ylwgtr2

i have made them in the past...i would be making them from stainless steel if i was you....steel rusts on the inside and the rust will end uo in your engine....

29th of the 4th month in the year 2004.....the engine was started

its possible to take out or put in from the top...but personally i dont like doing it that way....especially when you got new paint on the engine bay and fancy shit on the engine....its very easy to scratch going from the top......

well my pc has died and havent been able to load any pics up on the pc i am using but i have fitted the dash,engine and the front suspension....i ended up building up the engine/gearbox/ front suspension as a unit on the floor then lowering the body over it all.Check the link for the engine mods i have done...car shouldnt be to far away now....http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/sh...ead.php?t=34937

Wow.....the key and other stuff seems to have jumped to a more realistic price since this......http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/sh...highlight=omori Sorry couldnt help it

brooklyn

on duty panels....sam 93142647

try get the badge from nissan...i just bought a complete badge sent for my R34.....from memory i think the front badge was $90 odd dollars....the 34 ones are diffrent but the price should be about the same

$800 new from nissan

if its a 33.....remove the door rubber,and the screws are under there....but the rear 1/4 panel window will have to come out to get the seal around there to come off.....you have to cut the urethane out from the inside behind the rear wall panel trim so you have to remove this trim panel....personally....id just leave it like it is

you could aslo order it from nissan.....parts from nissan are not that expensive.....to give you an idea i got a quote for a used main engine cross member from a wreckers for a GTR it was 650 and from nissan it was 450 new...sometimes new is the way to go

i have 2 pods for a 33

the 2 i have are from my 34 Vspec...i went for 2530s

if you included markings it wouldve made my job easier!!!(being a slow typer!!)Anyway...here.... model part number Turbo type A/R Bnr32 14411-05U20 T3 0.42 Bnr32 nismo 14411-06U00 T04B 0.42 Bcnr33 14411-24U00-4 T3 0.42 Bcnr33 N1 14411-24U10 T3 0.42 Bnr34 14411-AA300 C100 053 Bnr34 N1 14411-aa401-3 C106 0.6 I have heaps more info....what else you want to know??I have 2 BNR34 turbos in the shed also

looks like a dodgy way of stiffening.....id rather weld the seams if i was doing that...i have factory spotwelds and maybe what you see is bolt holes?

Rivets????WTF????And you go to uni???What do they teach you there??The future looks scary when its in the hands of the youth of today!

hey aaron...well the aim is to get it back to factory specs,so we can only do our best.I have to say that sam would have to be one of the best tradesmen i have seen,he really has been given a gift....At this stage i think i will paint the car and block it down and get old golden hands to give it the final coat.Which car did you see?

you want GTR or GTS?

i crashed mine a couple of times ...so now i REALLY dont have money hahaha

now we apply drip check to the new chassis rails where they meet the skirts,this keeps the moisture out from the join...next we match the factory phosphate primer and spray some over the top of the skirts and drift it out over the upper support beam to match the original stuff.....then we mix up some colour with matting base added to it this is dull off the paint in the engine bay and give it a satin finish...the material is then applied,this takes quite a while to make sure every nook and cranny is covered and make sure not to get runs and a uniform finish....the inside of the cabin has also been fitted with deadner sheets and is also painted....now the hard work is over,its time for the fun stuff....lets start assembling!!!

i can do plastic welding pm me if you need Cheers

these were taken last year...the great man kazuyoshi hoshino holds a toast to his RB26 engine....

1st to whoever said jgtc 34 GTR isnt rb26 you are wrong....and wait for it......its 2WD

there not weak....you are not supposed to jack a car from the rails....they have jacking points...if you have to jack it on the rail the best spot is where the front rail overlaps the intermediate rail...use a jack with a rubber coated cup not the full steel one

underbody update....the rear section of the rail had been damaged due to jacking and the rear floor pan hasnt been planished up correctly after a previous repair so i ended up taking off the rear rail section and reshped it and re fitted it....then we re seam seal the underbody and spray it with a spatter gun to get the factory type sealer finish...then we match the factory grey undercoat and i have painted the underbody and misted the colour through the tunnel