CruiseLiner

im with just cars im 99% sure and with a rb25 its $1000 a year for 21 year old with 65% no claims and garage storage etc, and for the rb26 engine without increasing the value (insured for 19K) its $1100 a year instead, not bad i dont reckon. wait till i mention i want to up the value to 30K or something and then we shall see what they charge. cheers Brad

4 doors (or even 5) are soo much more practical for carrying passengers/things thats for sure my initial choose was the 32 4 door also, but interior etc too old and out dated now, plus i wanted air bag/abs/everything workin perfectly like a brand new car, and the sleeper part is most important all my mates absolutely love the look of the the car and plenty of em want one but cant afford it, and i dont want them copying me anyway haha last thing is i wanted to be able to park it at shops without people wanting to steal/scratch it, and as long as they dont think its a sports/fast car then they most likely wont bother pinching it.

im pretty sure u need a press to push them in, but not 100% sure, i did mine about 6 months ago and ive done lots of other stuff too soo it gets confusing which tasks were easy/hard/etc. it requires removal of the rear hub which is easy if u have recently done all the bushes and u would have fiddled with most of the required bolts before for the suspension kits. just get the hub off totally bare and take it to a suspension shop and they will press in the new bearing and then just reinstall hub as u took it off. i just checked the gtr workshop manual and yes a press is needed to press the old ones out and the new bearings in. i can give u the instructions from the gtr workshop manual if u like, im going out in 5 min so i havent got time at the moment, but ill write it out for you tommorow. hope it helps Brad

im sure people said that in the 60s and 70s when they said all cars will be fuel injected and computer controlled.

thanks ska, its not like i lied and made up a whole load of rubbish, i dont see y people shouldnt be able to hear the truth even if its not what they wanna hear. too many people reccomend shops before they get any substantial work done and people then expect some skills/knowledge from the shop, but i got asked from the shop doing my engine block machining (same said workshop) for the torque specs on the JUN stuff, i deliberately let a gtr specialist workshop do it and they are asking the customer for torque settings <_< i had about 5-6 major issues with them and they let me down so i beleive people need to hear the truth thats what cruises are for, then i can open my mouth and start spreading the word thats all on the topic from me Brad

hey nick is it manual or auto? if auto then u dont need to worry about the clutch slave cylinder obviously, but manual u will. no worries, hope it helped Brad

hey alex good work, it saves bulk cash doin stuff yourself and its not hard with a workshop manual and a few tools to do most jobs. it sounds like the wheel bearing inside the rear hub on the side u said slid in and out and clunked, available from nissan for about $50 i think if i remember correctly. if it happen when u turn then it is obviously pulling the wheel in or out of the centre of the diff abit and causing the clunking noise. cheers Brad

pretty much all the reasons same as alex, mainly the point i dont have to sell it when i get kids, etc. i did have a g/f and a dog when i bought it but i broke up with her and she took the dog too (another reason i got it was for the dog) glad i dont have no dogs now haha, can thrash the shit out of it and dont have things flying around in the cargo area was lookin at a r32 4 door or r33 4 door as an option but they only 2wd and i had the rb26 ready to go in from my previous vl calais so i was sick of smoking tyres off lights and being beaten by slower cars cause of no traction. and they just look soo individual and different to every other cars and people sure do stare more than i ever expected. oh also im turning 23 this year cheers Brad

hey nick, yep the gtr diff centre drops str8 in, as its exactly the same housing except the stagea one has the mountings for all the attessa pumps above the diff, which makes it a bolt back in job. im not sure about trying to use stagea axles with the gtr diff as i never tried it personally. removing the clutch slave cylinder is only 2 bolts and then pull the front shaft off and then bolt the slave back on (dont need to release the clutch fluid or take the line off or nuthin) and away u go. (just move it to the side while u pull the shaft out from under the car) all up removing the shaft and slave would take 10-15 min max. hope it helps Brad

i got banned for warning perth people about a couple of dodgy businesses operating and i never once mentioned the shops names, and a few mods on here are good friends with this shop and got abit shitty because their shops getting a bad rep. the said workshop is actually a sponsor making it even worse, and 99% of perth people say they are the best shop in perth and they dont have a damn clue, they might get an oil change and think they are the ducks nuts, but any technical stuff and they just tell you they dont know what it is and take it home and sort it and bring it back for more dyno runs when i fix it, pretty smart business operations i dont want another ban so i better keep quiet about it haha, but only the wa mods actually care anyways, and this shop is also the ones who smoked the clutch packs in the transfer case on the dyno and then told me its the transfer cases fault and its jammed in 4wd they said, haha, they just dont have a damn clue and i cant wait for more stories from these "gtr experts" also all the pics look the same now until i get the whole bay done, so ill wait till then cheers Brad

in the gtr workshop manual it says u gotta make sure the ignition is ON when checking the attessa fluid level. id also check the auto tranny fluid as mentioned, and just when turning the rear wheel to see if it clunks might not work because it being non-lsd only the wheel u turn will turn and the tailshaft/other side wheel wont even move at all, so u wont hear any noises, so the diff snout is the easiest way to check and its easy to unbolt the tailshaft, only 4 allen key bolts i think.

hahaha true true, gotta watch ya money i was joking anyway, and ill pay the money in sometime this week when i get 5 min spare, but ill PM u and let u know when i do cheers mate Brad

each to their own, but i'd much rather get the car going good and look standard then get it lookin like a 260rs and stock, then making it go better after. ive never been a fan of wild kits and fancy add ons, much rather the goodies under the bonnet, and when im done i might add some skirts and thats about it besides some rims. different horses for different courses i guess r34 gtr front might be an option in the very distant future, but not for a while yet. cheers Brad

cheers and thanks for the support ill be cruisin as soon as possible thats for sure

hey alex doesnt sound good, well i'd be checking underneath and jacking up whole car so all the wheels are off the ground. then get underneath with it in nuetral and turn the rear tailshaft connecting to the diff and then turn it back the other way and see if it has any slack or play in it and see if it clunks, then turn the rear wheels the same and back the other direction and see if it makes a clunking noise. it could be a a tailshaft uni joint worn out or something similair so i'd be checking the slack on the rear shaft compared to the axles. it may be easier to unbolt the rear tialshaft off the diff as turning the snout of the diff will be easier and u can turn it in both directions quickly to see if it has any slack. could be axle uni joint, or maybe even a wheel bearing, plenty of possibilities before blaming the diff itself. does yours have a tow bar on it or been used for towing at any stage as that may have worn it out extra quickly. give it a go and let us know cheers Brad

come on ladies i think more money on engine and power upgrades than all this showy stuff, jesus its not a hot4's website is it id much rather a highflow turbo than a heap of fibreglass bits :lol:

hahah, well my list to go is... turbo side cooler piping (99% done, just needs to be welded) weld exhuast dump/front pipe properly (its made and tacked together just needs final welds done) need some spark plug ends to connect the msd coils to the sparkplugs and a few other minor bits non engine related... so yes its mighty close and im almost ready to contact the tuner and book it in for the run in tune, and he reckons i need to give him 2 weeks notice but i dont wanna book it in and then not be ready, so i gotta finish it all and then book. then the run in is next for 1000km and then another tune on abit more boost im counting the days now im nervous and excited, just hoping nuthing goes wrong and we havent done any errors in the build, and hopefully the tuner does good things i just wanna hear the engine run after 7-8 months of hard work every single day after my fulltime job ive worked on it and all the machining delays etc, just makes me impatient :lol: u guys shall be notified when i make some decent numbers, and might even take it down the 1/4 mile babying it to keep the gearbox and axles in 1 piece. i couldnt bare doing a 7-8k clutch dump off the line. did it in my last car with the 26 in it (and some MT slicks, 10" wide) and snapped the tailshaft uni joint, bent a diff arm 90 degrees and snapped the yoke in the rear of the gearbox all in 1 launch. B) best time with the 350rwhp was 12.0 at 118mph though, not bad from only a few runs, and 118mph showed it had mid 11s when setup right. will be interesting to see what power the stagea needs to run 11s and hopefully my aim in the distant future (with a decent gearbox/more power) to run a 10 and keep up with these W.A. GTR's. if i break too many parts im gonna put it in a rwd car (180sx/r32 4 door, etc) or even a dragster chassis and run a auto gearbox and im sure it will pull alot better times then and the chassis dragsters only weigh around 600kg. there is a sr20t in a dragster in wa and it runs flat 9s with only 350rwhp i just dont wanna spend the 10-20k on a good gearbox to suit the 4wd stuf, and a 2wd box will be 1/4 of the price and a transbraked auto wouldnt be too bad i guess cheers Brad

warning, dont believe those first few posts on that thread ska mentions, its gonna damage the clutch packs pulling a fuse, and even bleeding the attessa line does bugger all, except smoke clutch packs on a dyno. i explained my method in the thread, which i believe is the best/safest way of running rwd, though maybe removing the front driveshaft is easy except u gotta take of the clutch slave cylinder off the gearbox to get it out, or remove the clutch hydraulic line from the slave. mine was suprisingly grippy running 350rwhp and held better than my previous 2wd car with the rb26 in it (commodore). i think they have alot better suspension setup and only drama was i snapped an axle on the rear diff from launching off a set of lights, as the diff is non-lsd and all the power is going through one wheel only, but i chucked in the gtr lsd and its much better, though i havent used it stuff all since the diff conversion. in about 3-4 weeks when mines tuned we shall see what power these stageas need to wreck gtr axles/uni joints i just wanna see if the stagea will drift nicely in 4wd and ill try 2wd also. good luck Brad

that would be awesome, what about a full translation of the whole manual for $40 ill pay

well done xrated thats some awesome numbers for low mounts and stock bottom end, and home built is even better than all these business backed cars with piles of development and time/money poured into them. i have 100 times more respect for peoples cars who are actually done by the owner and not just cheque book racers. (no im not having a go at anyone in particular with my comments, just the general car scene and all the braggers who done nuthing and paid someone else to do it then claim they built it and put in all the effort) good luck in the future Brad

thanks alot mate, i found the connection just the other day, but cheers for the info Brad

hey mate cheers heaps for tracking down the info, but it happens i found the return line hanging in the tank and yes it connects to a barb end on the bottom of the tank (actually off the surge tank sort of setup) to keep it at the bottom. gotta love how helpful fellow stagea owners are when in need thanks again Brad

hey bwilkinson,good point, i recently traced the attessa/abs wiring from the factory ecu and yes it runs directly under the pasenger seat and under the rear passenger side seats too to the back passenger side cargo area behind the side panel, so maybe someone has drilled a hole through some wiring from inside the car or underneath, or just check the last few things u did on the car (even if basic minimal stuff u wouldnt think could cause a prob) and u r bound to find something cut/disconnected. check under the ignition area firstly i reckon, and maybe its a turbo timer hooked up wrong? good luck Brad

044 fuel pump $550 is pricey, install is easy, so it sounds alot... www.racespec.com.au has em for around the $300-$320 mark last time i checked. buy the parts from east/japan as perth shops just love to charge an extra 50% on the regular prices and people get stung. i was told x-force exhuasts are absolute shit from a well known shop over east who does rb26s and is a high quality shop with plenty of big power gtr's. injectors are way pricey too, and installing them is about an hour job if that. my mate got charged over 5k just for a 2560r turbos upgrade on a stock gtr and he thought he got it cheap haha, some people are just gullable and dont research around before the purchase. find out the time it will take from the workshops too as some like to take a little longer than others, and some alot longer good luck Brad

sorry for the off topic, but got any pics of the 26 in a vl? i previously had my 26 in a vl calais (purple one) a few years back and was a member on calaisturbo.com. i had 350rwhp and traction was pathetic, spins at any speed, and hence the change to a 4wd chassis to get the power to the ground. vl was a good slider but if i wanted to do that sort of thing heres an old pic from about 3 years ago now. cheers Brad