dangerman4

I also installed a new 5 inch cat from batmbl apart from that the two runs are fairly much identical. old cat was a 3 inch "highflow" the vct wasnt touched that im aware of. im curious to what the graph will look like once this problem is resolved. old setup

no its locked in third so it cant kick back, theres nothing in the AFR curve its not ignition timing related theres nothing in the boost curve just the torque and Kw curve the 299kw run also had the high stall installed, but the trans is now due for a service. any other ideas?

can i have a pm please.

attached pics are before and after manifold / dump / O2 sensor swap. any ideas on the ski jump? its not boost related, and doesnt appear abnormal on the hand controller during the run so im thinking maybe the highstall unlocking or something?

am i one of those Darrens? just put 323kws at Boost worx this morning.

nothing special huh. so can you do a burnout in third with your manual with less then 200kws? i think you should read the crap that your dribbling before you hit "add reply". worded very poorly.

on the dyno. i didnt see anything over 16 on the way home, or this arvo, but i didnt give it much shit. my scanner isnt cooperating at the moment as ive just updated to vista and the printer didnt install properlly. its hard to uninstall something thats not on the list of installed programs. im working on it.

first post modified. i also have a issue around 5000rpm that looks nasty on the graph. not sure if its highstall related or something more sneeky. i got a graph with it at 315kws as it shows the issue clearly. this thread was to praise ETM not me winge about my cliff not being straight up. gimme a min i will scan it in.

its the auto trans computer, not the engine ecu he has just worded it poorly.

As a few of you may know i have recently had an issue with my low mount china stainless manifold trying to crack in half. i purchased it 2 years ago for $120 and hasnt missed a beat until now. ive been running the new GT3582R-IW with a 25mm spacer up to 320rwkws thru the shift kitted r33 auto, at Hi Tek dyno. 6 months ago i got the whole trans build done by MV including a 3k high stall. i also installed a set of poncams hoping for a bit more power throughout the rev range. re tune at Boostworx resulted in 299.8rwkws. (detonation was starting to show its ugly head) I was assured the missing power was from the high stall and trans build not showing the tru potential on the dyno and it certainly went well on the road so i was happy with that. now comes the cracked manifold, and a choice. i decided on the Extreme Turbo Manifold. + and got it and the exhaust housing ceramic coated black. I chose the high mount internal gate manifold and lines, and it all bolted straight on, no dramas or issues, perfect. i then had to remake my dump pipe to suit the high mount, and change a few IC piping around but it wasnt hard. i also installed a new O2 sensor in the new dump The quality of ETM work and also his customer relations was second to none, and a great turn around time as well, so 2 thumbs up from me. final result was 323rwkws at Boostworx on shell V Power with knock below 20 im also hitting full boost at close to 80kph while before it was 90kph. ETM and BoostWorx FTW

pull no 1 spaqrkplug out and use a screwdriver to confirm which line it is for yourself.

make an offer around the $300 range and its yours.

NTK ones to suit r33 are less then $80 i just bought one.

pics added

i asume thats a crack at me.... Ignorant hey... Sorry i havent read the full right up that you did when you installed a power fc into your S1 r33 gtst. i must have missed you finding's, showing the trans to change gears at random and be really harsh on changes. If you could kindly guide me to your own threads about the topic with proof, then i will axcept your critisism and move on, unfortunately its knobs like you that spread rumors and bad ideas about things you have absolutely no idea about. ive been there and done that for several years now, starting from completely stock to up over 300 kws thru the r33 auto. the trans is serviced regurally by Mike from MV Automatics, and hasnt missed a beat. 12 months ago mike stripped my working trans and did the whole trans upgrade with a high stall. Internally he couldnt fault the box, and it showed no signs of exsessive heat or damage from running over 300kws on a daily basis, controlled by the PFC. most people miss the whole point of running a PFC with an auto. yes on a stock trans, with stock shift kit the gear changes may be ever so slightly harsher. but generally speaking if someone is installing a PFC then they are allready up around the 180 - 200kw range, and would allready have a shift kit installed. so the shifts are nice and crisp regardless of ecu.

its all bullshit started by manual drivers. For the S1 at least, dont know about the sries 2 search for my previous topics and have a read.

the run was done in 3rd gear. theres no spikes where it changed gear so that tells me that the tuner doesnt know about the magic brown plug, and hence he has slowly built the speed up past the point of no return for second gear and then he has planted it. behind the driver side head light there is a group of electrical conectors. find the brown one and unplug it. this will lock the car in drive, so the tuner can then load up the car throughout the whole rev range without it kicking back to second and trying to kill everyone. aprt from that power is ok but not great. i had 187 from stock computer, stock auto. sell the emanage and put a power fc on it...

ive been running over 300rwkws for around 12 months on stock r33 s1 coils.

i will chuck some pics up tomorrow.

rb25det custom stainless dump pipe, turbo to cat to suit new GT3582R-IW and i think the new GT30-IW aswell. suits standard low mount position of either standard manifold or chinese stainless low mount. 3 inch main pipe with 2 inch wastegate pipe, fully wrapped in heat proof fiberglass wrapping from end to end. comes with low kay stock ox sensor dynoed to 320 kws with a auto trans also have stainless oil feed and drain + 25mm spacer so suit the t3 flange. will also suit xr6 turbo. $300 cheers Darren

rb25det custom stainless dump pipe, turbo to cat to suit new GT3582R-IW and i think the new GT30-IW aswell. suits standard low mount position of either standard manifold or chinese stainless low mount. 3 inch main pipe with 2 inch wastegate pipe, fully wrapped in heat proof fiberglass wrapping from end to end. comes with low kay stock ox sensor dynoed to 320 kws with a auto trans also have stainless oil feed and drain + 25mm spacer so suit the t3 flange. will also suit xr6 turbo. $400 cheers Darren

shouldnt you have asked this question before buying and installing the new pump?

Dodgy huh... how often are you planning on looking at your fuel pump? once its installed who cares what it looks like! have you got a pic of your non dodgy wet suit rubber install? the hose i have used is 100% fuel and chemical rated inside and out. that's why Pirtek sold it to me. cost $2 why would you try and use wet suit material when you can get proper fuel hose?

you should buy a Lada Niva 4wd and put your ca18de into it. that way you will have traction for the drags and will please the crowd at the burnout comps.

the question is why didnt you inspect the manifold upon receiving it in the post? the first thing you should have done is inspect it for transit damage, and or faulty manufacture. then you could have sent it straight back. im with nismoid on this one, you got screwed, but the only person to blame is yourself for not looking properly to begin with. get it welded up and then reshape it with a die grinder and move on.