Merli

Terry, As Funky said, you'll gain about 10-15rwkw from a full exhaust, and because it's more free flowing, it poses less of a restriction, so the turbo does make a bit more boost (1-2psi more). S-AFC (Super - Air Flow Convertor) allows you to tune your air fuel ratios. What does this mean? Well there is a magical ratio between air and fuel, that gives you the most power. Too little air, and your engine loses power and detonates (bad thing). Too much fuel, and your engine loses power too, but it protects the engine somewhat from detonation. From factory, Nissan tunes the cars to run rich (too much fuel) to protect the engine, but this robs the engine of power. They are WAY too conservative with their tuning, and by using an S-AFC, you can "correct" the fuel map in your car so you lean it out a bit and gain somewhere between 10-20rwkw with it. The other thing you can adjust is the ignition timing map, but you'll need to get a PowerFC for that, which can do BOTH the fuel and ignition timing maps, making the S-AFC redundant, so choose carefully, and choose once The biggest cost in modifying cars is buying the wrong thing, then having to replace it later.

You've got it the wrong way around funky... 35% tint means you're letting in 35% of light. 5% tint means you're letting in 5% of light. All european cars come with factory tinted glass, that is, the GLASS ITSELF is tinted, like you're talking about above. But they all have a 35% tint option off the showroom floor, and they just slap a 35% tint on there, making it darker than 35% permitted light. I think the actual limit is 30%, which is why most window tinting places sell 35% tint, to take the factory glass tinting into account.

Tell them they have exactly 1 month to organise the front two rollers for the dyno

Well lets see the video then

How am I supposed to know the prices? Is it really that hard to pick up the phone and ring them? It'll take all of 30 seconds!!

S-Type Kit

R-Type Kit (Includes Oil Filter Relocation Kit)

On the BD4s Website: Oil coolers available in Type S from $1056 and Type R from $1628. (Take an additional 20% off these prices) I assume those are generic kits that will suit any Nissan, and are mounted in front of the radiator. Car-specific kits, where you mount them in the passenger guard corner, and comes with metal air guides like those pictured above, will be considerably more expensive due to increased braided line lengths ($$$) and other shiny stuff BTW, the left image is a R-Type kit for an S15, and the right image is a S-Type for a BCNR33.

Guys, Paul from BD4s asked me to pass on the message that as a Christmas/New Years offer, he'll give any SAU Forum member 20% off any HKS Oil Cooler Kit for their car. This is an ABSOLUTE MUST if you're planning to do any hard driving this summer!!! 20% off any HKS Oil Cooler Christmas/New Year Special (Until end of January) http://www.hks-power.co.jp/products/coolin.../oilcooler.html Ask for Paul Brell: BD4s Motorsports 27 College St, Gladesville, NSW Ph: (02) 9879 3322

Guys, Paul from BD4s asked me to pass on the message that as a Christmas/New Years offer, he'll give any SAU Forum member 20% off any HKS Oil Cooler Kit for their car. This is an ABSOLUTE MUST if you're planning to do any hard driving this summer!!! 20% off any HKS Oil Cooler Christmas/New Year Special (Until end of January) http://www.hks-power.co.jp/products/coolin.../oilcooler.html Ask for Paul Brell: BD4s Motorsport 27 College St, Gladesville, NSW Ph: (02) 9879 3322

I think you underestimated the size of Japanese "prefectures"

Okay... I see what you guys are saying now, and I agree.

erm.... Actually it was 600.1kw @ all four Mods: HKS FCon-V, APEXi Pods, APEXi Cat back, 1.0 bar boost

After watching RH9 on the dyno spin up 400+kw @ wheels, and a lot of teasing by the GTR crew at CRD, I did a 2 minute burnout in my 280rwkw GTS-t whilst it was being filmed... More smoke than you could ever imagine, I even melted the asphalt under both tyres. Cost me about $200 in semi slick tyres (18" Dunlop D01Js), only to have the video accidentally filmed over later, and I never got to see it

UpGarage has a website here: http://www.upgarage.com/index.html And a list of all their stores here: http://www.upgarage.com/store/index.html

Yes, everything you said is true, but I still stand by my claim that injecting the water further up the intake piping will give it more time to effect it's intake charge temperature drop, rather than an instantaneous conversion from liquid -> gas if you were to squirt it down the runners. Also atomised water will absorb a lot more heat than a "solid jet of water", as it has a lot more surface area. Using fuel injectors will not achieve this at all.

It increases the density of the charge by lowering the temperature of the air. That's all. So if you're not taking full effect of the cooling (e.g. by injecting the water down the runners), you're not increasing the density of the charge as much as you could be, in turn you won't be able to increase boost or advance timing as much as you could be.

Intake charge cooling is DEFINITELY one of the benefits of water injection, and not taking advantage of it would be quite silly. As you can see, each stage of the water changing from liquid to gas absorbs heat, and this takes time. There isn't enough time to fully realise the full effect of water injection if you inject the water straight down the runners.

NOOOOOOOOOOO!!! Not purple dammit!!!!!

Actually it was only used on the "40th Anniversary R33 GTS-25t" models, released in 1998. Not sure how many were produced. Dammit, it's supposed to be a GTR only colour :grumble:

A couple of questions. Why use fuel injectors at all? Besides all the obvious corrosion problems, they won't finely atomise the water at all, which is a primary goal when designing a water injection system. The only reason I could see for using fuel injectors like you are talking about is if you were to use 6 of them and plumb them into the runners, secondary set of injectors-style. But this doesn't work either as you need to inject the water far enough up the intake piping for it to absorb the heat from the intake air, heat up as it travels along the intake piping until it hits the cylinders where it turns to steam. Somewhere between "before the turbo compressor", to "just after the intercooler" is best. Injecting it straight down the runners won't work at all.

4 sets of R33 GTR wheels?!?! What the gay???