Amaru

spotted... a datsun tearing me a new asshole because my clutch is stuffed and he tried to take advantage of it 7000rpm and one dirty as smell later, i finally got moving... doh On a good note though, hks twin plate arrived on tuesday

Novotel in the city... rooms are pretty good, and from memory it has secure underground parking (you need a key to get in there). And its right in the middle of the city and about 5 mins walk to the royal theatre.

theres another way of getting around it... buy from a local company

saville park is good and pretty secure (its where all the rally guys stay when they come to town) but probably pricey too... how much you looking at spending? How long you staying for? an interstate member coming up is always an excuse to go out for some drinkies

Go to supercheap auto with the model number. They can order them in (as they deal with brembo) and last I checked had a reasonable price.

Haha well I might have to pull my car next week... camshafts havnt arrived and im contemplating a new oil pump as well...

Not true. After talking to a few people off here, it was agreed its possible to support the engine in the engine bay, remove the gearbox and cross member. You can then take the sump off. Mines going through this process next week, if you arnt in a rush ill tell you how it goes.

Mine have burnt (got heat spots) on them extremely quickly and make a nasty ass grinding noise when braking. I have never really braked overly hard with them and have always let them warm up and cool down. Not really impressed. Ill try upload some pictures tomorrow of the heat marks, basically the whole disc is covered in them.

Just wondering if anyone knows of any distributors/sellers in Australia of Advan tyres (specifically the A049 or A048).

Its a 14 year old car, the thermal stresses the turbos would have been through wouldve been enormous. It happens. The day I picked mine up (92 model) driving home from Sydney one of the turbos let go. At least hes replacing them before you buy it But do the standard things get a compression/leakdown test done and get a good mechanic to have a look over the whole car.

yeah the white r32 was me :Oops:

Ah ok cool, hoping for similar power curve on my 2530's without as much top end of course. Anyway as I said, congratulations

Teach your techs not to bust shit and we wont be having this problem

congratulations very nice power there curious when you say forgies etc, still got standard rods or? also how much more top end do the GT-RS have than 2530? (e.g HKS rate the 2530 at 320ps each) anyways all that aside, congratulations, youve gotta be happy with that EDIT: i know id be extremely happy with 400kw off a set of low mount turbos

googs i should be along to your dyno day to help uphold the nissan badge too it goes to ed on the 23rd for all that extra stuff i mentioned to you last week

Ooh any chance we can meet up next weekend after hes tuned yours Jayce? Mine goes in on Monday 23rd to get some more stuff done and Ed's going to tune it this time instead of Pete, so would be interested to see how he does

ah nice whered you run into him (the r34 dude)? did you tell him to come on here?

Hows the queues today ed? Telstra f#@cked up hardcore last night, and theres still problems all over the place... I assume it wouldnt be too much fun

Does it miss at idle? On idle disconnect a coil pack, see if it makes a difference to the way the car idles and tbhen plug it back in. Do this one by one for all coils while the car is running. The coil you unplug and doesnt change the idle of the car is the stuffed one (if they're good when you unplug them it will start idling funny) Hope thats it

Theres a very nice one in Canberra, has a VG30DET from a Nissan Leopard with Trust TD06-25g making over 300kw. Dyno Chart Its also for sale, [email protected] if youre interested, has *ALOT* of goodies on it. Ive had the pleasure of being a passanger in this car it is *damn* quick and looks gorgeous as well.

It seems to differ from car to car (depending on oil type, oil filter type) but my understanding is idle oil pressure should be around 2 bar. When I start my car cold, oil pressure on idle sits at 3 bar. I dont give the car a hard time until the oil temp comes up to 70 degrees on the factory gauge and oil pressure has dropped to 2 bar also on the factory gauge (gtr). Seems to have worked for me so far...

http://www.scuderiaciriani.com/rx7/power_FC_manual.pdf enjoy

Engine/Car: RB26DETT / R32 GTR Type of failure: Small portion of valve guide snapped and entered cylinder 3 scoring the top of the piston and cylinder wall. Was only found out after the gearbox let go and pulled the engine out for an overhaul. Other than this, rest of cylinders were fine and engine was extremely healthy for 70,000kms. Apparantly had been kept in a very good state of tune and no evidence of detonation or other factors causing premature wear. Factors influencing the failure: To this day, still no idea. Just something that 'happened' State of tune of the engine: Standard internals, standard turbos, apexi pod filters, power fc, avc-r. Running around 200kw Suspension and tyres: Standard shocks, project mu springs. Oil used and service interval: Mobil 1 5W-40 General comments: Whilst not an engine failed as such, it did require attention as the piston was scored it had a weak point and would have let go sooner or later. There was no real way to tell this had happened, to me the engine didnt seem to be running any differently, but the marks looked "fresh" and had no buildups of carbon on them. Engine now rebuilt with forged internals.

I have a new standard GTR oil pump on my car, and had the engine rebuilt 18,000kms ago. After running it in, it ran Mobil 1 for 15,000kms of those 18,000 and all I can say is im glad I changed. The car could not hold oil pressure with Mobil 1, always dropping down to 1 bar on idle (which freaked me a bit). Also on idle there was alot of valve train noise. Changed to Motul 300V and have only done 2,000kms on it, but it seems better. Idle oil pressure while still low to begin with is now back up to 2 bar at idle, and theres still valve train noise (as there is on all GTR's) but not quite as much. One thing I have noticed though, and I give credit to Mobil 1 for is, without an oil cooler after some normal driving through the city, Mobil 1 never rose above around 80 degrees temp. The motul doing the same sort of driving (and its even colder here now than when I had the mobil 1 in) sits on 90 or slightly above. But as a whole, I wont be using Mobil 1 ever again. Bad idle oil pressure, it also started burning off after 4000kms (which a few other GTR owners I know report the same problem) which is apparantly due to its chemical structure breaking down earlier compared to other oils, and when drained after 4000kms it came out semi thick and sludgy. Didnt install me with confidence after seeing it come out.

The same thing happened to me (coincidently not long after I got a wheel alignment done) and it was the driveshaft bearing (I cant remember the proper name for it, but if you look under the car, the driveshaft that runs from the gearbox to the rear diff is actually 2 pieces with a bearing in the middle). There is a rubber protector around it which can start wearing out and causing it to clunk/vibrate. My mechanic also said its not uncommon for the bracket which holds this up (if the rubbers ok) to come loose and fall down a bit, which will cause the same thing. Im not sure if its what is wrong with yours, but maybe check it out. Mine started out as just a small vibration and only really happened in 5th gear, and then got so bad it was clunking about and hitting the bottom of the car (my rubber wasnt worn, just the cradle had come loose) after a few weeks. It would only take you 5 mins to jump under the car and check, so maybe worth while