blind_elk

I checked the coils on my RB25DET. Between pins IB and G, I got approx 1.4 ohms. There is no continuity on any other pin combination.

Check that the pistons in the calipers are actually moving in and out (not stuck in the caliper). You may need a caliper overhaul. Also, a good quality pad will help. (The Gloria, I think, uses tha same caliper as the Skyline, so it should also use the same pad) The broken tension rod bushing will more affect handling than braking.

Or Near(est) Offer

Gold doesn't corrode (oxidise) like copper.

Not something I carry around in my hip pocket. I'll see what I can do over the weekend. Meanwhile, go and have a look at your engine - I'm sure you will be able to see them (easier from above, down through the plenum runners).

There seems to be a problem with the "Last login" info. All day today (5/8), I've been in and out of the forums, but all day it's been showing my last visit as "Yesterday 7:24pm"

There's usually 2 of them. They are located on the block, underneath the inlet manifold. One is located near Cyl#2, and the other near Cyl#5.

runs between the gearbox and the speedo unit Don't think so. Try a wrecker. Yes. Particularly where it passes through the firewall.First, remove the instrument cluster and confirm that the end of the cable can turn - that will usually mean it's broken somewhere along it's length. AFAIK, they aren't repairable.

www.dba.com.au will tell you

You probably have a broken speedo cable.

Currently upgrading R32 GTS4 set (4.375) to the set from a Stagea (4.08). PM if you are interested. (in Melbourne)

Torque is fed to the front wheels under 1 of 2 (main) conditions: 1. Acceleration 2. Loss of (rear) wheel traction. 1 - sensors under the centre consol sense longitudinal (acceleration) and lateral (cornering) G-forces, then the ATTESSA computer evaluates and sends appropriate drive to the front wheels. 2- uses the ABS sensors to detect rear-wheel slip. I get the "jump" often, usually on the highway where 2 lots of bitumen join. I don't know what causes it exactly, but it's probably a loose / dirty / ? connector somewhere in the ATTESSA system.

You have a good strong battery? You have compression? (horrid thought - lots of bent valves!)

I might have one that will do the job - it's from a C34 Stagea. PM if you're interested.

Hooray, finally. I can reply to a post. Thanks Prank. Now for comments. My PM area seems to have been reduced to only 50 messages! We don't seem to have the "location" info any more. Some of the smilies don't come through (but I think that's a problem with IE rather than the forums).

Didn't mean "made" as in "manufactured", I meant "made to be", ie adjusted to be all the same weight. If you get my drift.

That's a KA-24 engine isn't it? 4-cylinder job? Is there room up front for 2 extra cylinders? What about shoe-horning a VG30DETT from a Z32?

I had a similar problem. I simply removed the Nissan plug and replaced it with standard spade terminals. Works!

AFAIK, the pistons are made the same weight, the rods are made the same weight. Then presumably the piston/rod assemblies all weigh the same. So the reciprocating mass is balanced.Then the crank is matched to the flywheel / clutch, so the rotating mass is balanced.

Thanks Steve. I would hope that they understood the significance of the counterweight. After all, I'm sure it's not the first one they have done. That aside, why would the flywheel not be in balance in the first place? I guess the metallurgy wouldn't necessarily be perfect, so that some portions of the billet might be denser than other areas, right? Or the gear teeth attached to the outside rim might not be perfect, right?

It seems to be a problem in the starter circuitry. When I had that problem, my mech re-wired the starter solenoid so it got power direct from the battery (used the factory trigger wire to switch a relay). Haven't had a problem since.

From memory, pin 7 on the ECU is the tacho signal.

I believe that to be BS for a start. But, it will depend how the 2 lights were disabled as to how easy it will be to enable them. If they have simply cut the wires, then simply re-join / re-solder them. I personally disabled the 2 inner taillamps by simply cutting the wires. So now I have 2 tail and 4 stop lamps.

If the diff is locked (welded), then it's locked. It will be a piglet to park the car. It will skip the inside tyre when doing U-turns. It will be a bigger piglet if you have to push the car around a corner. A LSD is only "locked" when it needs to be, and that is usually only when the centre senses a loss of traction in 1 wheel and transfers drive to the opposite wheel.

Head gasket - don't think so. Pistons - definitely not (RB25 is 8mm bigger bore, your RB20 pistons are only 1.25 mm bigger than standard). And the RB20 pistons are flat-topped, while the RB25's are domed. So even if they fitted, you would have much reduced compression ratio.