CruiseLiner

get rid of it while it still has compression, as it wont last long

i actually find auto more dangerous in the wet, if u put ya foot down too far accidently for an overtake etc, and it kicks back a gear and hits boost, that usually means sideways action if ya not careful. manual is easy and gives u 100% control. u will have trouble selling an auto in the future too <_<

stock block, when it cracks then ill get the n1, and harmonic will soon be the os giken one. the whole engine assembly and crank was balanced and the crank is spot on, and they didnt have to touch it at all. theres always something not good enough and the money spending never ends so i think when it cracks ill actually change it, rather than assume it will, and im only chasing 500rwhp, and ive seen about 100 gtr's running this power with a stock block. and plenty with 600hp+ on stock blocks, so i think its not a definate problem on all engines. plenty of motors are making over 600hp with 1/2 the parts i got and i think ive gone major overkill for the power i want, but some think ive gone cheap with the build B) theres always sceptics, and only time will tell what happen hks t04z was $3400 from nengun about 6 months ago, brand new. plus $280 for the genuine hks v band flange u have to use for the exhaust. cheers Brad

cheers mate, im wanting one WITHOUT the airbox duct scoop thing as im using a pod setup anyway. look forward to some engraving pics, if possible and anodizing too if u can ill be grabing one for sure, just need to access my options thanks Brad

sk's aint bayside blue im 99.9% sure, unless he has done a respray in the last few weeks :lol:

hey funky, u got pm mate, the 6166 is me, i paid over the counter at the bank, and ive given details in the PM. cheers Brad

i found those roof rack cover strips on yahoo japan for $480, not sure what brand they are though. i think i'd rather leave the racks on for the volvo/sleeper type look

hey mate, well i went and booked it in for the run in tune and the earliest the tuner can do it is march 16th. so i just gotta wait now good choice, ill let u know as soon as i get some driving action, and dyno figures how good it is

hey bass junky, nice work mate, just got a few questions before i say i want one for sure are they gonna be scratched alot? as im planning on polishing mine like a mirror and if its got too many scratches then it wont be possible without heaps of work. have u got any pics of the anodizing in black and other colours as im unsure how they look? if i plan on polishing it then the symbol is probably better left off. have u got a pic of the emblem engraved into some ally yet? sorry for the questions, just want to make sure i choose the correct stuff for my engine bay how close are these to being finished? cheers Brad

hey mate i noticed your car is missing the roof racks, just wondering if u know who makes the cover panels for it when u take the racks off? anyone else happen to know either? cheers Brad

well done, nice car looks same as mine pretty much except the rims 3 stageas to cruise in perth isnt bad cheers Brad

nah im using the autometer sender unit, which worked fine about 6 months ago when i last tried it, so im just thinking it aint cranking fast enough to produce full pressure. the gauge goes to 0 when i connect it up so i'd assume the gauge is working fine. its got the jun oil pump which flows alot more, but would take more volume to get it full and flowing properly i'd imagine. so yer oil is coming out of the turbo feed slowly, not a full tube of pressure though, but thats cause its only cranking maybe? oil filter is pumping oil through too, i just dont really wanna start it at all till its got full pressure, as if i start it and it doesnt create full pressure it can cause alot of damage running without any oil whatsoever (except the oil from rebuilding and assembly, which wont last 5 min at 1000rpm per minute. do u guys know if i need more revs to get the JUN pump flowing? thanks for all the info/ideas people, much appreciated Brad

looks awesome, except the front bar and grille are terrible. i'd be interested in the rear bar and sideskirts though, definately look classy so wheres the bodykit gurus when ya need em

i have no where near finished the list dont u worry, thats only the basic basics i can think of in the 5 min i had. engine sits str8 on the stagea x member no worries about that using the gtr mounts. u will need a gtr fuel pump in the tank i reckon, and gtr brakes, gtr axles, gtr diff, etc etc etc the list is long... virtually u need a full gtr to strip for the parts. ill post more tommorow guys and rough prices of everything, plus a few photos of the handbrake bracket/mountings. hope it helps Brad

ok since ive had a few requests for detailed info and to stop others asking the same q's here is the run down on whats needed for the conversion to put the gtr rb26 and 5 speed into a rs four stagea. heres the first part and ill add bits as i remember. rb26 conversion parts needed... rb26 engine -any model doesnt matter which, the later the better and low km's even better, the r34 has the ball bearing turbos standard, 32 and 33 are ceramic. rb26 5 speed gearbox - i used a r32 gearbox as it suited my twin plate clutch setup from my previous setup (rb26/gts-t 5 speed/vl calais). there is 2 types, r32 has one type and the 33/34 are the other type, push and pull are the 2 types but im unsure which is which. rb26 clutch/flywheel/pressure plate - i'd be using an aftermarket clutch for sure, even a single plate is fine, as the original one would be almost stuffed totally by now, and u dont wanna have to remove the gearbox a few weeks after the conversion as its a heavy heavy sucker. Jim Berry is a well known shop who makes strong single plate clutches, or i'd even go a twin plate if u plan any future mods above 350-400rwhp. gtr pedal box/clutch master and slave cylinders/vacuum booster setup/vacuum canister/one way valve/clutch hydraulic line - depending on your choice of whether to use the vacuum assisted clutch master cylinder setup from the gtr's then your other option is the stagea rs four S setup without the vacuum booster. the gtr vacuum canister and one way valve is needed for the vacuum master setup only, and helps it have vacuum on boost and the one way valve stops the booster blowing to bits when it comes onto boost. this is mounted in the engine bay up in the drivers side corner closest to the windscreen area. stagea front and rear tailshafts - both fit straight up without any problems r32/r33 handbrake setup - with short cable section still on the end as it fits perfectly in length when connected onto the stagea rear cable sections. need some pics to explain it better. also mounting of the handbrake assembly is pretty simple, needs drivers seat out of the car to drill one of the two holes, as its down the side of the gearbox tunnel abit. i actually made another large bracket off the handbrake brackets to spread the load onto the floor panels abit more, using thick bar and making 3 mounting points and now its strong as hell compared to the initial little brackets on it. this means no welding is required to strengthen the floor area. stagea 4wd sump/front diff - the stagea diff and sump arrangement is exactly the same as the gtr's. except the stagea diff has different ratio gears in it (mine were 4.3 compared to gtr's 4.11), i'd strongly reccomend a baffle setup of some sort on the sump and a capacity increase as well, as they are well known for the oil surging problem in 4wd applications because of the high g forces compared to 2wd cars which struggle for traction. i'd go the trust sump extension and extended oil pickup with baffles and trapdoors if any sort of spirited driving is planned, and track work it is a must if u want the bearings to last. rb26 engine ecu - this is the part im not familiar with as mine was done with an aftermarket ecu setup from the beggining, but the gtr ecu and loom is required (if u dont plan on running aftermarket ecu setup) and requires the removal of the rb25 engine loom and untape it and remove all the NON-engine related wiring, such as passenger gaurd indicator, abs plugs, under dash big main plugs for heater/air con etc. then attach this to the gtr loom and run it through the firewall and connect up all the sensors onto the engine and also the other car accessories just mentioned. thats all i know with this setup so best to talk to someone who has done it themselves. gtr radiator hoses - straight fit with no mods required gtr intercooler - fits up perfectly between chassis rails, and not sure if gtr pipework will fit as the stageas chassis is wider than 32/33 gtr's im pretty sure. so therefore custom piping is needed and either aluminium or stainless steel is the options, mild steel is just plain rubbish and will rust away inside eventually causing big problems. rb26 air flow meters/air filter ducting setup/air filters (pods or panel) - only require afm's on cars running stock ecu or power fc setups. and requires some pod filters or a custom air box setup unless u can make something from the tiny stagea airbox setup. more to come when i can... cheers Brad

so do i crank it with 12 litres in it to start getting pressure then drain it, or drain it and then crank for pressure? i been trying this arvo, poured it down the oil filter line and its got oil pumping out, though not heaps at a time, and the turbo feed is pumping oil out though not alot of pressure either, though my autometer oil pressure gauge is showing 0 still will give your idea a go tommorow for sure, cheers mate for the info Brad

nice and heavy too, watch it dooesnt fall on you i did mine in and out atleast 10 times about 6 months ago when i had clutch troubles and that was within a week. u get quicker thats for sure, ended up all out in about 45 min in the end and an hour to put it all back or something stupid haha

dark for sure, clear doesnt suit red imho.

front diff are all non lsd and even all gtr's have non lsd front diffs. (except maybe the n1's im not 100% sure though) and all gtr';s are rear lsd so yer... dunno about the rest of the q's sorry Brad

rofl hhahahah ams u absolute funny bastard, the yellow suits the red paint job perfecto arnt they meant to be on the front end for the drags ?

alternator or battery maybe? did u have air con on as well? sounds like the battery isnt holding charge or the alternator isnt charging the battery properly. worth a try cheers Brad

no unfortunately i didnt pack the oil pump with vasoline, always get told these things after the build is finished haha. so any other methods except the crank and crank and crank 10 billion times until its got pressure (with the spark plugs out obviously)?

hey guys im about to crank the old 26 over for the first time in the next few days to get initial oil pressure before we actually start it. i had trouble last time when my motor had no oil in it for ages and then i cranked it (not rebuilt, was just not used for 6 months sitting around) and it wouldnt pick up pressure, so we eventually pulled one of the oil lines from the remote filter setup off and poured oil down it and it worked str8 away (must have been an air blockage in the system). so whats the best way to get pressure the quickest, besides the method i used before as my remote filter is under the car now so its abit difficult to pull it up above the engine again. cheers guys Brad

heres some pics of the bumper as stock (number plate area is solid plastic), and some of the cooler without bumper on (gtr cooler) and some with the bumper on once i chopped it. its hardly noticable with the front bumper on and standing up unless u really look for it. i also chopped the front bumper support bar to allow more air to the cooler. cheers Brad

off topic a little bit sorry, but does anyone know if u can hook up the front torque gauge from a gtr onto a stagea series 1 which i dont know if it has the pin out of the attessa ecu or not? ive got the tps signal hooked up and the tacho so it should work as per normal without the engine ecu and using an autronics smc? is their anyway of telling if its working correctly without the front torque gauge? cheers Brad