dangerman4

check out this crazy tosser. 05 yfz450 quad with a 06 zx10r ninga engine. geared to do 230 kph at 13,000 rpm in 6th gear. standard atv has around 50 hp at the wheels and the new and improved version has around 180 hp. Needs a brake upgrade.. but a good laugh...

Full set 17x7 and 17x8 Volk Jap rims. there 5x100 stud pattern but ive got bolt on spacers to convert to 5x114.3 good offset for 32 / 33 etc has 235 and 255 tyres but fairly worn. Asking around $1K

Full set 17x7 and 17x8 Volk Jap rims. there 5x100 stud pattern but ive got bolt on spacers to convert to 5x114.3 good offset for 32 / 33 etc has 235 and 255 tyres but fairly worn. Asking around $1K

well you can chop and hack up this mild steel 4 inch bend i have and work out what wil fit then order what you need in stainless. thats what i got it for but i didnt use it so, you may as well.

engine bay is a little dirty but you get the idea.

i will go take a pic... back in a min

just a thought. my intake is the same as what your creating using 4 inch stainless. but i should mention i used a 70 degree bend not a 90 degree bend. i have a spare 70 degree bend here in 4 inch mild steel if its any use to you its yours...

sounds like your starting to drop a cylnder cracked ring lands. rebuild time.... rb's are normally very smooth at idle, could be my IT connection but i would be doing a compresion test. cheers

i have access to tig, mig , arc the lot so pm me when your ready i get good prices from BDL Holdings and AAA exhausts, so if you need mandrel bends yell out.

hmmm i dunno i know mine was brand new and it has 4 wires. wierd.....

you have issues..... at the start of this thread you were keen to get shot with paint balls.... no i can understand why....

how much tread do you want? and what are you using them for? front tyres or skids?

the new actuator you have purchased bots onto the back of the compressor housing where the bolts are. the standard one is on the front of the comp cover. so when you unbolt the standard one thro it in the bin, then undo the two bolts on your comp cover and bolt and adjust accordingly.

the new q45 AFM have 4 wires so the one you have is just the plain old 3 wire q45. Sorry to burst your bubble but its not brand new unless its been sitting around for years.

Hey Joel what acuator are you running? what psi? i run a 18 psi gcg actuator with around 3 - 4 mm of preload on the gate. works a charm... 9 mm is a little excessive so i would modify the thread to give you something to play with. i would say adding 15mm onto the male threaded section would be about spot on. Both new Garret turbos i have had the gt30 and the gt35 have both needed welding to get the actuator spot on. its not hard just quench it in water as soon as you weld it and it will stop everything melting inside. those washers look like a bad idea as the sheer stress on that will be very high. Darren

silver.. have a look at the pics in the last BSM cruise thread. theres a few pics in there..

or dangerman4.. but his is only stock...

im still on my first stall convertor... but thats right.. i keep forgetting Manuals are awesome with 300 kws... or so they say... Just stirring

hey fella Grab a 044 and head down to pirtek.they will supply you with all the fittings and non return valve to mount the 044 intank. grab a filter sock from a v8 falcon from your local parts supplier and your away.. simple common sense mod but with more flow then the 040 and wisper quiet. i have pics if your interested. Darren

well said. finding out what ignition he can run without the WI and then with the WI would be priceless. obviously every engines timing will change a degree either way but in general its the same rb doing the same revs with around the same air flow, so it should be comparable.

standard idle advance is 15 degrees i think. it will give me a ruff idea of if its a benificial mod, for the outlay and up keep. but by what you have explained it seems very cost effective way of cooling the intake charge. what WMI setup are you running? cheers

May i ask what ignition advance you are running up above 5000rpm under full load? im curious to know how much help the WMI is at curing the evil ping. im only able to run around 18 dergrees to make it to 300 kws with a gt3582-iw with a .82 ar. but thats at 22psi running the auto with a high stall. youve got me thinking that i may be able to run the WMI set up on my car to increse the ignition advance up into the low to mid 20's and with a bit of boost should see me up around the 350kw region. surely that would come close to getting me a 10 second pass. 4 Door shopping trolley FTW....

what is your fuel pressure doing? have you got a rising rate fuel pressure reg? on a stock engine being around 12 and above AFR for most of the run seems a little risky. especially running a walbro. new fuel pump is on the cards if you want your ringlands to live...

sounds like a good old Gates timing belt at it again.... change your timing belt for a new nissan one and it will solve all your probs....