CruiseLiner

is this the same dr30 in the latest HPI magazine??? looks awesome mate, not usually a fan of the 30/31 shapes but that does look sweet

my hks t04z 0.81 housing makes 5psi by a touch under 4000rpm (though thats with a 2.7L)

good point, he didnt give a second thought cause it wasnt his hard earned cash he was risking. the parents should be bloody shot for being so damn stupid

hey ash, im not sure on the specs of the other setups, but i'd say they are all on stock engines except maybe some bigger cams. its in the latest issue of HPI (no. 68) i reckon the trust turbos (t518z's) are probably the best lookin setup on that graph for overall power. though it say the other turbos (besides the t04z) will all run out of puff soon and the t04z is only just starting to get going. do u think if they ran more boost on the t04z it would make more power earlier and not look as laggy as suggested on that dyno graph? surely the midrange will pick up and catch up to the others alot quicker?

hey guys i just got the latest HPI magazine and i found a good article on the hks t04z, and they tried the t04z on 1.4 bar on a stock internal engine. the housing is the 0.81, and the car has hks 264/272 cams as well, plus the pfc djetro they managed a solid 425.1kw at wheels on the 1.4 bar and climbing fast they said. heres the dyno graph with a comparision to a few other sets of turbos on a gtr the article was done at Willall racing as well. they mentioned the to4z needed more rpm and more boost to show its true potential, and over 500kw is acheivable for sure. i noticed the gtrs's are no were near as laggy as the t04z but i suppose it doesnt show the true results until both setups are pumping more boost and pushing the setups to the max. any thoughts?

just a note my jun crank weighs EXACTLY the same weight as the factory cast rb26 item. 19kg i think it was

gotta love the smoothness of a billet crank, compared to the others

hey ken, no worries mate checkout the forced induction section for the thread on the oil restrictors for the head as its vital to keep the oil in the sump and not fill the head when thrashing it. big oil pumps can drain the sump quicker than it can drain back out of the head if the restrictors aint installed, from the info i've read from sydneykid etc. good luck with it also, hope u have better luck than i have been having lately cheers Brad

hey mate u have sumed it up i reckon. doesnt matter what motor and how tough it is, when shit tuners get hold of it they are time bombs. rb25 or 26 or a damn rb20e they are still gonna blow when leaning em out. i cant see a rb26 rebuild any different to a rb25 build, except alot of stock gtr stuff can stay for 500hp and not so with a 25 engine. RBNT (sorry mate i forgot your name) dont forget the few important things with a 26 rebuild. oil restrictor in the head and block off the other oil feed to the head, plus i'd be upgrading the oil pump to a n1 if budget is tight, or a jun/nismo one for extra insurance. plus a baffle kit in the sump is not really going to cut any sort of spirited driving and the chance of oil surge. enlarged and baffled sump is a minimum if any hard driving is going to be considered and u dont want to have to worry about starving the bearings when cornering hard or doin a 8k rpm clutch dump launch those parts are most critical and i wouldnt build an engine without them personally, as the expensive costs of aftermarket pistons/rods and that can turn to a mess without proper oil lubrication. as said though, if u want good power then you gotta fork out for it. different horses for different courses

mr bean style

hey chris are these kits a good fit and go straight on?? i dont want to have to start changing things to make the sideskirts fit, etc ill probably be in for a set of sideskirts as well, delivered the same time as Stage-A's stuff can u do it abit cheaper than $300 for the skirts? postage is gonna be abit too so its almost $400 or so just for skirts i dont mind spendin thousands on the motor, but visual stuff i think hard before i spend up

hey guys i know its been discussed but im unsure what to search for and 180+ pages is alot to look through. so if i was to get a stock rb26 head and a stock rb30e bottom end and bolt em together what comp ratio would i get? and what about using the rb30et bottom end, what comp ratio? i want to use the entire rb30 bottom end complete without touching it as a bit of a cheap engine build and see if it will last. i would love to put my rb26 head on it with the t04z and big cams and see the lag differences compared to my jun 2.7L stroker. what sort of power would i be able to run safely with the stock bottom end and stock head, if the external parts were all suitable for big power? is 300rwkw possible for extended periods or is that about optimistic? also whats the ideal comp ratio for a rb30/26 setup for response and drivability? any info appreciated and sorry for bringing up the same questions, i just havent got 3 hours to read through at the moment and find it myself thanks Brad

awesome work mate sounds like something different what sort of rpm limit have u set for the engine?

thats dead right, uninsuring a r34 gtr (i think it was a 34 anyway) is asking for trouble. as a matter of fact i wouldnt buy a damn r32 gtst without insuring it. people these days dont use their brains and think it wont happen to them. feel sorry for the owner none the less. i bet the owner didnt think about if he smashed into a brand new mercedes and then who is gonna pay up? i think the parents are the stupid ones for being so nieve (sp?) money definately cant buy brains thats for sure!

bloody 19 year olds changing their mind every other week haha just jokin alex, i would go straight for the 260rs if u can as spending cash on the rs4 is only throwing it down the drain and wasting time if u plan on going a 260 in the future anyway. cut to the chase and go for it good luck mate

hey alex as said above i think the initial exclusiveness of the stageas when we purchased ours over 18 months ago and the lack of cars to choose from made the caryards be able to say a purchase price they want as if u dont like it u simply dont get one. series 2's are now making series 1's cheap as hell which isnt good considering they are pretty much the same except the neo engine and a few cosmetic changes. that black one with the "photos available after purchase" is pretty rude in my opinion and that just shows there is things they are trying to hide in the couple of pics supplied so be wary. series 1 front ends look 100 times better but and i reckon more series 2 owners will want the series 1 grille and thats about all thats better on the s1's. does anyone know how many autech stageas were made by any chance? i read 100 but there are about 10 or more in oz ive heard and read about i doubt its only 100 and more like 500 or more?? im sure jake32 would know?

autowholesale in perth and one other RAWS approved shop in QLD i think are the only 2 autowholesale are highly reccomended from my experiences with them

undo the top drivers side arm long bolt and take off the steering rod end, and also the coilover off the bottom eye hole. take the brake line mounts off to allow it more room to pull the hub outwards away from the car (but brake calipers and lines can stay connected). pull the hub down and turn it fully one way and pull the shaft out of the back of the hub (once the main shaft big nut is undone) and slid the other end out the diff using something to budge it off the circlip. shaft only just short enough to get out of the hub with abit of force other side is just a flange to flange setup so undo the 6 bolts i think it is and pull the sump out

do u mean the exhuast is longer, or the whole car with the 260rs??? i'd imagine the exhuast overall is longer because the front turbo sits alot further forward than a single on a rb25. i highly doubt the car is longer except maybe the front spoiler as mentioned above. my exhuast is a single 3" dump pipe, into a 4" magic cat, then 3.5" piping to a 3.5" hotdog style muffler and then an apexi 2.5" muffler and 4.5" tip at the rear. only found the muffler was 2.5" when i checked inside it, as the pipe into the back of it is 3.5". sounds soo damn loud and deep rumble its annoying. im gonna change it to something more livable as it sounds like a drag car idling and i dont think the cops will like it if i pull up next to them. the big lift cams dont help either.

hey mate, the engine harness would have the wires intact but the ecu will have no pins for the 4wd wires as the ecu is meant for rwd rb20's. its simple to hook up anyway once u find the correct wires.

haha, i didnt mean pay for them i got r34 brembos at the moment so they are good enough for a while, and ill go ap racing 6 spots instead. they are mounted different to a porcshe aint they and so the pistons r workin from back to front i heard on them. maybe just a rumour

i'd rather the fat porsche calipers

the main ecu gives the attessa ecu 3 wires and they are tacho speed signal and throttle signal + and throttle signal - they can be hooked up with aftermarket ecu's somehow, unsure exactly though.

motor out job pretty much, as u need to remove the sump and also the gearbox to get the sump bolts out, and then drop the sump 20mm or so to pull the oil pump forward and off the snout of the crank. it wouldnt be hard getting the pump off in the car but putting the sump back on with it in the car is another strory as u need to gasket goo it and with no room to get the silicone gun in makes it bloody hard. i'd be triple checking its the pump before ripping the motor out though is the km's on the gtr genuine???

hey luke, i have an alarm installed in mine actually so ill check what wires r connected, and ill have a look for the wires u said. heres the colours i know at the moment from the wiring harness. (i dont know if they are the wires u need though) black/pink - fuel pump relay grey/red - ignition switch start signal thick green - Ign switch + Ign power supply i havent really got in the car and tracked any non engine/ecu related wiring because i havent had too yet. ill have a look as i said and get back to ya in a few days or so as im really busy on mine at the moment cheers Brad