CruiseLiner

thats dead right, soon as u mention its not a standard application, running more than stock boost they say bad luck. my mate just bought a brand new gt3540r and thats what the shop told him when he asked about warranty. cheers Brad

the bonnet idea is a good one, though my mate did it to his mz20 soarer and every car that he pulls up next to at lights tell him he has left his bonnet up haha. the water on turbo is more of an issue if its boiling hot after a big thrash and then suddenly water hits it it changes temperature soo quick (immediately almost) that it shrinks and ive heard problems of cracking the housings though i dont know how true that is :confused: the heat bag issue as roy has said is exactly what my point was about the bags being too efficient and not letting the air circulate at all. i'd imagine the turbo getting more than twice as hot as one without a bag on it. whats these racepace ones worth? might give em a call tommorow, does anyone have a contact number and dont forget the state phone number first as im unsure which state they are in. cheers Brad

very true, myself had the same situation, no series 2's on offer at all, so auto it was, and when SK bought his it was only series 1's as well. so alot of the initial owners (trendsetters ) didnt have the option.

ok ive been chasing prices on the metal heat sheilds and local hks distributor in WA wants $280 for one thats suits a hks T51 turbo and needs modifying, hahah good value over east rang bd4s and they want $270 as well, for a pissy piece of metal and a bracket. gcg want $220 for a plain non branded one perfect run emailed and reckons hks japan dont even have them anymore nengun is like $180 i think, just i need it within the next 2 weeks and nengun take forever. might have to make one up until i get the hks one. are they ally or stainless steel? how far off the actual housing do they sit? 10mm? 20mm? or what? cheers Brad

well atleast 3 of the people who voted manual are converted autos anyway

hey mate ive found any decent auto shop will have them, just take in the old one u r replacing and it has a number on it like 895 or something which is the actual length of it, and find one the same in the brands they stock (or as close to the size as u can), plus dont forgot to make sure it has the same amount of ribs if its ribbed, like the part no is usually 4pk 895 or something meaning 4 ribs and 895mm long. hope it helps Brad

a large hole in a piston maybe? was it tuned fairly rich or on the limit? just a thought that comp test looks like every cylinder is down in pressure, should all be around 150-160ish im pretty sure. cheers

is that all u can say? each to their own mate get over it, go enjoy your 3L power/torque its only my opinion

good to hear its normal, and just replaced the boot the other day actually. thanks Brad

no worries guys, cheers for the comments. anyone know shops who are selling the hks metal cover? or even some plain ones for a more reasonable price? or i might just make one up myself i'd like some vents for the pod and turbo area but the cops wont like it at all, and the rain is an issue plus stagea bonnet r not easy to find second hand if i gotta get it back to stock, and i'd prefer the sleeper look.

whats your opinions people. a turbo exhuast housing bag or a metal cover over the top? whats the good and bad points of each? hks turbo cover is like $180, the turbo bags im unsure. ive been told the turbo bags make the turbo have more thermal stress and wear out quicker? dont wanna wreck my brand new $3400 turbo anytime soon :confused: cheers Brad

sounds about right to me, and the stroker kits are damn pricey when buying everything seperate, and mine with the jun crank rods and pistons is about 12k by the time its delivered, and then u got cams, valve springs, retainers, headwork, cam gears, bearings, sump, gaskets, etc etc, which u wont get a cent of change from 25k by the end i reckon with all the little bits and pieces u dont usually even consider in the final price. i say 23k is a bargain, and most builders in oz who are half decent will have 6 month waiting lists anyway so its possibly a quicker/simplier/easier option over all. go for it i reckon. cheers Brad

ahhaha nice call, who calls 7000rpm high revving anyway, my vs commo almost does that go the high revving engines anyday personally, much more fun when planting out of corners and its hitting the limiter almost str8 away at 9000rpm+ checkout the supra vs mines gtr video and compare the revvy nature, and response/speed the rb26 hits redline compared to the supra 3L, no comparision sports engine vs torquey engine. revs rule

no worries, the gearbox is the same in series 2 stagea, 32/33gtr,260rs (and i think the gts4) ill see how mine goes in the next couple of weeks as im finally getting it back on the road after the engine build which has taken over 7 months or so. owned the car since november 04 and only done about 1200km in it since the joys of car ownership and modifying em

go the manuals drove the auto (rb25) for 2 weeks and wasnt too bad i must admit (series 1 as well) and was good to launch off lights quickly, but abit gutless after that and i like to engine brake into corners and on the road in general so its abit of a pain. (though id just been driving a vs 6 banger commo auto for the past couple of years so that made it feel abit better than it actually was. chucked the manual in and i worked out ive done 900km since the manual and rb26 went in january 05 so thats not much drivin at all but in the 900km it was an absolute ball to drive and i love slamming the next gear and throws ya back in the seat unlike the autos do. (and i wonder y i break axles in half :confused: ) manual is a must for any spirited driving unless u got sooo much power that the manual wont hold up and then i'd consider an auto with a transbrake, big stall convertor and manual valve body. a manual gearbox is the difference between someone buying your stagea and not buying it when its up for sale as people will get the manual even if its a shit colour or has dirty seats of something as they are rare as hell. plus u can ask abit more for the car in price each to their own i guess

hey mate, ive got a rb26 and gtr 5 speed gearbox and ive had the same problems, and do u mean your gearbox fluid is low or the transfer case? as the shifter is actually into the transfer case. mine was abit of a problem a couple of times i didnt have the gearstick boot on and planted it flatout on the freeway and it started spewing out like a volcano into the car over my seats/dash, etc. and it did it about 3 times or so. the local workshop told me its a usual thing, as usually the boot stops it coming out. but that shop i dont use anymore and wouldnt trust them at all. i was thinking the fluid is getting too hot and boiling, but i highly doubt it. maybe just the g-forces from planting it forces the oil into the gears and causes it to spray/splash up. also the fluid in the transfer case is ATF and totally seperate to the Atessa container fluid mounted in the boot. let us know if u find answers cheers Brad

id much rather the show/profesional look that the backyard painted bits style with rubber hoses and shitty clamps everywhere. i goto local car shows and peoples cars who are entered have some of the most disgraceful engine bays ive ever seen, and they shouldnt even be allowed to open em unless they are clean/neat. each to their own

my forged jun cosworth pistons were heaps lighter in weight than the stock rb26 cast ones.

give the the guy some credit, and its nice to see decent engine bays in skylines as 99% of em look like plain jane shit, or a smarties packet of painted bits. shiny bits rule, and are well worth it unless u want it to look like a shitta :lol:

hey mate awesome looking motor/bay, just a couple of questions. are the radiator top brackets chromed? and is the power steering pump chromed or polished ally (though im 99% sure they are only steel)? and rocker covers polished or chromed? so how much is your braided line and fittings bill i wonder mines nearly 1200 bucks and mines no where as much line as yours. cheers mate and all the best with it good to see some rb25s highly modified for a change Brad

hey leshy nice work mate, looks nice and clean with the clear lenses i reckon, what are the series 2 taillights worth on yahoo jap autions usually? did u get them through slidewize imports? clear or tinted lights i dont know which too choose, though black ones look dirty compared to the clear ones. just 1/10 of the price cheers Brad

looks absolutely shithouse, wouldnt have it it they gave it to me, wayyyy over the top :lol:

very nice cars guys, but i still think terminals is the best lookin, maybe its the colour, or the fact im not a fan of the series 2 front grille and spotlight setup. no offence intended for the series 2 guys either, they still look sweet as and the white is a really nice colour and makes them look sooo clean its good to see the series 1 and series 2 models in the same photos side by side, for comparision sakes cheers Brad

good work mate, well done with the old 25 motor, and hope u have success at the drags, and dont let these armchair drag racers tell u how to drive it/ treat it as they just jeleous u got more power than 99% of em cheers Brad

no worries mate, good luck with the stroker kit, they seem to be getting popular lately $6k for crank/rods/pistons is a bargain. the jun kit is around 10k plus freight and taxes. keep us informed on these builds too as i like to see what other people are using/doing with their 26's i hope the thread has been informative for most cheers Brad