CruiseLiner

hey guys i got bored this mornin and decided considering i get asked stuff about my car, instead of telling everyone seprately i thought i'd make up a cardomain page on it showing the car from when i bought it stock rb25 form 18 months ago and then added the rb26 with info (seperate page) on the parts and tasks needed to complete it. then i go through the diff conversion to a gtr rear end and gtr brakes, and about my current engine build and all the other stuff ive done over that 18 months. ive uploaded about 60 pics as well of everything. my stagea let me know what u think cheers Brad

oil related parts are not something to stinge on as if the tranny cooler end tank blows off or something then u wont have an engine for long, that goes for cheap fittings as well, i'd never trust anything except braided screw in fittings. i've read on these forums of a few peoples hoses blowing off and engine dumps all the oil and engine siezes in a very short space of time without oil ive been told to stay away from the china oil filter kits too as those fittings are not the best quality either. saving a hundred bucks now can cost you thousands in the long run

how much for the rims then??? and are they genuine volks? can u get a better photo in the light so we can actually see the rims properly? they suit your car very nicely btw

from lookin around i seen em for around $2500 without tyres so around $4200 or so with new decent tyres i'd rather a set of volks or something anyday unless the car is black and has a gtr front then i'd reconsider

that one in the pic looks awesome mate, is that yours is it? what front bar is it? looks almost black too nice ride

-8 for water lines is what i used and was reccomended, definately not -3!!! oil feed is much smaller at around -4 or 5 i think from memory oil drain is huge at around 3/4 inch pipe or something stupid restrictor is needed for hks t04z but im 99% sure all garrett turbos have them built in. (from what ive been told anyway)

just rip ya front tailshaft out for rwd action one spanner and 10 mins work and its done without any chance of wrecking clutchpacks

how much is cheap?? someone send me a PM or post here the price and ill see if i want the front bar too. most likely not because i wanna go r34 gtr front in the end but if its real cheap i might grab it for the time being

with the footbrake mounting studs i didnt have to take them out because i got the recessed vacuum booster for the master cylinder and i just thought maybe they got in the way if u mount the pedal box hard onto the firewall so does a manual r33 footrest fit perfectly in place of the stagea auto one does it? ive never bothered to touch it since i ripped the auto one out but that leaves 2 holes in the carpet which look shitty so i might go buy one if u say its a straight fit i tell u what, im glad i put the vacuum booster on because at the moment it aint workin and my clutch is f**kin heavy and annoying (twin plate rated to 800hp), so once its working it should make a helll difference to the pedal feel so did the pedal box bolt str8 in or did u have to modify some mounting points or what? oh and can u take photos of the rubber boots that block the gearbox hole to stop undercar noise? the ones under the console im talking about as i still havent bothered to cover mine since i did my conversion over 18 months ago hahah (must admit ive done under 2000km in those 18 months though)

yes i agree the brakes are pathetic for the size and weight of the car, what on earth were nissan smoking when they choose them??? but on the other hand all other skyline brakes bolt str8 on such as the gtr brembos, etc which makes it very easy to upgrade

if anyone finds more pics of r34 gtr front end stageas post em up pleasseee

PM sent mate, and thanks for all the trouble getting this gear at such good prices

nice stageas guys and contragulations mcnamg, welcome to the ever growing wa stagea club we got 3 silver ones now on the forums in perth 6 stageas cruisin in perth will be sweet when we all get sorted out

hey pete dont start the single vs twin debate again hows your setup going anyways mate?

nice setup foolboost and thanks for the pics of the external oil feed. do u happen to have one of the oil pickup setup inside the sump? does it bolt onto the inside of the sump or welded onto it?

sweet ride mate and the wheels are perfect choice, and pretty much what i want for mine or something similiar from the jap brands

instead of pissing around dropping x-member to get box in, just tip the box around clockwise as u look from behind the box towards front of car and get the starter bulge just on the side and it will go in easy as took my box out night b4 last after work in about an hour and installed it back last night it same amount of time. simple when u have done it 15 times (and i aint exagerating hehe) thats with no hoist and in a 2 car garage with 1 trolley jack. damn the boxes r heavy compared to rb25 boxes with the transfer case on wheres pics of your handbrake mounting? did u put spacers under the handbrake to mount it up enough to clear the console? and did u have to cut the footbrake mounting studs off under the dash to get the pedal box in? how did u cut the hole out for the master cylinder with the engine in place??? good write up none the less

well the reason its easier to steal is the fact they pull the timer out and all the connected wires are there for starting the car instead of them having to go lookin around under the dash they can see them easy as. im sure ripping the wire off the handbrake is piece of piss for a theif too so the handbrake trick wont do nuthin. ive seen plenty of cars stolen without the keys and they just snap the steering lock

i got a hks t04z turbo in a big box weighing a tonne and it was worth over 3k and i didnt get any taxes so sometimes u just get lucky i suppose

i found my booster and master were both leakin so thats my problem, and the fact i got a slave with a bore of only 15mm and the stock gtr one is 19.05mm and nismo is 20.54mm so the change back to a gtr one will have a considerable difference compared to the pissy one i currently have and also when i fix the vacuum booster setup it should be like a new car to drive

possibly, though i gotta remember its only revvin to 4k rpm runnin like 10:1 afr's and only has 130rwhp which is wayyy low for a 1700kg car trying to pull around under 2000rpm so maybe thats the main issue as it would have almost 0 torque as it is. so im gonna wait till its tuned properly and see how it is and then pull it out if continues to annoy the shits out of me

i pulled box out and guess what... f**kin spigot bush is already in (must have come with the crank) nuthin like wasting hours pulling box in and out for no bloody reason. box is back in now so i dont think that bearing is an option at the moment, but im sure it will be out soon enough knowing my luck hehe is that bearing instead of the bush is it???

any pics of the exhuast to bellhousing brace sydneykid? i dont get how u can make it expandable one way but not the other ? i know u use flat bar but how do u make it so the manifold can expand outwards from the engine block with a staight peice of bar? or do u have a bend in it? pics tell a 1000 words for dummies like me

so whats this grinding i keep reading about on the bottom end to fit the sump adaptor??? and if the sump goes down 6mm lower is this going to then hit the x-member? or do i have to put spacers under the mounts to raise it so it clears ? who is the sump adaptor available from sydneykid? im just organising everything and still deciding if ill go in this direction at the moment, and ill know in a few days if ill go ahead or not. does the sump adaptor use the stock rb30 sump threaded holes or does it require new holes to be tapped into the 30 block ? thanks again everyone