CruiseLiner

can the crank collar be installed with the crank still on the engine? or does the crank need machining first?

just offtopic a fraction but whats the going rate for a set of stock gtr bov's secondhand???

hey IMASPY thanks for that info it actually gives us all an insight into the world of car owners in japan and now i realise just how different there country is to ours in every way

my n1 water pump runs perfect and never gets hot on my rb26 when doin low rpm in traffic and thats after 1200km of driving, though no flogging yet but i know they are meant for high rpm which is why i got it, so i cant see any dramas with them, but only time will tell

hey cubes that graph definately shows the true goodness of the extra capacity in all its glory just what im after for the stagea, a nice smooth power delivery without having to drop back 2 gears to putt around the local streets at 50kmh like with my 26 so what oil pump do u reccomend for the wide flange crank collar? a second hand r33 gtr one or what? remember im on a tight tight budget using gtr injectors will save some cash too, and i suppose ill need a nismo regulator and twin feeds on the stock fuel rail? what sort of single plate clutch would be suitable and how much are they roughly? i dont want one thats a pain in the arse to drive around in traffic and i want a nice light pedal feel if possible this is lookin like a bargain setup compared to the jun stuff, damn i wish i found out about the rb30s before i spent all my cash on the other setup im going to build this engine on the side while the stagea is still runnin the rb27 and then rip the 27 out and put the 30 in once ive finished, and then the 27 can go into a rwd drift car or drag setup car to run some real numbers. is it wise to use second hand rb26 head bolts from my old engine setup (low km's) or should i buy new ones? are they expensive to buy brand new? now i just gotta work some weekends to fund the little sucker thanks again everyone for the help, im sure ill have plenty more questions in the near future

hey pete thanks for the info, just a few more questions before i say yes for sure where abouts on the guide is the emblem going to be ? and is brushed aluminium an option? i want the one for a stagea series 1 without a scoop so thats $115 + $30 for the unicorn and is freight extra? (if so how much?) remembering im in perth, WA ill transfer the funds tommorow once i decide on which way to go, and which bank is your account with? thanks again for answering my questions mate Brad

hey pete no worries mate i understand, i am really only worried about if the stagea emblem will look good or not and is it actually engraved into the metal? just worried it will get dirt in the emblem area if it is indented into the metal thats all im fussy i know but i just dont wanna get the one without it and then see one with it and go damnn i want the emblem thanks again Brad

hey gary thanks for the input mate im honestly not going to push the 30 at all above 400hp and probably only want around 350hp for fulltime daily use as the jun stroker is worth too much and i cant bear to leave it unattended anywhere as the engine is worth a damn site more than the car itself and insurance dont want to insure it for more than 40k all up which is annoying for me. i want to leave the stagea in carparks and know i havent spent a fortune and that i wont lose much money if its stolen. other issue is anything over 400hp with a rb30 especially is gonna munch gtr gearboxes like no tommorow with the 1690kg weight. i am even considering stock gtr turbos but just the lack of working room and twin exhuasts is a pain in the arse, plus the ceramic wheels are not my favourite idea so if i can pick up a smallish turbo like a gt35r or something for $1200 or so than it will be alot cheaper than using aftermarket twin low mounts. i want the car to drive smoothly, with an easy clutch (single plate because i hate the damn rattling of my twin plate) and a really really quiet exhuast with about 3 mufflers for total silence i want a really cheap as i can engine for my minimal power target no forgies, no rod bolts, no fancy stuff i dont need is the aim. the other engine i have is as crazy as i ever wanna go and if i get bored of that i can always stick my other head on the 30 with 272 cams, hks t04z, etc etc etc. so heres my list so far: rb26 head rb30 bottom end bearings rings gaskets honing balancing water pump (can i use my rb26 one i have sitting in the shed? it is in perfect condition and from a low km engine) cam belt crank collar (is this really needed for such a low power target, and the fact it wont go on the track/drags???) sump adaptor tensioner? rb26 head bolts or do i use the 30 ones? single plate clutch exhuast manifold (cheap china one) single turbo (i dont want a laggy one, so a gt30 or 35r) power fc djetro (already have it sitting in my room) injectors cooler (hybrid or stock gtr one) cooler piping rb26 or rb30 oil pump??? o ringing block i dont think is needed at all? anything else im forgetting? i might do what sky30 has done and chuck in a stock rb30 bottom end (untouched) and run it till it blows, as $1200 for a rebuild is worth the risk as i can rip the engine out myself and rebuild with $0 labour later so its only time for me. will a gt3040r or something be abit small on the 30? i dont want it to pull hard down low and then die off at 5000rpm because the turbo is too small. i can get hold of a complete rb26 head with plenum for $900-$1000 from a mate which will be alot cheaper than others i have seen. so only custom mods are changing the head bolt threads to suit the bigger rb26 ones (is this needed for the power i want?), install a tensioner on the front for the extra deck height, external oil feed and retapping the top gearbox bolts or is it the bottom ones? and thats about all i think? cheers Brad

hahahah lambo doors look poxy as unless u actually got a lambo. seen a supra the other day with some and damn they are shithouse f**k the doors, make it faster instead! turbo or doors hmm i know what i'd choose everyones jumping on the showpony bandwagon as of late, how about p-e-r-f-o-r-m-a-n-c-e anyone for neons????? each to their own i suppose

just wondering after all the discussions on twin plate clutches, ive heard some brands dont rattle at all when u press the clutch in. ive been told the nismo ones dont rattle is this correct? and what other brands are the same?

its from a shop in adelaide i think called Direct Clutch, i bought it over 3-4 years ago and only used it for under 1500km or so since, in my last 2 projects which have been off the road 99% of the time. its still almost brand new conditon and cost me $1700 back in the day, rated for 800hp supposedly, and same one used by the summernats horsepower hero commodore with plates "JUDGE"

im planning on building a cheap rb30/26 for daily use in my stagea as the jun stroker is going to be put into another car in the near future, so i thought with 1690kg the extra capacity will help, im only wanting under 400hp at the absolute maximum. im going to use stock rods and pistons in the 30 bottom end as they should last with that power pretty well i'd imagine? so i am after some details on prices.. anyone know the going rate of freshening a stock rb30 bottom end, with no labour costs as ill do it all myself. how much are stock rings and stock bearings worth? i know machining costs roughly, but it there anything else needed on the bottom end to handle 400hp at wheels max? i can just reuse the stock water and oil pumps? is the crank collar worth doin for under 400hp? i have a stock gtr oil pump and stock gtr water pump are these better options to use? this is using a stock 26 head too. not sure on turbo/s setup yet but most likely a small single turbo will be a better option, something like a gt35r on a cheap manifold to cut costs ive got a power fc djetro to run it and some other bits and pieces so it shouldnt end up costing too much in the end i hope. oh ill also need a 4wd sump adaptor to suit which are around $700 from memory??? cheers

heres a couple of pics of the clutch, i dont have any of the plates themselves but they are definately solid centres. does it look like a decent qaulity one?

my solid centre twin plate from direct clutch is bloody good to drive and take offs from low low rpm are really smooth and it never feels jerky at all. i can even ride it like a stock clutch on hill starts etc without any trouble. though it rattles like crazy and is hard as a rock to press, but u get the good with the bad i suppose

so just the mount from the mid part of the gearbox isnt enough to hold it up? its the rubber stock one im talking about. should the one from the bellhousing be totally solid (no rubber in between??) onto the exhuast and to one of the bellhousing bolts? i get conflicting stories that bracing it too much will make it crack and others say not enough will crack it. also where do u reccomend to brace the wastegate too? the engine block or the bellhousing or what?

perth is the best im a silver sheep not a black one

hey ska can u remove all the sticky topics they are a pain in the arse and take up the whole screen before u even get to see the actual latest topics. just leave the spotted stagea thread. im sure everyone would agree cheers Brad

solid centre isnt too bad at all to drive, its easy to take off and not jerky at all even at low rpm takeoffs without revving the shit out of it to move. hey gav i didnt realise the vacuum assist makes that much difference, but i know mine is no easier when the engine is running so i guess it aint working at all better check the one way valve is the right way round, and check its not blocked also. i might try a stock slave cylinder again and if its still abit hard ill get the nismo one which isnt too badly priced at all, at $140+ delivery. the clutch is actually better to take off from standing starts then a mates spring centred single plate which is really really jerky when not givin it heaps of rpm to move. i had this clutch from my vl calais rb26 which with 10" slicks on at the drags and a 6k rpm launch it would pull the engine down almost stalling it, its that strong and has never ever slipped once. i even bent the rear control arm on my vl 90 degress from a big launch so its got the holding force i need i know the gearbox wont like it but i dont think the box will like lugging over 500hp and 1690kg off the line and from 2nd-3rd will kill it, its just a matter of when thanks heaps everyone for the helpful info, ill report back once i do a few changes

ill grab one but not till i see a pic of a real one installed on a series 1 and preferably without the scoop and i also want to see what that stagea emblem looks like on it. brushed aluminium is my choice so someone getting one with those options or even bass junky can u get a real photo of the finished product with the emblem on it? thanks mate Brad

nice rides guys, and marc2 yours looks mint in white with those wheels/kit, just need a lower front lip to match the sidskirts hieght and it will be awesome

hey mate yes the stagea front propshaft and rear tailshaft fit no problems. both boxes are indentical in lengths im 99.999999% sure the stagea auto x-member fits up too as they are the same as the manual ones (i did mine 18 months ago so my memory is not the best), so just have a look if the gearbox rubber mount is the same as the manual one and if it is then it will fit for sure. hope it helps and good luck Brad

hey guys i think red sky is on the money, as i recall it was something to do with the paint. hey red sky long time no posts, i dont see you on here much anymore, are u keen for a stagea cruise soon in perth? we got atleast 4 that will most likely join in including me, wildcat, mr gts-t, and Stage-A. let us know mate cheers Brad

well whats counted as a drag? what if 2 old poeple boot it from the lights in a commo v6 and a falcon 6 both upto the limit because they are in a rush and not actually racing, is this illegal? its a grey area and thats how the cops like it so they can do and say what they like if they want to be arseholes or what not.

i second the what the hell is SHFC??? sounds like a pommy football club hahah

yer i dont mind, i think its been said time and time again than your better off buying an autech 260rs anyway, as it cost me more in the end doin it into a rs4 i'd update it abit more but i never get time and it was over 18 months ago now that i damn well forgot most of the nitty gritty details, but if anyone wants to ask questions i can answer them best i can and yes alex is right, the billion sticky threads gets annoying as it takes up half the page before the actual latest threads show up