CruiseLiner

trust me guys photos can make the dodgy shit paint jobs look good and i bet they took 100 photos and only used the 3 or 4 cause they didnt show the roughness, especially being black. ive seen plenty of peoples cars in photos look really clean and see em in person and they are shocking

worth a look for anyone wanting one http://www.j-spec.com.au/list/index.php?ID=6623

wheres that welder gone

honestly who gives a shit what the car is as long as it goes. ive spent a fortune on the engine and its just not suitable for daily use in the stagea (plus the 1700kg weight factor). so i want a cheap drag/drift car. i dont want to spend $8-10K just on a shell for thrashing at the track, its gonna be a track only car and for abit of fun. the cheaper the better in my opinion i paid more for the t04z then i want to spend on the entire shell, but thats because i put performance way before having a bling bling car and fancy rims/paint job wait till u see a shitty lookin r31 running big numbers down the strip then it will turn some heads 10 second quarters is the aim and as long as the driveline holds up i cant see any problems

how much is it for a 4wd sump adaptor?? how much do the prices vary? i know RIPS in NZ make em and one guy on here (forgot his nickname) and sydneykid said his fabricator makes them. i want one that fits first time with no mods at all. also could i use my rb26 power fc djetro on a rb26 head/rb30 bottom end? how do i go with the difference in knock sensors on the rb30 bottom end? do the rb30s use 1 or 2 knock sensors? cheers Brad

hey guys cheers for all the info, i knew just the mention of a 31 and fatz and nismoid are in the thread in the blink of an eye, haha, ok to get started i dont want to spend heaps on a shell its only a drift hack and drag hack to run some good times down the strip and smash panels on the track. thats the reason i want an aussie 31, i know they dont look anywhere near as good as the 2 door hr31's but i aint a billionaire and im talking around 2k max for a shell. shit paint and dodgy panels i dont really care i just wanna be able to use my rb27 to its limit ill also be gutting the interior completely to save weight. now i havent actually checked the going rate of aussie 31's but im sure they aint as dear as the import ones. so does the s13 suspension gear still fit on the aussie 31's? so if i just buy a set of s13 coilovers they will bolt str8 on? whats the diff like for holding power and are they LSD ? or do i need a r200 gtr diff or something to handle it? do they fit str8 in the r31 diff housing or do i need to change the whole diff? how much do they weigh stock? and how much totally stripped out (one seat and a few gauges and thats it)? so the plan is so far.... r31 shell my rb27 engine get a rb25 gearbox r32 gtr speedo drive rb25 yoke modified tailshaft (which model do i use?) autronics smc ecu i got r34 brembo front calipers and dba 330mm rotors sitting in my room, will they bolt str8 on? some sort of rollcage how about the stock radiator is that ok to use? ill definately get a rb26 sump and modify it (damn i just sold my spare one about 3 weeks ago ) aussie 31's dont have HICAS do they? does the power steering pump bolt str8 on? need some slicks for the drags too as i plan on setting it up for drags firstly then later on once i run a good time ill switch it to a drift/track setup what swaybars fit? gtr/gts-t/s13??? what else is needed to get them to handle well? anything else needing upgrading to cope with the power output? thats about all i can think of at the moment... thanks again for your input, and remember i dont care if it looks shit as long as it handles and moves anyone got any links/pics of some nice 31's as well??? cheers Brad

hey guys im currently running my new engine in my stagea which is a jun stroker and t04z and im thinking of putting a stock rb26 into it to use as a daily and buy a cheap r31 and put my stroker engine into for drifting and motorkanas and even occasional drags. now does the r31's have much aftermarket support like finding coilovers and suspension stuff? who sells aftermarket parts for them? does the aussie 31's use the same suspension and parts as the import 31's? i dont want a silvia or 180sx as they are common as hell, and the 31 will fit my 26 straight into. how will a 31 compare to silvias and the like on the drift tracks and also in motorkanas? it will have a reliable 500rwhp+ with the t04z, but im abit worried the turbo is too big for drifting and track work due to the lag issues, anyone think this is a problem? maybe a gt30 is a better option? does anyone know if any r31 drift cars are around? any other info appreciated

ya smokin ya clutch packs mate, and it will smell like a wood fire burning pretty much as i had a local workshop think they knew what they were doin and did exactly the same thing. smoke come billowing out the shifter hole into the car as a result of about a 5 sec run up on the dyno. take the front drive shaft out that connects to the front diff and u will have no problem. its about a 5 min job and 4 bolts to remove is all it takes. i smelt my clutch packs burning for about 500km after that as they must have got really cooked if ya in perth i can recommend a shop to never ever let touch it

all the internal are identical except the 6 studs compared to 8 on the gtr one, so less clamping pressure on stagea unit. im not sure if thats because its from an auto or because its just a better design on the gtr manual TF case. bearings are all the same as well, but its a pain in the arse replacing stuff in the transfer case and bearings from nissan aint too pricey and u will know they are not the problem if the noise continues after u reinstall it. u havent pulled the actuator from the rear of the TFC have u in the recent past since the noise started? i found a problem in mine when i removed the actuator from the very rear of the TFC and when u reinstall it, the little peg that presses the clutches on gets jammed to the side abit and makes the 4wd on 100% of the time and it whines and makes loud noises when operating.

they are different outer casings, as the manual has the shifter coming out of it, and the auto doesnt. plus the stagea auto transfer case internals are not as heavy duty and only have 6 studs pressing the clutches together and gtr is about 8 i think from memory. ive had both apart and side by side as i have a stagea and i ripped the stagea TFC apart to swap over parts into my current gtr transfer case and they are different. the actual clutch plates and the rest are all the same though, so put the clutch packs from the stagea one into the gtr casing and use the gtr splines, and everything. the clutch packs are the only thing that wear out so switch em over and u should be right they are $37 each from nissan new, and u need 12 of em if u want it 100% new the grinding etc sounds like bearings so i'd be replacing them too with brand new ones, dont waste your time with used ones unless u like doing it twice as they are bound to be just as bad

im unsure now until i get a price delivered and then ill decide (for 1 pair of sideskirts) hey Lee i dont mind mate its fine, engine mods r wayyy more important than cosmetic stuff anyway, i dont blame u for changing your mind, as 3k will get u some decent mods anyone spending 3k on a kit before doin any mods is pretty much a show pony if u ask me thanks guys

wheres my qoute? or dont we all find out till this arvo? i just want the 1 set of side skirts thanks chris for sorting it

thanks alex my rb26 is not spastic i still havent installed the pfc yet, ive got all the wiring sorted but havent actually put it in as im still using the autronics smc at the moment, and ill be getting the initial power tune done with the Autronics for low boost and see how it goes. i doubt the non-ecu plugs on the r34 harness will plug striaght into the non ecu plugs in the stagea which makes it fun to try and wire up (not to difficult with the wiring diagrams though)

his only excuse is the severe lack of brain cells

and u wonder why cops hassle skylines and especially p platers, 90% of em are just immature kids who dont think past the fine. how would u feel mate if your mum or other family member was injured or killed from a person doin double the speed limit???? get into reality mate it aint gran turismo

maybe hks dont make something suitable for 930hp on a 2L without huge lag issues, so they designed their own turbo with custom wheels etc to make it more responsive but still capable of making 900hp and running a massive amount of boost without failing. i dont think any hks turbo will run 4 bar for long would it? that engine and turbo must be rebuilt fairly often going by those numbers and a small compresser as well. great efford none the less, i just didnt understand the insane boost level (56psi+)

good point, but when u look at that pikes peak car making 930hp it needs 4 bar boost??? thats pretty bloody bad for that power isnt it or am i missing something

come on mate we will have all upgraded to newer cars by the time the price is sorted i want my skirts

good info Ash i dont think the hks will make a huuugeee difference but when u want to push it to the max i'd personally rather the better of the 2 products to get that big more without having to jump upto a gt42 or something laggy as hell. if someone happens to lend me a garret t04z for a few dyno pulls i wouldnt mind comparing my hks t04z to a garret t04z on the exact same engine setup, they both bolt on to same manifold type, but then the cooler piping inlet is 2 and 3/4 inches on the HKS and only 2.5" on the garrett so then i'd have to change the cooler piping (or maybe i could just use a silicone reducer). plus the exhuast flange on the HKS one is a v-band and im not sure whether garrett use a v-band also?

agreed 94 in a 50 zone is pretty stupid in anyones language, and whether its 2pm or 2am there can still be someone crossing the road when u come round the bend and then your farkkt think of your fine/suspension as a lucky escape in my opinion

exactly my point, once u get rid of the restrictions like all these 2.8L hks stroker engines, etc and u want more power they are still all using over 25psi to create big numbers so in the end if u want the most from the setup u are gonna have to wind the wick up and push the turbo to its limit if the rest of the engine can handle it, so how can i make my hks t04z make its maximum power potential on like 20psi? surely running 28psi on the exact same setup will gain better results wouldnt it if the turbo can handle it? pretty basic question but i personally would like to run 20psi and make 670rwhp+ rather than run 28-30psi if possible, i got full porting done and big big cams setup, and all the other usual goodies (trust manifold, bigger exhuast, big wastegate, etc etc) so where do i go from here to help? would changing to bigger valves and bigger throttle bodies then affect response on the same setup? sorry if its unclear what im saying but its the best way to put it into words. and also Ash i havent personally seen any hks vs garrett at 2 bar plus but going by every other garrett vs hks turbos, the garretts just dont produce much more power from 25-26psi onwards. also your point on going from 16psi to 25psi and making a huge difference is right, but try winding it from 25psi upto 28-30psi and see if u make any more power at all???? thanks and im only saying my opinion so no offence meant to anyone. P.S. this has turned into a nice little imformative thread, keep the info/ideas coming Brad

so how many garrett and hks t04z have u seen at 2 bar plus to compare? i bet hks didnt do the comp cover bigger and different design for looks and going by other hks vs garrett stuff the garrett stuff always dies off around 2 bar. i know most people dont want to run over 25psi or whatever so it wont matter but at the top end of pushing em im sure they will show their true characteristics i see it as comparing a nissan rb26 stock to a gibson built rb26 for the group A cars.

well i'd rather pump 2 bar in and see the gains its like buying a watch from bali, it looks as good but it aint, and u get what u pay for in the end. when u spend a small fortune on a bottom end and head then an extra $800 or so seems minimal when chasing big numbers anyway the word "budget" and "big power" dont seem to go together very well as they say, different horses for different courses

yep as cubes said they are solid and just store them in a clean package or somethign so they dont get filthy dirty for when u re-install them. i been sorting shims lately and they are a pain in the arse installing the cams 20 times with my 11.35mm lift makes it not enjoyable

i dont remember any factory tweeters when the dash was out, but if there is get pulling that dash off cause it will take u a fair amount of time and swearing and cursing worst part is trying to get the main section of the dash back in as its a tight tight fit between the "A" Pillars and i managed to scratch the shit out of my A pillar trims when putting it back in