 3k high stall. current powers at 320rwkws. would that get me close to a 10? thanks and sorry for the hijack

cheater fuel????? if i had 100 ron i would have thrown 2 bar into her.

my r33 gtst auto is tuned to 320rwkws on shell v power. knock levels on the pfc never go above 15, at 24psi boost. due to running low on fuel i pulled into a bp that is a very high use servo and filled up with ultimate. first time i opened it up after that i seen the dash light flash, and backed off, resulting in a knock of 76. shit. i thought suerly that cant be fuel related, so a few das later i opned it up again to 19 psi and straight away i had knock up to the low 80's. the rest of the tank was used up with less then 5 psi boost. a fresh load of v power, and all happy again straight to 24 pound with knock in the low teens. enough said i think. havent touched it since.

i have a 21 foot Donzi centre consol, but lately ive been doing a fair bait of surf fishing. one of my fish from last year it took a whole 40cm mullet down its gob.

a old freind had / has a rb24 that makes over 400 rwkws running a baby t88. its the smallest t88 they make, if that makes sense. around 1.8 bar i think. until it span a bearing. totally useless to drive. nothing til 6500 7000 rpm then bang wheel spin, 9000 rpm redline, change gears. sounds tuff ass with a screamer, but as i said totally useless as a street car. my r33 with a auto could overtake him every time at 270kws. i now have 320rwks so he wouldnt have a hope. in saing that if it was for drag only, with a massive set of slicks it would be a different story.

if you have a manual bleed valve, you wouldnt have a standard boost controller solenoid, you should run one or the other, not both

i thought i would mention that my gate pipe is 2 inch, you mentioned on the last page that yours in only 1.25 inch. how big is your main turbine outlet? the flange that i have used is from HPIAB. and has a 3 inch main with a 2 inch gate. if anyone gets tempted to build another one similar to mine pm me and i can organise the componets so you can just weld it together to suit your setup. also im a little concerned about your use of mild steel for your intake pipes before your turbo. what happens when the surface rust vibrates and falls off. it will get sucked straight into the compresser wheel at some rediculas speed and work like a abrasive sand blaster on your front wheel. not to mention any getting into the engine.

until 2 weeks ago i was missing 60 rwkws due to the ebc having no power feed to the solenoid. so it looked like it was working when actually it wasnt. the power feed to the solenoid also controls your idle up solenoid, so it can also effect your afr's thats why i mentioned it

hey guys just to clarify a couple things. if you have no power to the fuel pump relay it may be because the engine control fuse under the steering wheel has blown. this is generally caused by the wires to your O2 sensor in your dump pipe earthing out on your brake lines. with mine i found that some of the insulation on the wires had cracked off due to heat and then the wires were earthing out causing the engine control fuse to blow. this also powers the idle control solenoid, and also the pfc boost controller. worth checking.

are you running a ebc? and is it working

might pay to take your car to a different tuner just for a check up as martin is known for making grenades. just be carefull is what im saying. the run isnt in shoot 6f and some of the other settings look a little funny so just be aware that his not as good as he thinks he is. at the end of the day he doesnt have to pay for your motor so what does he care. also that boost spike is a concern.

i was there from 12.15 til 3 not sure what happened with the castle meet or the habour town meet as i was at both at the designated time and didnt see anyone. o well hope there was enough support...

Hey Disco as i mentioned in my above post, i welded up the gaps from both sides with my tig then placed the xr6 gasket over the flange and traced out any exposed metal. this was then ground out to leave a purfect D shape and then the flange was decked flat. i just forgot to take a pic of the finished product so i cant show you.

room is allways an issue but this is my design using 316 mandrel bent stainless once it was all tig welded i ground out the waste gate pipe to suit the shape of the xr6 dump gasket and then decked it flat in the mill and it done. no possible restriction near the flapper, and i joined it as far as practible down the main pipe.

the plot thickens a little birdy has informed me that this is being organised by Scott fergusun from the old Tonkins rail. and im led to believe it has nothing or very little to do with the consordium of guys who will actually be funding this project. i could be wrong but thats what its looking like at the moment. i guess we will see when we get there.

11.30 sounds good see you there.

yea the stock plenum is holding me back at the moment so i may look into this down the track. if you consider the fact that its got a high stall and auto the power its producing would more likely be up in the 360rwkw area with a manual, so thats a fair amount of air for the standard intake and tb to digest. and theres allways WMI. And Krishy go back a page Cubes posted a full wrap up of results

i thought this would be the hot topic tonight yet its at the bottom of the page. wtf come on guys show a little enthusiasm. regardless i will be there.

when i left i went to the woodcroft shoping centre and quess who was there. our little willy'd soarer driver. well i think it was him anyway. same colour, mags and dumb ass exhaust hanging out the back. maybe he was hiding from the popo

you are a first class tosser. if anything you were speeding up and down the street more then the soarer. your maturity level and common sense levels were certainly shown yesterday. cause its people like you and your mate that shouldnt be licenced or at least fined heavily not poor old matty. a perfect example was when shaun asked you to turn your car around so he could put it on the dyno. you took off down the street doing 80 in a 50 zone, did a u turn came flying back up past us all went up to the roundabout, drove around it and came back and parked where you were to begin with. how is that turning your car around fool? shaun just shook his head and did it himself. so in future can u please think more when your driving, and especially when your at a organised event.

your miss informed if you think your bottom end will be safe at 300 - 330kws mine on a good tune broke ringlands at 265kws with the 3071. on a motor that only had 35k klms . so what makes you think your motor is any better? bolt the gt3582 on and when the bottom end lets go then you can change head gasketsto something more sensible

why do you want 300 - 330rwkw's? does that sound like a nice figure? personally i would choose a .82 gt3582r but expect full boost around 4000 - 4200rpm pull hard to 8k happily make 300-350kws depending on boost. gt30 is at the end of its chain working that hard, and is the same price as the gt35 so why stretch it when you can do it easily. my gt3582r-iw, with a high stall auto, is still managing 320rwkw on 23psi and no knock, on shell v power. my old gt3071 with the auto was out of puff around the 270kw mark and remember to be prepared for a $10k rebuild either way at those figures.

they were all intimidated by my wifes muppet bus.

my brother will prob bring down his supercharged pathfinder for shits and giggles.

is that all you got tangles i have more power.. just need to find some car tyres so i can run it up at boostworx..