ylwgtr2

And before anyone asks...the sill has been cut short from the original join so we can retain the original joint line......the sill once welded will be filed to obtain a metal finish (no filler is used)

Ok then,heres some pics to start with...1st pic you can see the A pillar inner panel has been removed to access the main structual beam that runs from the rear windscreen all the way down the side of the vehicle and finishes at the front door hinges,This is where we undo the joints from the door hinge pillar and connect it to our new front.The next pick shows the lower sill panel being cut and the next one is the panel removed and and we cam see the side structual beam...in the next pic the side structual beam has been removed...our joint takes place in front of this part....the next pic is the floor spots are removed,this joint is at the very lower of the bulkhead....the LHS inner panel stays where it is just the bulkhead and the sill panel and the side strutual beam is removed...these joint are all staggered....the other pics are of the replacement front that has been prepared for joining (apart from the inner structual beam has not been removed yet) An interesting comparison between the two vehicles side structual beam..they are diffrent...as the blue front is not a GTR front,It has larger beams...interesting...more pics of the actuall separation on the vehicle tommorow....you will get a better idea on how it is going to work then Cheers

what are you look at paying for 2 front R34 brembo calipers?

yeah its proving to be quite an easy job...in fact i could do it with my eyes closed

anyone?

ummmm no....just undone all the floor,inner panels and intrusion panels on the new front...will post some pics of the progress and how its done if people are interested

hehehe here is my vacumm formed tail lamp surrounds...unfortunately when they were made i didnt take pics of the process.....ofcourse they are home made outta the shed ...i will be making the breather pipes on the valve cover next,but it will be a male mould so it wont have as much educational value ....look out for the valve and sparkplug cover post tho...it will be vac formed ....start bowing then

I am looking for an R33 gtr std airbox unit

thats real bad news....sorry to hear....people should really check the history of there cars out a bit better these days....not only for this matter but for theft also....i have recently notified the japanese registry board on a number of vehicles that have been imported here by dealers and they are "not right" call me a snitch but when things like this happen to people that are unaware of getting a vehicle checked properly before buying.....hope things work out for you

it may be the rear subframe to body mount....my 34 mad a sqweaking sound once...it was this...i pulled it apart and greased it....it went away

try this

clucking problem guide

DAMN!!!The paint picture is too large to attach!!Anyone got any ideas how to attach it?

Heres what i would be doing.....make a replacement top and bottom but put screws around it like my dodgy 5 minute paint picture shows ...that way you can change the spring...but use the original diaphram and push rod attachment.... very easy job...it regards to the time it takes you id say your being a bit anal if your talking about billing yourself for the time you spend on stuff.....i mean life is not a business...some of us like to play with our toys as a hobby...if your doing it for someone else...thats a diffrent story....i might try make a set later on tonight,if i have the material in the shed ...let you guys know how it goes

hey what about this bagging business thing????Please amend your post(not that i even know these people)Or can i start saying what i think about certain workshops?Actually this could be fun...

nah its cool...no need to appologize...no offence taken:) I am going dry sump for the solid oil supply reason....some may argue that a good standard type oil pump and a decent sump will be good enough and i am sure it will be....but i will get out of it cheaper going dry sump and theres other benefits apart from the original reason for going drysump drifta....I will be making my own set up As far as my DIY posts....you havent seen anything yet wait for the carbonfibre construction post....its coming

mine can be found here...http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/sh...ead.php?t=33588 hehehe but it will be all fixed by then

modified engine ok?

yes....whats wrong with that?Many circuit cars have dry sumps and dont even have a turbo and around the 500 horse power figure so i dont see why what size turbocharger i am using has anything to to with it at all......

i am thinking of building one of these gocarts.... the hydrogen peroxide gas turbine onehttp://www.meditech.ch/exoticthermoenginee.../indexete2.html

gtr are rear entry(greek) ....arent rb20 side entry?

i think Vspec also has the increments between 1000 rpm and 3000rpm closer on the rev tacho...this is assuming it has the original dash