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Everything posted by ylwgtr2
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gary at sebastapool motor wreckers is the go....i have bought many front cuts from him
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not in that area but sam at on duty panels will do a fantastic job...93142647
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db1170 and db 1220 i think are the numbers for the pads....
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carbon stuff is lighter.....Also to those that say it doesnt stand up well,chop your head off ect.....what have you personally seen?I have seen many damaged panel and never seen anything like that happen....the nomex honeycomb holds them together and stops peices flying off..... and i assume that you know F1 chassis are made from this stuff so its very strong,although comparing a chassis to a body isnt and arguable thing...
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no the floor pan is the original one...it has been joined at the lower of the bulkhead(firewall) you can see it in the earlier pics
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Ok...now we have the new front on and welded...the next step is to change the 2WD chassis rails to 4WD ones....the first step is to drill the spot welds off to remove the existing chassis rails...the 1st pic shows the rail removed....the second pic shows the 4WD rail siting on a trolley jack being lined up...we then clamp it on with vice grips and get underneath the vehicle with a tremel gauge and check our underbody mesurements,this is done using the main rear diff cradle mount as a base "0" mesuring point....we then have a series 7 or so underbody mesurements that run from this "0" point toward the front ,each of them are at certain holes on your chassis rail (obviously running toward the front of the vehicle)Next time your under your car,have a look on the rails and see all these holes for yourself.I should have taken a pic of the tremel gauge,i can do it and add it in later.This is a Slide rule with a tape measure built into it as you slide the tape runs up...quite a handy little jigger.After we check the underbody measurements we can move the front rail foward or backward to get it within spec.If the old sealer left on the skirts lines up perfectly to the new rail and the measurements check out square this indicates a well thought out job prior to comencing.It turns out that i must have had my thinking cap on...it fitted perfect .The next pic shows the rail welded on and home...the next is of the right rail completed....the last pic shows the rail spot welds as seen from the inside of the vehicle... So now the rails are fitted next we will clean up the joins and place the seam sealer and insulation mats on the floor....should i keep going on posting the process or are people bored yet? Cheers
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they dont do the fronts....but the rears are the same as a BMW, or audi ...not sure which one....its some euro shitbox anyway...but dont buy them...i would suggest getting original ones or project U or something japanese....the other ones are crap
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just welded it back together today...only 3 pics....1st is thway we weld them back in the original spotwelds...the other two are of the rejoin in the sill panel...more tomorrow
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Hi phantom... i have two new chassis rail of which i will fit on monday or tuesday...
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heres my contribution to this thread......
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First Time Importing Parts, Customs help required.
ylwgtr2 replied to Cubes's topic in General Automotive Discussion
if you do that and get caught they get an independant evaluation on the goods then you pay that fee X 2 to get the goods then you may get fined x2 again,plus you will be black marked on the system....its safer just to play by the rules -
Its not really that difficult,Jig companies like car-O-liner ect supply underbody measurements on almost every model vehicle available.These measurements are from certain points on the underbody so before the job starts a quick measure is taken from these points and if it doesnt measure up,we pull the car about until it does or until the doors fit on right.Then we disect the vehicle as shown.Its all at factory seams so when its pulled apart at the same part on both vehicles,you cant really mess the job up.As far as the sills and A pillars go when one is cut apart the off cut is then placed on the other half as shown i one of the pics (you can see a factory produced elongated hole on the sill where the scuff panel goes, these are a great indicating tool for marking out)
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for those that are interested on the progress on the repair of my car http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/sh...?t=33588&page=2
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your talking volume tho right?however.....if an injector is open for X amount of time....it makes no diffrence how much volume is behind it...its the pressure that matters(I mean as long as your not emptying out your rail with HUGE injectors and a long time opening!)
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ok then....if you have standard computer standard injectors,standard reg.....how could changing the pump make a diffrence....unless the standard pump is knackered,cavitating i cant see why it would make a diffrence....and how can it give more pressure?????the reg controls the pressure....If you fill up the rail the reg cracks off and sends the rest back to the tank the only way to get more pressure is to restrict the return pipe...... And to add that what the 4door says is correct about suplying it a shitload of fuel...it would throw the reg up the shit....i would also assume that this would mean an irratic fuel supply
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in the 6th pic the bulkhead skin has taken quite a likeing to the original floor pan so in the 7th pic its screwed together to hold it in position while we check that the door gaps are true....in the 8th pic the doors are fitted and gaps are squared up ok....the next step is to weld it all back together and refit the sill strustual bars/sill panels....more on monday Cheers
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Ok so now that the vehicles front has been removed you can see the two main upper structure bars have been left intact.These two run all the way down to the upper hinge pillar and acts as the hinge support,as you can see in the 1st pic....In the second pic you can see the sill panel has been marked for the join on the outer skin....In the 3rd pic the front is lined up to mark the outer skin join of the A pillar....In the 4th pic the front is coupled in to the Upper strusture bars/hinge pillar supports and A pillar.Lock in A thanks eddie!;)The 5th pics shows the new fronts hinge pillar holes lining up with the dowl pin/threaded part for the door hinge...looks like my mesurements were up to scratch!
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dont bother changing your pump if your leaving the standard regulator in....
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lake mountain and the black spur are both ball tearers...oh and welcome
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Nothing really to be amazed at....there are heaps better tradesmen around then me!Ive seen some a mate of mine make a panel with his hands,a hammer and a bag of sand....its absolutely amazing to watch a guy like that...very rare these days.....now thats skill!
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ok cool...good to see some interest...i will be sectioning the vehicle tomorrow and shutting the door on the job will post some step by step pics tomorrow Cheers
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i dont have GT-T guards tho...i assume that you know that the guards off a GTR fit on GT-T 4 door and 2 door,i have gtr guards to fit on ofcourse.....only one pic today,its of the drivers side structual bar...quite interesting to see the drivers side has an extra peice in there over the passenger side!So if your going to crash...make sure theres no one in the passenger side!...hey how come no one has commented how cutshuts are unsafe blah blah blah?I thought someone would have something to say seeing as tho minesdatsun copped a caining...wheres my caining?