CruiseLiner

r u gonna make any without the air scoop thing in it as mine is running custom airbox/pods with cold air feed from underneath rather than the normal stock position? so i want it just the solid flat panel with no hole. plz plz plzzzz

heres a pic the arrow is pointed at the sensor spot. i got the dodgy bit of metal screwed in at the moment in that pic, due to loosing the original sensor. but its usually a single blade sensor exactly the same looking as the water temp one mounted on the top radiator hose outlet on the engine.

sorry mate for some reason i presumed diff gear ratios, and my diff code on the firewall says rc40 and its 4.3 so i dont know if the plate means the ratio or its just a part no.

as i said in previous posts, someone with a series 2 measure between a few points on the bumper (between headlights, etc) and ill measure my series 1 bumper up to compare

LINEMEUP i wonder what the rest of your business associates think about your attitude towards the public, because u dont show a very positive additude, and all u seem to do is bag people out and say they are not as good as you. grow up ffs, u sound about 17 years old the way u act to other peoples comments.

tell the tuner to sort the tune, rather than replace plugs every other week. r they black as or white? my motor tuned by a well known perth shop i used to use ended up with a piston in 2 pieces thanks to the lean afr's. mates car tuned at same shop had 12.5:1 afr's on full boost (18pi) which 3 shops told him are wayyyy to risky to run on a street car unless u monitor the ratios all the time, just a warning mate.

hey mate u have 2 options to use. hole 1 is the one the main engine harness goes through and is located under the abs unit mounted on the passenger side . and hole 2 is on the drivers side under the gaurd (behind the undergaurd cover panel, and has the headlight wiring through it, which is probably the easier of the 2 to access. hole 1 is a pain to get too i might add. hope it helps Brad

i'd imagine the sensor just hasnt been plugged back in since the engine change. i think its on the drivers side of the engine block down at the lower part nearest to the sump, and near the oil filter itself. check all the little sensors have plugs onto them.

the turbo water feed runs around the back of the 26 as well, and yes it would be a damn tight squeeze i reckon. my stagea bay is huge compared to r32's though, so maybe ill fit it if sk does in a 32.

my late 96 auto s1 stagea has 4.3 diff gears front and back, and i highly doubt they have been changed from stock. gtr's have 4.11 gears and gts-4 has the same 4.3 as stageas.

yer the top bellhousing r easy when u have done it about 10 times. easiest way is to unbolt rear gearbox x member and drop it down as far as u can and use about 1.5m of extensions and a 14mm socket i think from memory, not too hard when u get used to it ive had my rb26 engine in and out of 2 different cars now about 15 times all up looks daunting the first time, but soon becomes pretty easy and u just get used to trying to get into annoying little spots to turn a bolt 1/10 of a turn and take 20 mins for 1 bolt alone, hehe. the joys of cars

same question as craved, my area behind the head in my engine bay is pretty damn tight, and heater hoses r right in the way...

as Denver stated, i also have just finished building my engine up at home, and he has helped me from day 1 to the final start up with awesome, reliable, unbiased, helpful information every single time i PM'd him thanks gary your a true asset to the entire sau community also have puchased over $2000 in suspension gear and all arrived on my door step promptly without a problem, highly reccomended person to deal with. cheers Brad

nice motor mate, looks the goods cheers

sounds like u know a fair bit, i sure dont remember anything from my old skool days einstein(sp?) in the house

hey i tryed to polish my stock fuel rail and it came up nice and went really shitty yellow after a while, didnt look good at all for the rice look good info though, ive already bought mine but it cant do any harm now can it

no worries mate good luck with it

i took mine off but took no photos, dont want everyone turning their garret versions into the hks ones now do we didnt look too special to me though. not worth the extra $1000 bucks anyway

if u have a remote filter setup i just poured oil down the in pipe to the oil filter sandwich plate and it virtually forces it into the oil pump, as at the moment u will have an air lock, which u need abit of oil in the pump to let it start sucking it up. i left the oil line off and cranked it and wait for oil to start coming out. or take off the turbo oil feed and check oil is coming out when cranking. good luck mate Brad

very true, only goes off when backing off the throttle. worth protecting the turbo though considering the pressure on it when the air suddenly comes back out the air filter.

i got stock buckets on 11.35mm lift cams. thicker shims, but no where near 13mm thick. around 4-5mm thick.

hes left the country i reckon

also requires the machining of head for large lift (over 10.8mm i think) and shims were around 5mm thick compared to stock 3.5mm ones i think (all set up by a head specialist for exact clearances on all buckets) yes cams are big and they sound nice too a little annoying in traffic with the shacking of the car at lights, vrmm vrmm vrmm at idle but they sound sooo tough, and will be worth it when i can put some boost into the motor after run in. almost sounds like a rotary when idling, but alot deeper.

my jun cams, 272/11.35mm lift, have smaller base circle and use thicker shims under the stock buckets to get the correct clearances (plus hd valve springs, titanium retainers). not sure about the other info sorry.

come on funky u have been very very quiet since organising this