CruiseLiner

hey mate my house is the opposite side of perth, right up north near joondalup which is around 100km from bayswater. thanks for the comments too. and alex well to get it on was easy as, as my driveway is sloping down to the road, so when the trialer is halfway down the driveway, the trailer is level with the garage floor area the trailer does have a winch too to pull it up, but we just pushed it, though once at the worshop to unload it and we had trouble with it being soo low, and the ramps were on a huge angle and the exhuast and chassis bottomed out so we tried to pull it back on and the the muffler gets caught on the trailer edge so we were spewing, but luckily we had 2 longer planks to make the angle of the ramps alot less and it just managed to get it off with a little scraping oh another note is my stagea is exactly the same length as my vs commodore and wheel base the same too which is suprising, and i got a trailer first off that had ramps that flicked up in the air at the back rather than the pull off ones that are stored underneath and the car was wayyy too long to fit with the ramps up. cheers Brad

well if u read the other thread in the stagea section, i said its not finished today, maybe tommorow as the wiring of the cdi has had a few issues thanks to ray hall and his wrong farkin wiring diagrams, the guy should be shot putting misleading wiring info on the official autronic.com website, costs more money cause i gotta get the shop to rewire it as the outputs r all wrong etc even though i followed the diagram. i gotta say the internet has soooo much bullshit info on it, its not funny, and damn misleading, especially from proper workshops all in all ill get it sorted and hoping for a good cruise on the weekend to clock up the 1000km. im using castrol gtx mineral oil in for the initial tune/run in and then i dont know after that as i havent even thought about it whats the reccomendations for oil brand/types and run in oil change intervals? what amount of km's do i need to change oil/filter? any extra info appreciated cheers Brad

good stuff, i reckon who cares what other people can see (wheels, bodykit, etc) i'd much rather an ear to ear grin when i plant my foot and people still look but with their jaw almost touching the floor, hehe i love it

i think miller the hoon means HR as in HR holden not the skyline model? and my previous point stated that rb26s r no more expensive to maintain than a rb25.

hey mate yer same wheels, just raised the suspension abit to allow clearance i really need some 19s or 18s to fill the wheel arches as they still sit well above the tyres, but power is always more important than appearance

doesnt anyone in society these days appreciate good quality parts/gear, and if u cant afford it then save abit more, i'd much rather buy something once, and not have to replace cheap stuff cause it was a "cheaper option" which ends up costing double cause u will eventually want a decent one in the future anyway once u experience the lag factor. durability is still not well known on some of this gear as well, and garret/hks, trust etc are much better options in the long run.

for show maybe?

slipping belt? stuffed p/s pump, stuffed p/s rack, plus a couple of other possibilities.

if u remove the transfer case u then gotta get a rear end of a rb25 box to add on i'd imagine as the shifter and everything comes outta the transfer case section, and i doubt it would be worth it, just get the right box in the first place. the gtrs have a flange for the tailshaft and gts-ts have a normal yoke style tailshaft too. food for thought

and the lag of a t88 style turbo, going by some of the dyno graphs around

just a little question, i was wondering y on earth dont nissan wiring diagrams tell u the colours of the wires at all? i got a r32 translated workshop manual and it just shows the wires but not the colours which is a real pain in the arse when tracing something. any ideas y?

haha, nice comments except the stabbing eyes out one rang em just then and they aint even got it started yet, and now tommorow at the earliest i been sitting round all day twiddling my thumbs waiting for em to call as they said its a 30-45 min job, and now i gotta wait, arhhh pisses me up the wall all these farkin delays so tommorow hopefully, or maybe even monday as i might not be able to pick it up tommorow night as im workin about 70km from home and we dont finish to 4pm or so im sick of cars and the damn setbacks anyway, cruise over anytime alex, etc ill take ya's for a spin, if its operating correctly

as title says, has anyone run stock or splitfire coilpacks on an engine setup with a CDI unit as a few people around have mentioned coilpacks burning out from getting too hot and only mercury or msd style ones will cope? im using the autronics cdi by the way. just wondering if i could have used stock fitting coilpacks (splitfires) instead of my current msd ones? so whats peoples experiences

Aftermarket parts: 2x3" K&N pod filters - $40 each 2.5" K&N pod filter K&N - $40 custom alloy bov - $100 all parts above are in as new condition and only been used for under 500km. r32 gtr STOCK parts below: crank - $400 rods - $300 cams - $200 coilpacks (x5) - $40 each engine sump and diff housing - $400 fuel rail - $100 fuel pressure regulator - $50 cam gears - $80 air cond pump - $80 oil pump - $100 PM me if ya interested

and thanks guys, hopefully ill be cruisn real soon

http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/in...howtopic=109851 few more pics in a thread in the stagea section, and its at the shop now and im picking it up later this arvo

that ute looks pretty good i reckon, and theres a black series 1 on the swat team pics that looks mad, and also the blue gtr front stagea looks the best for sure they look awesome also notice the black one has a stock front bar but chopped out which looks pretty good i reckon, might be worth a try in the future

well just thought i'd let everyone know that the stagea is finally ready and has been loaded onto a trialer and takin to the tuner today for the run in tune im sitting around waiting to pick it up now, but heres a few photos of the car and engine in the sun for a change rather than in the garage hopefully as goes well and ill be cruisn around in it from tonight clocking up those 1000km quick as i can ill keep ya's all informed on progress

y would it? unless u blew 2 turbos instead of 1? everything else is roughly the same, even gtr gearboxes r cheaper than gtst's

farrrkk not bad, got a dyno graph with it showing boost?

yer they are about $400 i think for the sard one, and then u will need a fuel reg as well, around another $300ish i think (rough prices). dont wanna starve a 25k crate motor anytime soon sump is also stock, worth an upgrade for sure.

cheers guys, still wouldnt mind finding the right way to bleed the abs unit, sydneykid any ideas?

add it onto funkys retirement fund, like the rest of us have

very quiet from funkys end whats the go mate i want it before i plan on selling the stagea?

manual shifted auto would work fine i'd imagine (meaning no ecu input at all) but u gotta manual shift fulltime so depends what u want to use it for? y waste a perfectly good engine like a 26 behind an auto box unless u r pulling serious power and 1/4 mile times anyway? id rather a manual rb25 than an auto 26