conan7772

Picking up a 2nd hand Nismo 1.5way next Jan and would prefer to take my car directly to the specialist, rather have a middle man remove my diff, send it off, have the centres replaces, have it sent back, then re-installed and filled with oil. I'd probably save $$$ dropping the car off. What's roughly this gonna cost me for R33 GTS-T, The Nismo is still inside an S15 diff housing and looks like it's done very little work. Any recommendations please. Cheers.

Has anyone tried running completely unvented ? How much pressure is really going to build up? Strong enough to blow gaskets ? I have RB25/30 Tomei 1.5mm restrictors front and rear, VVT left as is, and N1 pump, no rear drain. I may consider running my pcv directly unvented to my dipstick. After turn 1 at Eastern Creek, I had nothing on decel, but once I booted it to turn 2, I had a continuous plume all the way to the turn. I'm assuming the pcv outlet is the culprit for the oil spew into the plenum. I'd be hesitant to say with all the oil pressed against the front right corner that spewed through the bridge, and up through the s bend into the intake. Another thing that satisfies this is that my BOV is uphill from the intercooler as least 30mm, so when parked the oil must have run down from the plenum. After the 10 min session I observed atleast 70mm oil drop out of my undermount BOV. Now the intake side breather. Take the left side rocker off. What about fitting another breather entry at the rear directly over the main oil drain. Then leaving the left to right bridge pipe in tact, bridge another from front to rear, left rocker only. If the head is full of oil , on decel it'll be all at the front, and either go down the pcv to the sump(RHS) or spew back through the new bridge directly into the rear internal drain(LHS). How does Nissan deal with blow by in the VR38DETT as it's under a pressurised lubrication system ? It's described as 'pressurised' not vacuum so I'm assuming it's positive. Still not convinced with catch cans. Cheers. I'm not a mechanic so don't bite my head off. But my instinct tells me laundry hoses are not the final chapter for the infamous RB !

Come on guys. 23 years of developing RB engines and we're forced to run butt ugly laundry hoses from corner to corner across our engine bays ! Most of our engine bays looked better than our wives before this S... started. Come on guys, think. There's gotta be a better way out of this for those of us poor souls whom built engines before this was COMMON knowledge.

Hi, Currently running 570cc injectors in an RB25/30 with 337 kw at 93 % GT3076R at 22 psi, but can get 24 maybe 25 out of it. But need to change to 750cc 14mm injectors. Will this affect normal fuel consumption as a daily driver and have any negative results with response down low and idle etc. Thanks.

Here's the large can fitted.

Hey Lithium has that box arrived yet. Looking forward to your results after the rigmarole you've had with prv's and ebc's and so on.

Currently running an RB25/30 with stock transmissions. Have a heavy duty clutch kit and still holding well. 337 rwkw and 1120 Nm of tractive torque. 520 Nm engine torque. What's the limit of the gearbox, prop shaft, stock diff and axles. I'm soon to fit a used Nismo Pro GT 1.5 way. What can these withstand ? I know fatigue plays a part, and numerous articles say the Skyline drivetrain can withstand 1000bhp, which I doubt somewhat. Some idea would be cool, trying to avoid a tow from track days. Cheers.

No mate, send ATP an email to sales, say that you want this item and ask for a standard freight to Australia. Forget tracking or registered postage. It's only an $60 item I mentioned the excessive shipping for such a small item and they returned to me with $20 US for shipping. Ask for a full invoice with instructions for payment and that's it. Large can holds higher boost pressures more accurately, provides better response and tunability. You won't be disappointed and the cost is bugger all. Took 10 days to arrive. We can tune it from 14 to 24 psi flat line. That's pretty damn good tunability for an actuator. We had to cut the straight rod and re-thread it to connect to my waste gate lever. I'll take some pics tomorrow...

Yeah cool vid indeed. Would like to see more of the girls though.

Yeah it's totally universal. Goto ATP Turbo.com search 18 psi actuator item is WGT-022

$59 US plus $20 freight from the states. Couldn't find any in Oz ATP have em. Rated at 18psi but we can dial it down to 14. The large can is better for response and tunability.

PROBLEM SOLVED Large can actuator fitted. Had to re-thread it to attach it to my lever. No big deal. Holding 22 psi flat as f$#@ Could get 24 out of it but injectors are maxed. Full boost also 700 rpm sooner than before, response is just brilliant. 336.7 rwkw and 1120 Nm Gets up and goes like a 15 year old boy havin his first root.

Now have 337 kw and 1120 Nm of tractive torque all thanks to large can 18 psi actuator Full boost 700 rpm earlier than before.

Combo is perfect for me. You can drive conservatively and the car is quiet. Engine and exhaust noise is very low until you hammer it, then it just whistles and growls. The response is just where I want it with that power. Boost comes on hard and she's quite an animal to drive. With street tyres and stock diff it's a little unpredictable with traction loss. Some times the diff holds and she'll stay straight, other times I'm facing the footpath. I've got a Nismo Pro 1.5 on hold, just waiting for some more money. This turbo is definitely the right choice for 330kw mark. NYTSKY and Disco are right in suggesting the larger A/R rear. I reckon the 1.06 and 650cc injectors would see the most out of the 3076R on the RB25/30 but every day fuel consumption might be compromised a little. I still get 110 km per 10 litres with 336kw. How cool is that ? Wouldn't trade it for anything else.

Try and get a Series 2 box from an RB25DET. Some improvements were made and they're stronger.

Just finished a re-tune with my RB25/30 with the new GT3076R. With the new actuator, it's peaked at 336 rwkw and 1120 Nm. So far I have a heavy duty clutch kit, series 2 gearbox and a standard viscous diff. Everything except the diff is doing its job well. Single spinning a fair bit now. Just curious, if I switch to semi-slicks , should I expect anything to break ? Wear and tear is one thing, but with this torque I don't know. Cheers.

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Don't forget defecting is a Registration related problem Don't be afraid to dispute it. Go to the RTA website for PDF's Click Registration Click Useful Downloads - Vehicle Standards Then search for the specific regulation you require. You'll eventually find it in there somewhere.

First, learn the regulations and don't forget your rights. You'll be surprised how often the cops get it wrong. The RTA has these downloadable in PDF but you gotta dig deep to find them. Go to RTA website, Click Registration Click Useful Downloads - Vehicle standards. Then search your individual defected item. You'll eventually find a relative regulation. If you're in the right, go to court and dispute it. As for mufflers, did the cops take a Db reading ? If they didn't, then how do they know it's illegal. I got pinged for my front rego plate being on a slant, but it WAS within 45 degrees and conformed. I took a day off work, disputed it, and won. No court costs. The cops in court didn't even know the regulation themselves and the judge was pissed off at them ! Don't let them give you a track record. Every time they check your rego, it'll all show up and they'll never leave you alone.

I've noticed on my GCG supplied GT3076R 0.82 AR IW, that the rod connecting to the waste gate lever isn't dead square or perpendicular to the can. I don't exactly know how these diaphragms work and my question is: Does this effect the operation in any way ? I currently have boost drop issues . This actuator is only the 7psi one, I'm waiting on the 18psi large can from the States and want to make sure it's installed properly. Cheers

Garrett rate the 3076 at 525 hp max. From what I've read, the 3071 is a bit of a dog. Go the 3076 with the 0.63 AR. Also go ext waste if you can, otherwise specify the 18 psi actuator. I've got 555 now but expect to get 600 out of it that's for sure. Always get the most out of life, isn't that what Mum and Dad taught us ? If it blows, just get a GT4088R !

Just ordered the 18psi Large can Garrett actuator from ATP. Currently 310 rwkw with GT3076R RB25/30 555 cc injectors, 256 Poncams, 044, Haltech S2000, Plasmaman 72mm TB Anyone wanna predict the kws with an extra 6 or 7 psi.

Gotta agree with you there. Haven't been very user friendly in the past. There's very few tuners out there that understand and are capable of tuning an engine to its optimum with a Haltech. An example is my R33 GTS-T which when I bought it had the Haltech E6K, GCG high flow, FMIC, and an improved fuel pump. The previous owner had all the fuel maps wrong and she only pulled 189 flywheel kw. (stockish power!) I had it tuned by Justin at Tweakit, and came back at 247 fwkw. Not a bad increase just from a tune !. Had to start from scratch ,load a new base map and take it from there. Lucky for me, Justin used to work for Haltech for years, that's why Tweakit promote Haltech as their preferred ECU. I've got the Platinum now as it supports full sequential ignition as the E6K only supported semi-sequential for 6 cylinders and was limited with Injector, Cams and Turbo upgrade. Now pushing 310 rwkw and fuel economy has never been better ! 555 bhp and still getting 120km per 10 litres fuel on the freeway. It's all in the tune...

Anyone fitted the HKS actuator to one of these ? Any better than the Garrett 18psi large can. Nengun have a small range of high boost actuators. All a bit pricey though. I've decided to go the 18psi unit as I never really ever turn it down. Also wouldn't mind it to come on a little earlier. Again Haltech controls it closed loop. Cheers

What RPM is your peak boost?