rev210

They have a 0.6 front and 0.64 rear AR, also called lemans turbo's.

Bass Junky, You over cammed the motor since you only have a stock turbo. Like you said the high flow will like those cams however. GTR's are a different story due to the larger flow on the twin turbos. On my old R33 gtst I ran a standard inlet cam with a larger duration and lift exhaust cam. There was an improvement through the power band. I did my selection based on advice from someone who does camshafts for a living.

HKS-R33, You have a fairly low terminal speed. This is most likely a lack of power to make a 13 since your 60ft is pretty good. You are doing the right thing off the line but, perhaps because your Pod filter has no heat sheild you are sucking in lovely hot engine bay air instead of ambient temp stuff, making your power die off. My old R33 gtst had an exhaust and pineapples only (everything else stock) and ran 13.8's pretty easy on 205's. Get a heat sheild and see how you go. Scooby_steve, Bummer you aren't near a drag strip. G-tech's are ordinarily on the side of faster street times but, at the end of the day higher or lower it's not equal. It's probably the best tool you have however to prepare you for the track since you can practice various launches and tyre pressures. Tyre pressure wise 20psi is usually quite effective for most street compound tryes. I'd say the launches rpm wise you do on the road will need a little more refining once you hit the strip but, it's the best starting point.

Scooby_steve, As you are probably aware the g-tech is simply not comparable to a real drag strip.If you have been to one you know what I mean. The title of this thread reffers to a real drag strip time. You will find the surface on a drag strip quite a bit different to a road surface. In particular you will find there is a finer line of traction to aim at vs a normal road. You need to hit the bullseye between bog down and wheelspin. G-techs will tend to give you a much better time than you will get on a drag strip.

I think quite a number of cars have issues with ignition at revs higher than 4500rpm. Weak spark at more demanding rpm and load usually shows up as a flatening off of the power curve. There is not necessarily a 'miss' that gives this away, usually that occurs once the coil leakage has reached a point where you can see a little spark jumping about and there is a visable crack on the coil. Next time you change the spark plugs notice how heat effected the wiring is to the coils , it cops alot of abuse not just from the heat but also from the movement associated with plug changes. The heat makes the wiring brittle. The other difference is the fact that a dyno does not create a rolling road environment. Where things like altitude and moving air can be faithfully replicated. More attention to how air flows into the airbox gets better results in real racing environments. Some times this is a disadvantage on the dyno when the fan doesn't get the airflow directed the same way as the cars areodynamics create at speed when air is say 'rammed' into the duct created. If your tune doesn't create this environment well enough then what might appear to be a good tune for power at the dyno with it's airflow characteristics may not suit the real world and you can easily end up with a little 'power hole' down at the track. Fine tuning your car on the dyno is best done with the bonnet 'down'.

scooby_steve, Have a look at your 60ft times and then check out your terminal speed. If you have a 60ft of say 2.2 or better and a terminal of 100mph / 160kmh then that is good enough for a 13 second pass. If you are still in the 90's for mph and have a 60ft of 2.3 or greater that will tell you something about your present time slips. There is a 'drag' section under the motorsport part of the forums which would be good for you to place a thread under too.

No Paul, The engine gets a maximum of 370rwhp or 7000rpm whichever comes first when I go tune it. I am also going to keep the boost around 1 bar or even a tad lower.

Just bought some Nismo turbos rebuilt to RS581 specs.

You can add 100,000kms to the 150,000kms to get how many kms my engine has done so far Service them well and be sensible with the power and they last a very long time. Mind you my standard turbos have just been pulled out due to the rear one popping a ceramic turbine. I have N1's going on shortly but, I will tune the motor to a max of 340-350rwhp by flattening off the top end with a richer fuel mixture. And I will aim at doing this with the least amount of boost necessary. All the tuning focus will be on getting the power on as early as possible in the rev range. Strange as it may sound a set of upgrade camshafts can help your engine last longer by reducing the required boost level, peak power level and reducing required revs to deliver the same or slightly better accelleration. It does this by increasing the power band and average power delivery, if the cams are not too radical like the Tomei 260's this is a very good path to follow for a motor that is a bit long in the tooth for an owner who wants to go a little quicker.

Pat at mettams is fantastic. I used his high quality workmanship on all my vehicles for years.

Good turbos these are. good luck with the sale Melv.

Pm sent

Thanks Paul.

send me a PM I need turbo's, mine are just comming off now. Specs too please (kms / year / and model ie: R32 , R33 or R43 N1's). I am ready to buy!!! Cheers

turbo's on the front cut? Standard or aftermarket?

thanks brendan but, as I mentioned I am not really after anything much bigger than the stockies.

Cheers Paul. Always the way. Some R34 standards would be ok though.

I had the classic old age R32 gtr experience the other day coming down the freeway. One of the turbo's decided to die leaving me with the unenviable task of deciding how to go about a fix. I've got most of the bits and peices off now and by the looks the good old rear turbo has done a seal and the front one is not real flash either. Both have a nice little puddle of oil in the compressor housing although the rear one is more like a 'pool'. I was kindly offered a second hand unit assuming one turbo to be shagged but, since I can see a fast repeat of my present situation and all the mucking around repaeted I am considering a rebuild on both. Just wondering if anyone has a place they have used and prices for going down this path. Alternatively if someone knows of a person getting rid of some standard R34 gtr units? I'm not necessarily wanting an upgrade in power since the motor is a bit old and the budget for the support accessories is just not there.

It's not too hard. Endure retail hell for several years. Go mad. Start a family. Become obsessive about chilli's and coffee. Inhale too much burnout smoke. Go to uni and study subjects that will not help get you a job anywhere. However you must never study an IT degree as this labels you a 'sucker for life' and excludes you from most jobs with a 'cool' element. Do these things in any order you like and I'm sure you'll get a job like mine, maybe a better one even.

Still doing the same old same old. Get paid to go to the Gold Coast Lexmark Indy 300 every year. Take Clients over put them in a hotel, get corporate seating, buy people drinks every night and all day. Such hard work

geez that engine bay of yours sure says " I've got nitrous " . I noticed you still have a little bit of line between the solenoids and the fogger, the way I had mine setup I stuck the solenoids right up hard against the fogger as it eliminates any delay and surge, although it's a bitch to fit it. On top of that I had tried to hide it all with a 'polution' disguise. Using polution style rubber hose over the top of the braided lines (cut it down one side and press it on).

Won't sound lumpy at all, it idles like stock. Changing the cams depends on alot of things. If you are after low- midrange power then you can't do too much better than factory cams with adjustment to the exhaust cam timing. With any larger duration aftermarket cam you will lose some low rpm power but pick up midrange and top end. If you want a lumpy idle you can't go past rotational idle on an ecu like the autronic.

culodofsomke & The Mafia, On my old R33 gtst I ran the standard VCT intake cam and a HKS 264deg exhaust cam (biggest lift you can get without machine work). It's an excellent match, one of the guys on this forum ran it through the cam matching software, he uses at work (works at a camshaft manufacturer) before I went ahead and it worked out in real life just as planned. About 20hp up in average horsepower over the same stock setup and a faster& earlier turbo spool up to boot. Overcamming the intake side is something that is all too easy to do on a turbo motor. On the Rb25 the most help is needed on the exhaust side of things.

My engine has done 240,000kms or so. The timing and fuel is very conservative on the tune to look after the old motor. I haven't done a compression test to check things out yet. I guess I am happy enough that the engine is starting every morning with the number of kms on it. I have a feeling that the dumps are restricting it a little but, overall it's a very nice car to drive in. The power delivery is great and I also have a trust lightweight pulley kit and an electric fan replacing the pulley driven one to sharpen up the engine response a little.

10-11psi of boost. stock dumps, upgraded front pipe & exhaust.