rev210

for the record , thats an old wives tale.

Guys well done! Paul, I hate to say it but, the car gene can skip generations. My son I taught to change the oil, do the timing and spark plugs when he was 7. He's not really interested in cars at 12. Solution = have more kids -> now's not the time to consider that one tho'

I can't understand why everyone is not trying to help you get dressed up as a woman. Good on those great people from maroondah ! Why can't more people help you out, I say it's a discrace. Do they provide you with the clothing as well as help you get dressed?

I like the glass half full approach too. Keeps you trying. You may get the 1.5 60ft but, the car may also break every time you nail it. Thats the tragic facts of racing. I know of many who never got to thier goal times even though power and the moroso calculator were on thier side. The calculator also assumes that you are making that horse power at the track on the day and the time you race and people base this on some dyno they my have had 6 months ago. The dyno is again, another one of thos bits of paper with limited value in racing. So once again, until it's done a 10 flat it's not done 10 seconds flat.

The moroso calc. works ok.... for calculations. Until you drive the time in real life you got nuthin. If the moroso says 10 flat and you run 10.999 then 10.999 is what your car runs till you better it in the real world. Talk is cheap take it to the track.

I don't beat the crap out of cars I am going to buy. The reason is that there is completely no point. You can pick up all the issues you need without breaking the speed limit and wringing the neck of the car in question. If I was really keen on the power claims then getting the car to a dyno ,should it reach the short list, will not be a problem. My cars are usually insured with myself as the only nominated driver so test pilots are then under the pressure of break /prang = buy. Some people will want to thrash the car they are looking at however because thats the sort of numb nut they are on the road, so it's reasonable to expect them to do that or they are just ignorant of how to mechanically test a car for faults and think the redline test is some sort of usefull tool, or both. Unless you want to be selective with the buyer group you may have to live with this at least with a car like a skyline. When buying a car, an owner who thrashes the living hell out of the car and breaks the speed limit to 'show off' the cars potential sure makes you feel like the car's worth more doesn't it?

Adrian is only an exception to the norm due to his birth defects and tendancy to be a natural fithly ricer and a cheater. The bolting on of a nitrous kit to the average stock turbo/motor gtst and running 11's with supporting bits is not an exceptional feat at all. The only exception is that most of the skyline community don't understand how great nitrous is and what it can get you if your game is the odd 1/4 mile and mostly street driving every other day. A kit can be setup to be bolted on and off in 15min for a trip to the track. So you can have a stocker during the day and everything you like about that and then do the right thing legally and leave the foot down activity to the drag strip. When I sold my old bunky nitrous kit to Adrian I predicted he would run mid 11's once sorted at about the 100 shot mark or snick over. If anyone is keen to have a go they can basically expect the same results with the same approach. What I would like to see is a dedicated Nitrous skyline with a big ass 300+ hp direct port setup.

What he said. I have a little evo 1 (light gsr version, with built motor etc.) at the moment as a daily work car. That would probably lay the smack down to your uncles car on the drag strip and to rub it in returns better than 10L/100km around town not to mention it's abillity to stop, go around corners and start first time on a cold or hot day.

with no heat sheild + the pods = negative power. So no supprises there. It will feel particularly bad during traffic in summer too. You need a heat sheild + cold air feed to get the most out of those pods and get back the lost power.

don't buy one. If you are looking at $17k ones, as good as they may appear, they are all older cars that need maintenence including and not limited to engine refreshment. A healthy GTR is reasonably expensive to maintain relative to something like a gtst. GTR's are also not really a good car as a first car. They are too much to handle. BUT, I feel they are in this regard better than a rear wheel drive only gtst , especially in winter. It's your attitude to driving on the street that matters however. If you think blasting the car sideways on public roads or red light dragging people is cool , then best bet it to steer clear of any skyline.

Perhaps you are right...then there is this thread which is masculine with strong hetrosexual overtones.

I think you should both check out ; www.realultimatepower.net The only true power is NINJA . everything else is fake. This thread is sooo cool I saw a ninja totally flip out and kill twenty moderators !!! I feel like my brain capacity and IQ has just increased by 200% by reading this thread. I have never been so enlightened by internet wisdom before.

1 point is enough. I've not lost a single point for 7years and owned many a high performance car. If you keep driving the way you did to lose the points before you had just the 1 left , you are rooted. You seem to have lost them in an NA so that doesn't help your image here mate, you must have been driving like a retard. Best of luck.

This piece of toilet paper also seems to have shit on it.......interesting.

Sorry to hear. Learn your lesson this time and save yourself future pain and $$$ Instead as suggested go have a blast at the race track. Your car was born to do it and you will enjoy yourself far more than the ' Fast and the Furious-no skill street racing retards '

asstry

coppers are cheaper, work just as good.

only 312rwkw? weak.

I'd like to point out that my 'experience' with exedy clutches is vastly different to the 'opinions' you have taken on board. I tend not to stand by 'opinions' without some demonstrated experience to back it up. There could be plenty of reasons to bag out a brand. One that comes to mind is lower profit margins. At the end of the day the ORC is a great product, but no better than exedy for this blokes application . Just more expensive.

I see what you are saying but, there are degrees of severity of the condition. Whilst it's true that a small percentage end up at the pointy end of fatal stupidity, there are a good number saved by anti-stupid signage. Like all national health issues, we still need more money to fund signs to help the fatally stupid. Getting that money from the moderately stupid just makes so much sense, hence why we are introducing back of boot speed cameras. Radard detectors are actually also products designed to raise money for the fatally stupid. It's a little known fact that the companies making them donate the money raised to help fund research into cures for the fatally stupid. If you look inside the radar detector there is only a few components to drive flashing lights and a small speaker, they cost about 20c to make so lots of the profit can be donated. Radard detectors actually don't work but, stupid people think that they somehow alter the law for them when they switch them on. Poor stupid's.

I have been fortunate to have had an education in clutch selection many years ago. getting it right/wrong means alot to the whole nature of the driving experience. Exedy aren't crap. they are actually very good for his application. They represent good value. I've used a single plate exedy 9 puck ceramic on both a nitrous fed gtst (with a stock rated pressure plate) and I covered bucket loads of kms and a few other gtst's and a gtr. Quite a number of friends have run these on even 400rwhp+ GTR's with no issue. The good news is they also drive very similar to a stock clutch and last. ORC make great clutches for very high powered cars /race cars. But, they aren't great in the value for money stakes at this lower end of performance / power. They are double the price of an exedy easily. The key is to select the right clutch characteristics for the application. The clutch is best thought of like you would brakes in many ways. Friction plates have a selection of compounds to choose from with different heat properties etc.. One of the largest stuff ups people have is in selecting a pressure plate that is sprung higher than they need. The bedding in and road going operation of the clutch is also critical. For example, trying to ride a multi plate race clutch for a traffic light hill start will see it die very quickly which tells you something about where that style of clutch was meant to live. Race clutches are also designed for relatively short life spans between rebuilds compared to road setups. They are afterall best thought of as a consumable like brakes.

Speeding fines are also known as Stupid tax. we need to tax the stupid to pay for things like all those labels on desicants in electrical goods boxes that say " do not eat ". It's kinder to tax the stupid instead of letting them die from thier stupidity.

ASS tray LOL Someone photoshop the intercooler over the visor of the drivers helmet.

a long time ago I had an Rx2 that I used for pizza delivery. It was pretty good on fuel as I had tuned it well. Extend port 12A. Had a few rotors over time and as already mentioned they aren't for knuckle heads. They are really reliable if warmed up and treated right. This isn't expensive to do either. As a daily they are fine if you do your research and learn how to keep them.

for a stock car or even a pretty modded road car that clutch will totally suck. Avoid paddle puck style clutches like this. It' may have a sprung centre but, it's not going to have much of a friction point. Also the pressure plate is probably way over sprung. Again totally unnecessary. Go the excedy style 9 button sprung centre clutch with something similar to the stock pressure plate for a mild road car.