ylwgtr2

yes daniel...its black...next week should be ok

i want to import one of these....oh hang on...we make the steaming pile of excrement!!turd shop

http://page5.auctions.yahoo.co.jp/jp/auction/e37299848

i have a pair of halogen lamps there for a 34

if not a mate of mine has one

any engine should be checked when changing cams....what lift are you using or planning to use?

oh out of curiousity what grind is the cams

1.Fisrt of all to be anal you would want to make sure the crank pulley is accurate(of which it will not be)To do this put a degree wheel on the front and line the "0" up to the original TDC mark,then get an old sparkplug with the guts taken out and a bolt welded in it(make sure it hangs out an inch or so)Put the piston down at BDC and screw the modded sparkplug in.Turn your engine clockwise untill the piston hits the plug.Write down the figure on the degree wheel,then go anticlockwise and write that figure down.Then after work out the half way point from the two figures you got and move the wheel to that point......Now you have your True TDC stamp the front pully with a chisel(however this possition may change after time,so i like to scribe the mark down onto the centre of the pulley and check it out now and then)My pulley was out about 3 degrees or so....I have never seen one thats right!With your cam timing,Did you fit them yourself?I would be checking the crank pulley first them set the thing on TDC and check the position of the cams in relation to the crank.who knows if what your showing on the wheels are accurate.....the thing could be a tooth out.....i would be checking that first that gives you some sort of starting point....I have learnt one thing NEVER TRUST ANYONE ELSES WORK!!!Not because its right or wrong...because you should never assume its right,it can give you a head Phuc and throw a spanner in your diagnosis work!In regards to fluids Transfer case=Dexron tranny fluid or for extra protection transmax z Gearbox=syntrax castrol gear oil castrol seems good in mine Diff=LSD oil

the paint has been applied to dry in most areas,too much thinners could have been put in the paint,it actually looks like acrylic paint.Most of it could be rectified by blocking down and buffing it up and the runs could be shaved off with a razorblade.The tape off lines cant be repaired without re painting.Paint with Orange peel can also be blocked down and buffed to a uniform finish.There are diffrent types of orange peel,yours is the dry type.Factory vehicles have a nice even peel running through them which is what you want to replicate when doing a repair.To get a true dead glassy look the car needs to be flow coated,check my post on vehicles repair for this process,or to get a flat smooth look rub down with 1200 and buff back but this looks a little too "false" for my liking.Too large air cap and nozzle set will cause exccesive coarse peel on 2K products due to the material hasnt had much air added to it and in no way can atomize correctly.Large caps and nozzles are for acrylic and hi fills....oh and a crap operator will also get excessive orange peel...sorry to crap on

you dont need the consult machine to find it....i had an airbag problem that consult couldnt detect....run the on board check and back probe the wires in the system.

Hey we been drifting our crappy old HQ's for years And funky...your just dirty coz your NA wont pull grandma off grandpa let alone a drift

do a diagnosis check....the plug on the 34 is in the panel below the steering column

I am aware of that.....It annoys me coz i make my money in japan and when people go around quoteing these prices then people ask me for that kind of stuff and i quote them the true price and they think i am trying to rort them.... anyway.... who wants to go to the dyno???

its in the kick panel on the 33

heres some more pics of the car.....as you can see its all one colour now.Whats happened is the panels have been painted off the car.Then the vehicles body was painted with the door openings in one shot,this lets us eliminate the tape off mark inside the door jam.In the picture the panels have been fitted and the door gaps adjusted next the doors and the bonnet will come off and the body will be rubbed down with 1200 sandpaper the same as you can see the door and the gaurd have been done.The vehicles body will be painted with the same 2K solid colour that has already been applied.This process is called flow coating.The advantages are the colour has a base thats the same colour so we dont have to worry about covering the vehicle anymore,we concentrate on getting the material to sit nice and flat,but you have to be extremely carefull not to get runs as painting over a 1200 sanded surface is like painting over glass.Its also gives the paint the thick glassy look.The doors will be hung up on stands as they sit on the vehicle and flowcoated the same way.I have painted the vehicle the first time but i will get sam from Onduty panels to flowcoat it as its been 12 mnths since i flow coated a car and sammy does them all the time so he wont **** it up! the guy is truly amazing

yeah i seen that thins ad...i though it was a 34 GTR too

hi daniel,i could help you out i guess.....providing the somone who you been talking to about the kit isnt to far from me ....as far as the car is going its been a bit slow lately as sammy at the panel shop has been busy with some full repaints so getting some oven time has been a bit a bit of a struggle,but i managed to sneak in there the other night and paint the body shell and i have done all the panels and parts seperatly over the last couple of weeks so its all in one colour now so its looking more like a car now..it would be good to get this match up stuff organised while i have the bumpers off my car coz they are a bit of a headache to take off

skyline akt has one...he is in melb

sam at onduty panels in brooklyn is great for repairs and paintwork.A few members on this forum can back me up on his work.

I will take ten at that price....providing they have a legal engine number

neil at bob binks ford in footscray......i bought the VSPEC sticker for my rear bumper from him for about 20 bucks i think.....just buy the genuine one i reckon the sign writers ones look sheet

hmmm the air still needs to come from somewhere and its through the afm so i am assumeing the thing should still run....

i have popped a 4WD fuse in my car and i had only 2WD at the time.....after i replaced thye fuse the car seemed ok....however i dont know if there is any adverse effect from extensive use of the vehicle with this fuse removed or blown...i have also done the same with a 33 GTR that i had quite some time ago

not past the air flow meter...

that wont lean off anything.....