CruiseLiner

http://video.google.com/videoplay?docid=-7...176590388&q=hks thats a vid of it testing it on and then turned off. ants gtr i suppose, being the hks distributors?

whats the v-cam system worth and can i run with aftermarket 272/11.35mm cams ? finding someone in WA to set it up is the hardest part i bet. are these available yet? might be well worth the money if someone knows how to set it up correctly. any ideas how it is setup? dyno tuned i suppose and similair setup to aftermarket ecu's to tune? cheers Brad

i'd be very very interested in a copy of the gaurds or a mould, whichever, so make sure u let us know if u plan on copying them so around 4K for the entire conversion with lights, is that about right or what? plenty of prices thrown around but no definate answers. gotta make mine look like a gtr now the motor is almost finshed cheers Brad

u and terminal make a very valid point, and u are looking at the conversion costing around 10-12k plus the diff as well (another 1.5-2k) and thats alomst 15k, and say 18-20k for your stagea is 35k, and its still not a geuine 260rs and its alot of work doin it all if its available already done for around the same costs. i only did mine cause i had the 26 from my previous car otherwise i woulda went 260rs straight out, and i didnt realise the rear diff and axles r weak as piss, and remember the brakes r useless too, so even r23 4 spots aint gonna be too crash hot, so brembos or ap racing,etc is another 3K or more. so i'd be thinking 260rs if u gonna go spend $15k on yours. sometimes its just easier and smarter to sell up what you got and start again. cheers Brad p.s. RBNT did u get your 260rs stagea from perth autowholesale? i remember someone saying it went to darwin or somewhere like that.

have u got a bad history of accidents or something

nice, very nice, black mmmm, and series 2 manual, even better cant wait to cruise it up with some other stageas thats gonna make my silver look boring as hell now wish i waited for the series 2 models, but its good to know about the stageas in detail when others are only just purchasing and finding out good luck with it and how long till its here? cheers Brad

yes u would use the gtr ecu, and a gtr wiring harness, just need to untape the stagea engine harness and pull out some of the wires running to the front headlights, passenger side gaurd indicator, etc to make everything work, and the attessa im not 100% sure about to be honest, im still not 100% sure mine is working correctly with the autronics smc ecu i have and how the guy hooked it up, and having no torque split gauge its hard to tell for sure. attessa only has 3 wires from the ecu anyway, throttle signal +, throttle signal -, and TPS i think are the 3. running the gtr ecu will make it soo much easier (and cheaper) to setup.

i reckon someone in w.a should start selling some cheap gearsets and they would be millionaires or even second hand gtr boxes as they will be breaking like twigs between u, simon, bobbo, mine and a couple of other high power 26's haha

my stagea says RC40 too but my diff gears front and back are 4.3's so possibly a ratio change from a previous owner, but rest of the car was pretty stock except exhuast and a plug i found from an old SAFC install. oh and all the autech version badges on it (previous owner must have been a ricer haha) . anyone else actually pulled there diff covers off and checked the ratio?

just watch the r32 and even r33 rb26 engines, they dont seem to last long, and rebuilds are around 5k minimum if it starts losing compression (very very common on r32's especially cause of the high km's). i'd be either going a rb30 bottom end and 25 head or something for the same cost and u know the engine is perfect condition as its brand new. 26 is well well worth it though, and cant beat the revs the 26 pulls compared to the other rb engines my first nickname on here was RB26VL when i did the conversion so try searching i may have some mentioned some good info, and then i was under the name STAGEZILLA, and now this (thanx to the local w.a moderators B) ) not very difficult conversion at all, and i have a bad memory and cant remember everything that had to be changed etc as it was about 18 months ago now, and ive done diff conversions and a rebuild in the meantime, so my minds abit scattered ask the questions and ill answer them cheers Brad

that bracket looks like a a non-booster setup clutch pedal box, as the 2 studs out the end would go through the firewall and the master cylinder bolts onto that. i got pics of my setup with the booster on if u want, but not the non-booster setup.

the pedal will be the same as a gts-t without the vacuum assistance master like the gtr's, but not a real big issue anyway. and the pedal box doesnt bolt in anyway at all, its gotta be modified no matter what as their aint anything to bolt it to without making new brackets off the pedal box, but its simple as to mount it. anything can fit anything (it helps having a welder and a person who can weld at home all the time for assistance though )

i thought the idicators where on the sides of the lights, and the bottom orange ones where just extra little ones arn't they? i actually thought they were the fog lights, but now i remember the fog ones are combined in the main lights (havent driven the car stuff all in the 18 months of ownership remember )

im thinking of removing my front orange lights and putting mesh in instead and some ducting to the air filter, and also a duct from the bottom hole in the bumper for double the cold air might mesh all the holes to go full stealth

i have been saying to a few people lately, the stagea needs the v8 torque to get it going, and as a nice cruiser, and i mean the nissan vh45de would be ideal. just gotta run it in 2wd only i suppose. if my 26 goes is something little (180sx, etc) then i reckon thats the next engine i'd put in the stagea for sure. not excessive power just an exhuast and filter should make around 250hp at wheels or so, and sound sweet too one project at a time

come on its not impossible and im sure u can use a gts-t clutch master cylinder that doesnt have the vacuum booster and then use a gts-t pedal box/pedal to suit (i havent tried it but i bet 99% it would work fine, just abit harder clutch pedal) so its a simple 2" hole in the firewall and then modify the clutch box to suit i still think 6k is a bloody lot for a conversion unless the motors coming out for him to cut the hole, etc. each to their own manuals rule by the way abit harsh on the driveline thats all :lol:

hey alex sorry but ive decided i better keep the auto gearbox as incase i change back to auto one day (if manual wont hold up) and i thought id use a normal 2wd auto and then i remembered its gotta be 4wd so i can only use this one and no other types. also i'd just go buy a c.v. joint from nissan for around the same price i'd imagine and its brand new. sorry for the stuff around also the airbox is sold to Darrin, ill send details as soon as i get a chance to post it (friday)

cool cheers, i know the previous owner i used to chat online abit with him, just wondered where the bits might have gone thats all

hey darren ill take a pic of mine as im not 100% sure they are the same and find a pic of a series 2 one just to double check. ill hold it for you until u find out for sure, though i cant see em being any different for any reason. cheers Brad

ok the car has done 125 000km when i bought it (thats what the odometer reads anyway) and gearbox was perfect cond when removed, and ive since removed the transfer case off the auto to compare the transfer case internals to my gtr manual transfer case internals. the end gear is a little bit rusty inside the end of the box from being exposed to the air and having no oil on it, but 5 min with a wire brush would fix it up perfectly. it comes with the torque convertor yes. and shipping to melbourne i do not know haha, ill have to weigh it and find out if u r seriously interested that is? the axle is complete end to end and yes it has the cv joint still on it. (its only the one axle as the drivers side got clean snapped in half) the rear hubs are complete with wheel bearings, except none of the diff arms come with it (but u can just use your own anyway) let me know alex cheers brad

hey not everyone uses a "proffesionial" engine builder, y do they have too? first hand experience helps u learn alot of stuff (and possibly f**k it all up too haha)

just added my list of bits and pieces sitting around from my stagea, for anyone interested

ok heres a small list of some bits and pieces i just found in my back garage. all parts are stagea specific (obviously) and from a series 1 rs-four... front swaybar $40 rear swaybar $40 passenger side rear axle $50 auto gearbox x-member $50 airbox (minus front air feed) $50 (SOLD) intercooler duct (from standard cooler) $20 auto tranny cooler and lines $50 auto shifter setup $50 footbrake cable and handle assembly $70 rear diff (non lsd, and has gtr 4.11 gears in it because i used the stagea gears in my new diff, so u just have to swap the main crown wheel and small gear over to your stagea ones) $100 thats about all at the moment (im in perth also, and willing to send over east) if ya want photos just tell me what u are after and ill take some cheers Brad

wonder who bought it, i want some bits and pieces from the interior mainly, any ideas who owns it now?

you got another from me today, lemme know when u get it