dangerman4

it all comes down to practice. with the auto you need to drive thru the slide and power out the other end. while with the manual you can more play with the throttle and feed it on and off thru the corner. both work well but you need to adjust your driving accordingly. If your car will spin the wheels in drive then it becomes easier to control to a point , at which you get to much forward momentum and then that creates its own issues.

you and your mates car may need a trans service and some adjusting. the skyline should never kick back a gear unless you want it too. as i said before either by flooring it , or by slowing down to around 20kmph. If your trans is downshifting at speed with no throttle then you have some other issues that needs looking at. as suggested TPS, fluid level etc. cheers The Clown....

wrong... my s1 r33 auto has never done that once in its life, and will only kick back in gears at full throttle, or if you drop down to below about 20kmph. they are a very predictable trans and i highly rate them once there modded....

its not allways that easy. my misses takes her car shopping almost daily and im not concerned about it getting stolen in the slightest. it doesn't look like some hotted up monster just waiting to get a scratch, yet it has 300rkw. but i guess thats irrelevant. prevention is allways better then the cure... If you have a decent alarm, and dont park it in back streets where no one cares then sleep easy....

Hey Brenton i thought you said you were into farm animals not blokes..... Crikey thats a bit ruff........ what will your nanna think? i have a brother In Law that wears pink shirts if you wanna hook up.....

from getting the drivers door open 20 seconds tops..... this thing is a joke... what about prevention rather then cure????? its too late once the thieve has already smashed your door lock to bits or broken a window. assuming i was a car thieve and i spotted this contraption i would attach 1.5 m of chain to the front tow hitch on my car then crack the door open and hook it onto the lower half of the coplock and hit reverse. it will either twist the lock or the brake pedal, but either way it will come off. then the car is yours. regardless of the above its not hard to drive a car without brake's thats what the hand brake is for. i wouldn't use one if it was given to me let alone paying hard earned cash for one.... cheers Darren

Reliability wise... 300-350 = BOOM......... If you have a 100+mm FMIC and a nice exhaust manifold and even a plenum then i'd run 18 psi and around 22 / 23 degrees ignition advance will see you to 300kws if you dont have a nice I/C, manifold etc then you may need 22 - 25 psi and 17 - 19 degrees ignintion advance to make 300kws time will tell as all engines are different but that gives you something to aim at. standard cams i made 317rwks but that was up near 26-27 psi with 18 degrees ignition. But running a auto sucks some power so your outcome may differ. cheers Darren

i personally wouldn't flog the auto to death on anzac day. by all means do a run or two, but by not having a shift kit and a trans cooler your asking for trouble. each time it tries to change gears its going to shred your stock bands in the trans and cause enormous amounts of heat. especially if your already having trouble with it shifting. just be careful is all im saying otherwise you will be walking home...

my car is tuned on shell v power 98 i tried a tank of ultimate recently and its knock went from its usual max of 20 up to 70 not impressed i went back to v power and the knock stopped. havent tried boost 98 but i think its the same blend as shell with a 5% ethanol Darren

10.1 at 143mph Jays "fresh" motor is still just a stock bottom end. it goes to show that both nissan and toyota 3ltr bottom ends can pull some good numbers

it is annoying though as first gear is wheel spin time..... first 3 gears are wheel spin time......

I GOT RESULTS BACK - I am suprised with the results and Matt done a great job.... 234.9RWKW@11/12psi.( I dont know why it ran the higher psi as it has an rb20 acuator on it. Only issue I had was with the spark plugs, it was blowing out the spark at this boost level, there copper and were gapped to 1.1 now Matt regapped them to 0.65. He didnt mention anything about fuel, afm or anything and they were working quite well at this boost level.. I am curious to see what it will do when i finish what I want to do with it, just a few more minor mods. AFR's were good to between 11.8 t 12.0. Well done i like more auto's having a crack. good effort on safc etc but that turbo is certainly a pig. The Auto Hack Paul was talking about isnt realy a hack or anything technical. simply un plug the brown connector down behind the drivers side head light and it will lock the trans in 3rd gear. once your finished on the dyno plug it back in and away you go. 1st , 2nd , 3rd.. i notice your dyno was done in drive so it might explain the massive loss in midrange, as he would have to go very easy on the throttle so it dosent kick back to second. thats of course assuming he dosent know about the brown plug. attached is my old turbo and my current turbo both running rb25det auto if you compare midrange power at say 100kmph your not even close. but both runs on my car are with a PFC but i still think your turbo may be dragging its feet a little.. cheers Darren

just a shame you couldnt catch the cressida! and his engine is still running strong... just stirring... good effort.

its all about throttle control... 1/4 throttle will be very enjoyable... half throttle will be stupid and dangerous, and then theres full throttle....

Friday arvo i left sunny Adelaide for a road trip with a difference. On the net i found a complete rolling 06 model yzf450 quad in Newcastle, and a 06 model ZX10R engine in Sydney. So i figured why not. any way 36 hous later and im back home with my new toy. i drank two beers while looking at where to cut, and what would fit where, then grabbed the nine inch grinder and went for it. The pics below the motor is just sitting there, as i will have to drop it another 30mm and also move it 20mm left. but its in and wont be to hard to make work. any comments at this early stage? Cheers Darren

i wouldnt have posted in here if i found anything useful in the search function.

Hi everyone. a good mate of mine has picked up a rb30 powered gq wagon and has just put out a massive 100 hp , and 275 nm torque. now its on dual fuel so im interested in the how it would go dropping in a stock low kay rb25det in its place. has anyone experienced a turbo car on lpg before? his not looking to set land speed records or do 4 wheel drifting around the local streets, just something with more grunt yet a simple conversion. that isn't stupidly expensive. any help would be greatly appreciated. Darren

in the video they didnt show the guy hacksawing the end of the brake pedal off to remove the clamp, or grabbing onto it and swinging on it. to me it has way to much leverage to grab the top and pull it side ways. looks like a stupid idea. sit in your car with a shotgun if your to concerned..... 20 seconds i could get past that... apply winch cable / 4wd / reverse / fixed cheers Darren

i heard one of the two wanted to split it up and sub divide.. and that came from a reliable source.

im not sure myself but i was told there in the low .7 A/R area. i think the r34 and the vg30 exhaust housing are very similar if not the same thing. well seeing as the dyno is still pulling at redline i wouldnt say it ran out of top end, but if you want bigger and better then the new gt3082r-iw / gt3040r-iw internal gate is for you. reponse was fine...

yes it should be primed by removing the plug to the CAS and cranking till you see the oil pressure gauge on the dash start to move. then plug CAS back in and start. Trucks and heavy diesels need there lines primed because theres no easy way to stop them from firing when you turn them over. plus the oil feed line is a lot bigger and a lot easier to get to then our low mounts. cheers Darren

power delivery was very good thru the midrange. as you can see. the rev limiter was at 7k so halve that will give you revs at road speed i now have a forged bottom end so i went to the new gt3582r-iw with a .82 exhaust housing. but you have to remember its a auto, so that helps it spool up better. on a manual 2.5 ltr its certainly not what i would run, but the auto loves it. first tune with gt3582 317 kws at just over 24psi second dyno with poncams and fully built trans and hi stall 299.9kws at 21 psi. but im not sure if this info will help you topic or side track it further. cheers Darren

ive got a second hand one here for $625 if your keen try google and see what you find....

this was my old gt3071r-sp running a vg30 exhaust housing on a stock r33 gtst just usual mods and its an auto. i have since sold this to "Robbo" so he might be able to add some more info in regards to power from his manual 33

just seeing if anyone was paying attention.. Sorry Amanda i wasnt being harsh just having fun.... ive heard you can get white paint balls that glow in the dark for playing at night, but on a hilly course running around in the dark may be a little dodgy.. and for anyone that works on weekends, just call in a bomb threat or gas leak, and you will get sent home with pay. cheers Darren