CruiseLiner

so what area r u in red sky? im from iluka (near joondalup)

yes ive used the teflon fuel braided line and fittings to suit thanks for the warning total ive spent now is $1200 on fittings and line for water and oil lines for turbo, fuel lines and oil filter relocator. looks the goods but also my valves r stock sizes.

hey mate, ill be up for cruising once mine is finished (around 4 weeks or so till its run-in), just wondering what suburb you are from? ive seen about 3-4 pearl white ones, and a red one recently, i have been spotting one a week just lately, and before then i seen hardly any in the 14 months ive owned my stagea now. cheers Brad

yes it has twin feeds one from each end and then the return in the centre its a Sard fuel rail

with the engine apart u would be crazy to not change the bearings (500rwhp i'd be changing other stuff too). trying to do it cheap always ends up costing you twice as much in the end!

hey AL is your stagea red? do u happen to work at route 66 in beldon as i spotted one parked out the front yesterday? cheers Brad

slowly slowly all coming together nicely for a change

thats exactly my plan also, as even if cops said remove the front tint it aint much to get it done again (unlike having to do all the car like a commodore, etc would have to).

hey pete 280kmh in a car is just crazy was that on the street or track? ive gone just upto 200 and i dont think i'd go much quicker (except maybe at the drag strip, but not on the road) cheers Brad

i second that comment as those g35/v35 rims look f**kin awesome

example b for me love the darker rims now rather than the chrome/silver ones, as they look alot tougher and less showy

so u have made up your mind or still deciding? (auto vs manual that is)

hell yer that looks awesome, love those rims, and the yellow looks mad with the black windows prolly the best stagea ive seen except maybe the black one for sale in perth at the moment. good work, and how much are those rims worth with tyres new ? (AUS dollars please) cheers Brad

just abit off topic but does the stageas come with the UV CUT glass on the rear windscreen? mine is mirror tinted as i bought it, and some i see with the uv cut and others with normal lighter glass like the front windows? cheers Brad

not sure, as the gearbox wont shift above 9k rpm and i need oversize pulleys to prevent blowing the air con compressor up and to slow down the power steering and water pump (n1 which flows less already so might get hot in traffic with an oversize pulley and cruising speeds) i think the need for over 9k rpm wont be very often as it is going to be a street car and not a drag/track car, so i need it reliable in traffic as much as possible, i have another daily driver, so wont be drivin it more than 1-2 times a week for cruises on weekends, or maybe the occasional thrash after work the tuner i am using, does race/rally cars, and high power street cars, currently his best hp is just under 700hp at the wheels from an evo 6 i think (2L turbo) just sorting all the fuel lines at the moment, and god damn they are pricey spent $400 on turbo braided lines for water and oil another $350+ on fuel lines and fittings and i still havent got everything yet. B) cheers Brad

hey mate, well its hard to say, as mine might have snapped because of a manufacturing fault, or maybe it had been shocked hard previously in an accident or something, and the fact i took off from a set of lights from idle, and then just floored first gear once i was rolling along and as it hit boost it just went bang and i tried to go into 2nd gear and the car wasnt moving, which i thought was the gearbox or the tailshaft at first, until later inspection. i think the rb26 nature is alot laggier and then bang it hits boost, where as the rb25 is less laggy and more linear meaning less shock on the driveline. i had roughly 350-360rwhp at the time it broke, but just a quick and very important note is the car was in 2wd only and with the non-lsd diff it was trying to push the cars weight through only one wheel and that may have been the main cause. i also had 4 people in the car which would have been 1800kg for the car plus 4 peoples weight so around 2100kg of weight is alot to move with one tiny axle the gtr shafts are huge in comparision and even r33 gts-t's use the gtr size shafts and uni joints. if u want to know in more detail i posted a thread in the stagea section on the gtr diff conversion, and i dont want to go off topic in here or it might upset the moderators. cheers Brad

the auto tranfer case is totally different to the manual gtr one, as the gearstick actually comes out of the top of it and in the auto it doesnt have the hole. plus the gtr one is alot tougher and internals are alot stronger and heavy duty while the stagea auto one is only a cheap version with weaker parts.

looks very very nice mate, clean and polished looks 100 times better than painted bits imho. single turbos are getting more and more popular everyday have u got the stock gtr capacity sump on it? i'd be changing that for sure if u havent already, to be safe good luck with it cheers Brad

any excuse to mention those bloody wolf ecu's :lol:

interesting info, and 6k for a manual conversion is alot of cash, but selling the stagea with it manual will sell in 5 sec's flat cause they are rare, dont know about getting the 6k back in resale but who builds cars for profit? a r33 gts-t handbrake fits and needs to be custom mounted to the body as there is no holes already there or nuthing, and even a thick plate should be welded onto the bolting up area as its only thin metal in that area and after a while it will deform the floor from the pressure on it from the handbrake cable being pulled tight all the time. im after a console but 1000 bucks is alot imo for some plastic bits. i used an Autech pedal (can be ordered through nissan i think), and pedal box is just a gtr one i think (99% sure). mounting the clutch vacuum booster is the biggest job if u want it to have a light feeling clutch pedal, and with the engine in i wouldnt attempt it personally. the joys of changing things good luck what ever u decide alex cheers Brad

tried to 2wd dyno mine and pulled the fuse and bleed the line at the rear of the transfer case, and even clamped it up, but still smoked the clutch packs on the dyno trying to pull the car off with the front wheels, thanks to a local shop that have done stageas before hahahah f**kin morons. easiest way is to get a spare actuator from the rear of another gtr box and unscrew the main pressure line and screw it into the spare actuator and tie it up under the car and instant 2wd and the clutch packs cant possibly be under pressure from the attessa system, and the rear of the box is a sealed hole so u dont have to touch it and its perfect. or the front driveshaft method, but that still would engage clutch packs and be trying to turn the front wheels (well the bits inside the box anyway as the shaft is not connected) so i reckon u could still be wearing it out. best power to date was 350rwhp on 18psi

yes im leaving the standard harmonic (at the moment) which limits the rpm to under 9k but for 500rwhp i wont need to rev it that hard, and the engine parts i choose because they were offered to me second hand, and i want the revving nature of the 26 to remain, as ive had a rb30 and it was a truck engine in comparision (slow reving), but i've explained it all on page 1 and 2 of the thread, and cost of the entire engine and external parts, plus fuel system, ecu, and everything to make the power is over 40K if i bought the bits new, and ive spent over 30k in reciepts, and thats JUST PARTS, NO labour. (cause i saved 10k on the second hand bits, though they were unused and still in boxes). now u can see y im abit anxious about the build crank is limited to 11k for safety, and 13k rpm for extreme applications i've been told. im abit annoyed i've spent soo much and only want 500rwhp at the moment as i've gone total overkill, and coulda used stock parts in the build, but i always want room for more power, and next target is the t04z's limit which is 700rwhp, and then i might get another larger turbo to push it even harder and get above 700rwhp. The engine combo is rated to 800-850rwhp or so with a trust t78 by the JUN head guy. or over 1000rwhp with a t88.

standard

hey guys, finally got the engine in today and 99% of the stuff is hooked up so not long to go just got i/c piping mods and exhuast to be done to the cat. couple of other bits and pieces, but mostly ready to go heres a pic i took earlier today, not long now we had to spin the comp cover to face the passenger side gaurd to get the 3" cooler piping to fit, as we initially had it pointing down towards the chassis rail. i havent crawled and fiddled under a car and in the engine bay for over 6-7 months now and god damn its a pain in the arse, as everything is soo hard to get too compared to sitting on an engine stand few weeks and she will be ready for the run in tune and then after the run in is done, some power figures on the dyno i've told my tuner i want 500-550rwhp max at the moment as i gotta save the gtr gearbox from breaking for as long as possible (till i get some more cash for upgrade), and tuner said i'll need around 17-18psi for 500rwhp which is pretty low boost and then when i get that nice gearbox ill wind it right up and hoping for as close to 700rwhp as i can get (and push the t04z to its limit). only time will tell, and im bound to have a few hiccups along the way as usual B) cheers Brad

nearly done