Merli

I will definitely come as part of SAU under the club banner... Reserve me a spot by the winners podium

Thanks again Sydneykid, Yup, I know about the larger oil pump drive on the R33/R34 cranks, and seeing that I have an R33, I would have assumed a JUN pump would have bolted on, hence my surprise when CRD told me it wouldn't! Oh well.. Great news about the NISMO pump, hopefully I can source one of those for a decent price. Cheers! Andrew.

Thanks Sydneykid... Yes, I have been convinced to do a sump extension. I initally didn't want to, as that meant another week off the road, and I need this car to get around, so I wanted as little shop time as possible... But explained quite simply: Standard - 150rwkw - 5 Litre Sump After - 300rwkw + gas - 5 Litre Sump. Not the best thing for reliability, so yes, I will be getting a sump extension, to hopefully 7.5 litres, and of course baffle plates. Thanks for the info on the N1 and HKS oil pumps. I assume the JUN, Nismo and GREX oil pumps will all have similar flow rates and running pressure as the HKS one... I also heard that the JUN oil pump won't bolt onto the standard crank, and needs the JUN crank?!?!?! That didn't make any sense to me whatsoever, but it came from CRD, the JUN distributors, so who am I to argue? I found these figures for the HKS pump in the HKS Goodsmaster: rpm STD HKS 600 3.7 5.0 2000 12.9 17.3 6000 39.9 53.1 The figures for the stock pump differ from what JUN claim (posted in the first post)... Interesting I also found the price of the HKS oil pump, being 159,600 Yen, which works out to be $2050 at the current exchange rate, without shipping!!!! HOLY CRAP! I might opt for the NISMO oil pump then, if it has similar flow/pressure to the HKS one, as that's sure to be a bolt-on... Thanks for the help so far guys, much appreciated!

I would even venture to say it would be near impossible for a street car to beat it. Stock busa does low-mid 10s... What would a worked (turbocharged, etc) busa run? mid-high 8s? low 9s? How many 8 seconds cars do you know? Now ask yourself how many of them are true "street cars"? But the thing is, with bikes that quick and powerful, there aren't that many riders out there that can launch them at their full potential, as they're scared of flipping the thing, or flying off the back.... and rightly so! I'd wet myself piloting a busa down the 1/4 mile, let alone a turbocharged one!!!!

Forget the ETs, you obviously need launching practice (judging by your excessive wheelspin off the line)... The ETs are not indicative of which car is faster. Post up the terminal speeds of both cars and the 60' footers for us

Of course a street registered car is capable of beating a Hayabusa. It all depends on how much money you have to sink into the car. Oh, and just because it's street registered, doesn't mean it's street LEGAL, which it won't be. Anyway, this is comparing a HEAVILY, HEAVILY modified car vs. Stock Hayabusa. How about a modified street car vs. modified Hayabusa? Bye Bye Mr. Street Car

Awesome work mate! Chalk me down for on R33 GTR (BCNR33) harness I just donated $100 to the forums yesterday, do I still have to donate the $5?

Ed, feel free to try it on your R34 and get back to me

Excellent point... Anyone have any idea on this? Dundan: Cheers mate, I'll shoot him a PM.

Tiptronic is useless around a racetrack. Too slow to react, and it seems like it has badly chosen gear ratios judging by Rick Shaw's comments. Don't listen to anyone who tells you that SAS dyno reads low. I've had my car dynoed at C&V, CRD and SAS all within about a month of each other and the readings were within 5kw of each other. From memory: C&V - 264rwkw @ 1.1 bar CRD - 279rwkw @ 1.2 bar SAS - 274rwkw @ 1.2 bar So if your cousin's car only made 155kw @ wheels, then that is a HUGE power difference. Oran Park is a great racetrack. It has an excellent mixture of tight corners, weight swapping flip-flops and decent straights for those top end monsters to make up ground. Just because your cousin has expensive Tein suspension, doesn't automatically make the car handle better. What about sway bars? upper arms? control arm? castor rods? tie rods? What were his alignment settings? It doesn't magically appear, you have to take the time to setup the car to your driving style. What about tyres? Did your cousin spend all his money on shiny DriftRs and then put crappy Falken tyres on there that are useless for trackwork? One last thing, is that with those mods, your cousin should be running higher boost. I'd run 1.0 bar... I know that people say that the R34 turbo is weaker than the R33 and R32 turbos, but I haven't heard any first hand evidence to prove that... only hearsay Why don't you convince your cousin to find out? Cliffnotes: tiptronic = teh lose.

Seeing that they're 10,000 yen for all Skyline models except for non-GTR R34 flavours (which are 12,000 yen), if you can get it down to $200 delivered for an R33 GTR harness, I'll take one. http://www.field-net.co.jp/lineup/onetouch/op.html All Skylines except non-GTR R34s 　CN-2 10,000 Yen Non-GTR R34s CN-10 12,000 Yen P.S. Good discounts are available when you buy more than one of each type: http://exa.biz/shouhin/store_onetouch_2.html

Thanks for the replies so far guys... Kinks: A standard RB26 pumps too much oil up around the camshafts at high rpm, which doesn't leave enough oil down in the sump and can lead to oil starvation during high cornering loads at high rpm, even with sump baffle plates. (i.e. track situations) An oil gallery restrictor restricts how much oil is pumped around the head and leaves more in the sump. Japtaxi: Sean was pretty vague in his reply, and we all know Mario is very biased towards JUN ... Having personally visited JUN's workshop and smelting house in Saitama, Japan, I can say without a doubt that Mario is founded in his beliefs that they produce nothing but the best goods and have the equipment to do the best R&D for their products. However, for the person on a tighter budget, I cannot just jump for the "best option", more so, I have to think of the "best option for my needs", which makes my choice a little harder If Sean is correct that an N1 oil pump is nothing more than a standard pump with a stronger spring, I don't feel that that is a worthwhile upgrade, and I will need to look at spending that extra money (sigh) for a different pump... I have JUN sump baffle plates sitting here, so I'm not worried about oil starvation due to oil movement... Does anyone else have any more experience/information they can share with me on this?

So I want to upgrade my oil pump. I don't want any oil starvation issues with this engine. Yes, I have baffle plates and upper oil gallery restrictor already sorted... Last thing I need to organise is an oil pump. So an N1 oil pump brand new from Nissan is about $500-ish... Why is the NISMO oil pump for RB26 so much more expensive? The NISMO, Jun, GREX, HKS are all about $1200-$1400... Has anyone got any flow rates for the N1 oil pump? Here are the flow rates for the standard oil pump and the JUN one. rpm STD JUN 600 4.4 5.5 2000 15.2 19.5 6000 46.7 58.9 Is the N1 pump that much more inferior to these more expensive ones? I assumed that the N1 oil pump would be better than the NISMO one... I guess not judging by the price?

Boss Coffee > *.coffee :) Vending machines ROCK Great in winter too... Hold it in your hands for 10 minutes whilst waiting for the train to warm yourself up, and then drink it!

Very very very loud.... And it comes out on an angle

dam ay? ur 19 an u stil cunnt speel proparlee? auztralean edumacation sistem iz a jok.

Cliffnotes?

MUCH better Ed!

@ all the yellow fever white boys

How about some kinds of indication on how much you were willing to spend... That'll narrow down the field a bit. e.g. I have an HKS EVC 1 that I'm willing to sell for about $250, but you might be looking for the latest and greatest for $1000+?

Fixed

I might post a few photos of mine from Japan

Pocari Sweat is an Isotonic Sports Drink that is very popular in Japan It tastes like CRAP