Merli

Seriously... That's like a Mastercard ad gone wrong!!! Fuel rail - $930 Motec - $4070 Tune - $900-$1200 The look on your face when you realise you've just been violated anally by a 5" MRT cat-back exhaust - $PRICELESS.

CTN? Search google for "CTN wheels" and see what you can come up with.

They look like Altstadt copies. Why don't you tell us the brand printed on that centre cap to reduce the amount of guessing?

I'm sorry................. WHAT?!? These guys are paying $6000 for a fuel rail, ECU and tune?!?!? WHAT IN THE HELL ARE THEY SMOKING?!? $4070 ECU to make 155kw?!?! Maybe if they were making Rigoli or C&V Power out of their rexes, but 155kw?!?! Are they stupid or just insane?!?!

HAHAHAHAHAHAHA... You g33k Brendan!! Actually, pipes are used to denote "or", so it would be: GT(S|T)[-t] :Oops: :Oops:

Okay, Jay explained it quite nicely, but I'll add a little more info. The ECU doesn't control the ATESSA. Rather, it has it's own computer that detects when the rear wheels spin. Depending on the amount of spinning, the ATESSA computer pushes, what is effectively another multiplate clutch system together, which engages the front wheels. Simple, but so effective. To answer your dyno question, it's pretty straight forward if you think about it. The person driving the car puts it in first gear, gives it some revs and lets out the clutch like he's taking off normally. At this stage, the rear wheels are the only driving wheels. IMMEDIATELY, the ATESSA computer detects that the rear wheels are the only ones spinning!!! It thinks it's wheelspinning, so it does what it's supposed to do, and it activates the front transfer case and engages the front wheels! Pretty simple right? It all happens so quickly, to the casual observer it seems like all four wheels spin immediately, but next time, have a closer look, and you'll see the rear wheels start turning first, and then a few milliseconds later, the front wheels start turning too Hope that helps, Andrew.

HAHAHAHA you wanker

Pics would be great, along with a photo of the side of the box with the Bosch part number! [email protected] cheers, Andrew.

So it's brand new? Still in the sealed plastic that it comes in? Pics? If so, I'll take it.

As mentioned in the old thread, awaiting a kit for an R33 GTR.

Perhaps make this poll with checkboxes instead of radio buttons? Most immaculate car. Biggest boobies. Biggest turbo. Bling Bling Bitch. Best Midnight Purple R33 GTR VSpec

I don't know all the details, and I'm not taking any sides because of that. But let me ask this: How long was the stretch of road from where you started overtaking, to the crest of the hill? How sharp was the crest? How steep were either sides of the hill? Could you see down the other side of the hill before you go over the crest? What if a P-plater came flying over that hill at 50-60km/h? Do you think he would have been able to stop in time before landing on your bonnet and his engine in your lap? The only reason I ask this is because there's a hill near my place which has steep gradients on both sides, and people FLY over the crest and often grab a bit of air before plunking down on the other side and swerving back into control. If someone were to try and overtake there, it would be suicide. But yes, it's entirely possible that you encountered overzealous cops...

So................................ Can you tell us where you got yours done then?

Attack? What attack? I was just re-iterating our conversation in case you didn't remember parts of it. I did read, but you weren't exactly clear on how or when you swapped out the stock ecu for the PowerFC, and what conditions your "test" was done... My method of troubleshooting rules out any other external influences and is a straight out troubleshooting test. You didn't say whether you did it like that, or had the stock ECU in for a a year, put in your new clutch and at the same time swapped out for the PowerFC, whatever... So I was making sure it was a controlled test and ruled out any other changes that might have possibly affected the HICAS. If you don't want my help, that's fine.

Noticeably slower than the skylines... I was taking photos all day, and lap after lap I could see the order of cars changing that the XR6Ts were obviously getting overtaken by all the other cars... Could just be inexperienced drivers? Or they might have been taking it easier? Too many factors to take into account really... But yeah, they were definitely a little slower than the other cars out there, but still pretty good! (They were stock too)

Some more photos here: http://www.gavincato.com/frankster/wp_27nov03 http://www.markpakula.com/skywp/

Yeah... I was just learning how to use my new camera, so the pics aren't as good as they should be Anyway, here they are: http://www.andrewho.com/photos/wakefield

As I've said before, The Active LSD has it's own computer next to the battery in the boot. I don't see how it can have anything to do with the PowerFC. Are you sure the problem lies with the PowerFC? Have you actually sat there and done this? Step 1. PowerFC plugged in. Drive around. A-LSD light comes one and indicates a fault Step 2. Take out PowerFC. Put in Stock ECU. Step 3. Drive around.... No more errors. Step 4. Put PowerFC back in again. Step 5. Drive around... Error comes back again. You're a computer geek... This is basic troubleshooting that I assume you have done............... RIGHT?? :shake: If so, then the fault is definitely with the PowerFC (and I'm still unsure why, as it has no bearing on the A-LSD. Next step, as I already told you, was to grab another KNOWN GOOD PowerFC, and plug it into your car.

Excellent! Thanks for not being a d1ck about this...

Sorry Simon :bahaha: It's true that dual solenoid EBCs like the GReddy Profec B, Blitz SBC-ID or HKS EVC4 will control boost slightly better than a single solenoid EBC like the APEXi AVC-R or Boost Kit for PowerFC. Although that may be the case, but if the Apexi EBC is crappy for having only one solenoid, where does that leave the bleed valve? There is nothing inherently wrong with bleed valves. They'll increase your boost, albeit a little slower than an EBC and spike at little more, but I appreciate that you want the best for your car, and that's why I proposed the EBC Secondly, turbocharged cars rely on the biggest, free flowing exhaust possible to reduce backpressure so the exhaust wheel isn't restricted at all and can spin as fast as possible, creating more boost and increasing efficiency. To this end, it is better to replace your entire exhaust, turbo-back with a larger diameter exhaust, including the cat with a high-flow item. If you see the dump pipes off a GTR, you can immediately see how restrictive they can be compared to, say, HKS dump pipes. Cheers, Andrew.

Kristian, I realise that you wouldn't appreciate my post. That's obvious. But please realise that it isn't a malicious post to try and stop you from your sale. Rather, it is a post to try and stop somebody buying goods that aren't as advertised. We've had issues with people selling "HKS" or "NISMO N1" turbos on here before that have turned out (after some investigation into A/R ratios and photo evidence) that they were standard turbos. Can you imagine if you had bought those turbos under false advertising? As I said in my post in this case, I AM NOT SURE, and this intercooler could very well be from an older range, but it is most definitely not from their current lineup. Secondly, All HKS parts I have seen have HKS cast into the part, whether it be on the dump pipe, intercooler end tanks, exhaust, etc... Is this stamped/cast with HKS? If this genuinely is an HKS product, you should be able to prove it (easily, since you are a business and all, and have access to much more data than the average bloke) and this thread can move on without any drama! Cheers, Andrew.

Can I please suggest an electronic boost controller? It will help you turbos spool up much faster as it doesn't leak air going to the wastegate actuators before peak boost is reached like bleed valves like to do... Also a nice set of dump pipes off the turbos are always good too!

I'm sorry if this contravenes forums rules... Moderators, please feel free to do what you will to to this post. But I feel that this is not an HKS intercooler. It is unlike ANY HKS intercooler in their current range... It's a different design, and all current range HKS intercoolers are polished. I may be wrong and this may be an older HKS release, but I guess I just don't want anyone to buy this as an HKS intercooler if it isn't one. Cheers, Andrew.