ylwgtr2

could have been anything.......its too vague to just guess what it was.....to many components and each one upsets the other so it would be just a guess other than a diagnosis without seeing the vehicle

you have already asked this question......under the old system the vehicles were given a completely new vin as opposed to just adding a 6 or so digits to the japanese number to make it 17 digits(like the later system prior to RAWS) so they dont match the green tag at all....earlier vehicles had an engraved tag rivitted to the bulk head.....the panel with the original vin unspots separetly from the lower half of the bulk head anyway...so changing that section is not an issue.....For an example an EF-EL falcon has the Vin on the rear half of the left hand skirt....Its in a very vulnerable position and i have seen vehicles getting new left hand skirts being fitted and this section must be removed to refit on the new skirt....i only wonder about BA falcons,they have a sticker for a compliance plate on the right hand skirt that cannot be removed or unspotted so i would assume that if you had to repair one of these,you would be in strife....Why all the interest in vin numbers???

whats your problem?????I posted that ian pointed out that the codes are different...and i was being a civilized person by at least answering you post....fkn jerk...

yeah its still a goer...but after its all been painted dude...still havent done the parts...i owe you an appology on that!I been so busy these days

cheers prank.... yeah its taken some work...

update car has been painted...tonight all the fittings will be done ...oh and i also got a new shiny powerpipe and silencer for my bike!!Its got tonnes of grunt now damn sik of gettine rained on from riding it everywhere tho...be glad to get the car going again...not long now!

will do the above swap...pm me if you still need

if you have the motor and the blades the shroud is only just over 100 new from nissan

In light that BNR34 and ER34 codes are not the same theres probably no need in posting them....

hmmm i would have to disagree with you on that one ian,and agree at the same time.....BNR34(GTR) code 46 Is definately an ABS code.....I understand that he has a ER34(GT-T) thats why i stated BNR and not ER....I posted the info as a guide as ER and BNR "may" be the same....Although i shouldve posted that part!!72 is the BNR 34 TPS code

its actually for a 32 gtr

I have a 320klm nismo speedo head for an R32 in the box $350 no offers Cheers

:headspin:

just an idea....you could use a 34 crank sensor or modify the 33 one to suit....i have 33 cams in my 34 by moding the cas

the bypass air controll valve,its under the inlet manifold.It has an idle adjustment on it...you should be adjusting from there!What you might have to do is take it off and have a look on the side of the valve there is a hole that has been glued up from factory.This is the parts where they fit the spring in to hold the valve closed then they fit a screw in there and glued the door closed.....i have found that this spring looses its tension over the years so the go is to get all the glue out,give the screw a few more rotations(its not screwed all the way in from the factory,so there is a bit of life left in it)then re araldite the screw hole closed....simple

I cut and pasted this from another thread that i contributed to....could be use ful just to make sure you get the pulley in the right spot,and ofcourse to fix those people up that think the pulley cant move or be out of position First of all to be anal you would want to make sure the crank pulley is accurate(of which it will not be)To do this put a degree wheel on the front and line the "0" up to the original TDC mark,then get an old sparkplug with the guts taken out and a bolt welded in it(make sure it hangs out an inch or so)Put the piston down at BDC and screw the modded sparkplug in.Turn your engine clockwise untill the piston hits the plug.Write down the figure on the degree wheel,then go anticlockwise and write that figure down.Then after work out the half way point from the two figures you got and move the wheel to that point......Now you have your True TDC stamp the front pully with a chisel(however this possition may change after time,so i like to scribe the mark down onto the centre of the pulley and check it out now and then)My pulley was out about 3 degrees or so....I have never seen one thats right!

whos gunna check the history on a vehicle???How are you gunna know if its been banged up?????coz of an auction house???hehehe they make me laugh...do you know how many vehicles i have repaired in japan and the owners have sent them to the auctions and i have seen a non accident history on them........plenty.....I have also seen a so called non accident vehicle that has had an obvious rail replacement....i hate to burst anyones bubble but a vehicle in aust without previuos damage is almost non exsistant

H01 is when the GTR was released.....

genuine pump is under $100 from memory

was it a straight fit or engine swap?I assume he has adjusted the tps correctly?

thankyou kane for a straight forward transaction....and most importantly no silly questions,insulting offers and a no BS sale SOLD

thank you jag....my point excactly

last bump before i use it as a door stop....

tee it into the plenum somewhere....

the connector is there.....the carmen thing wouldnt pick up all the codes on my car....i rectified mt problems with the onboard diagnosis system